Noble Sanctuary: Haram al-Sharif

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I lived in West Jerusalem for the past three weeks and visited the Old City at least a dozen times; yet, there’s so much I still need to see! Jerusalem is many things—beautiful, frustrating, magical, mysterious, tense—but one thing that it’s not, is dull. I can walk around the city every day and still be overwhelmed by its labyrinth-like alleys (which, by the way, rarely have signs).

I tried finding a place in East Jerusalem but became mesmerized by the Palestinian town of Ramallah before I could. Now I have to go through the gruesome Qalandia checkpoint every time I travel between Ramallah and Jerusalem—a 10-mile distance that can take over an hour (and hoursss if it’s Friday) to cross. Going from Israel into the occupied territories is easy, but the other way around can take a really long time.

As you’ll see from the pictures, the Haram al-Sharif (also called the Temple Mount) takes you across eras with its stone blocks, tiles, arches, and domes. The most beautiful time to go, I think, is right before the evening prayer, as the sun is setting (perfect for photography!) and there are few visitors in the compound. I love the stillness. I just want to take a book and read there every day. Worshippers will pour in as soon as the call to prayer starts.

Access to the compound is restricted. I think non-Muslims can only go during certain hours in the morning, if at all. And el-Aqsa Mosque is completely off-limits to non-Muslims. Seriously, going to the mosque was the first time that being Muslim helped me get through security! I felt so VIP.

Actually, I had to prove I was Muslim the first time I visited Haram al-Sharif. My name sounded confusing, I didn’t speak Arabic, and my hijab was a bit pathetic looking—with my scarf falling off every two seconds. Naturally, I was suspect. The compound’s security guards were Israelis so they had no way of testing me, but they brought a Muslim guard (or compound caretaker) to ask me questions. Mind you I have not prayed since I was in elementary school—over 10 years ago—and basically only remember two verses from the Qur’an. So when the guard told me to recite the Qur’an I just busted out those two verses. Since my horrible accent didn’t quite convince him, he also had me explain how Muslims prepare for prayer. Thankfully, that was easy: they gotta wash up! So I was let in reluctantly and given a big white skirt to wear. Totally worth it.

Next week, I’m going on a Haram al-Sharif tour organized by al-Quds University’s Center for Jerusalem Studies, which gives tours from a Palestinian perspective. I’ll surely come back with interesting historical factoids for the next blog.

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Photos

Leading down to The Rock
The Rock is believed to be where Abraham was asked to sacrifice his son Isaac and where Muhammad left on his night journey.

Comments

[Jeannie]

Love your safarlog, Semi
thanks for your impressions of the places you are visiting. I particularly enjoyed your tour of Nazareth since that's where my Dad is from originally. Jerusalem is magical -- even more so in these holy days. Keep those posts coming. Love it! and maybe soon one or two in Arabic? bawsat.

[semira]

Merci Jeannie joon. I've been posting my pictures on Facebook recently but an Egypt blog is coming--enshallah! Nazareth is one place I really wish I could have stayed longer. Next time :)