Blogs from Sweden, Europe - page 16

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Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 4th 2018

There was no way but to go slowly this morning. The S:t Olavsleden route was constrained between the lake shore and the railway line. These, I assume, are relatively level, but the path through the forest managed to climb and fall, twist and turn, and generally present as convoluted a way as possible to proceed. While it might have been technically difficult, it was also quite wonderful to be well away from the main road for a change. Trains did disrupt the quiet, but never for long. Although the road was closer in the afternoon, and had to be walked on for some short stretches, most of the time was on forest path and gravel roads. I had arranged to stay with the Martinsson family, in Rita's studio by the lake. What a pleasure this was. ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 3rd 2018

Revsunds prästgärd is run by Rueben, a Dutchman who was involved in creating the S:t Olavsleden route from the many individual routes that came together and linked up. The signage alone is clearly a massive undertaking, with everything from small 20mm or so square tiles on stakes, through 50mm or so signs on a variety of square and oblong red painted timber boards and hung, nailed, screwed and strapped to posts, trees etc, and finally big welcome signs at various county and local government boundaries. Revsunds is also a meeting place where several of the St Olav routes meet in Sweden before heading off again in different ways to Trondheim. So I put in a pretty big day to get here from Mordviken (Murder Bay). Most of the morning was spent on quiet roads and forest ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 2nd 2018

This day didn't start that auspiciously. The route stayed on roads of one form or another until after Bräcke, and it appears that I walked past an opportunity to collect a pilgrim stamp. What made up for that was staying at Eriksberg Gärden, run in a most relaxed manner by Tord. He is in the process of restoring a building that would once have been house, horse stables and cattle barn all rolled into one. He also presented a very nice piece of fish for the main course of our evening meal followed by a combination of wild and cultivated strawberries we collected from Tord's garden. Afterwards, Tord invited me to go with him while he helped a neighbour set his fishing nets. We were collected, and drove down to where this 81 year-old moors his ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County » Bräcke July 1st 2018

There were no bears Just before i left, Miriam, who helps run Täljegården, warned me that if I should meet a bear today, I should sing to it. While I was prepared to treat this as a practical joke, it was said so seriously that it made me wonder what I might choose to sing. At which point I realized that I barely knew snippets of anything but the Australian National Anthem, and I didn't quite know how 'whose lands are girt by sea' would work on a bear intent on girting me. Sometimes, things like that can stay with you the whole day! Avoiding the Main Road There are times when staying off the E14, the highway the St Olavsleden generally follows in Sweden, isn't a walk by the river, but rather a long, continuous ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County June 30th 2018

Getting ready for Sunday The lovely chileana whose place I stayed at last night reminded me that it was unusual for shops to open on Sundays, so I would need to make any food purchases before leaving Fränsta. This meant waiting for the ICA down the road to open at 0900. So it was another late start, and by the time I had done a couple of circuits of the aisles, etc trying to find things, it was really getting on. A pleasant river walk For much of the morning, the path stayed close to the river. Trail conditions varied from level path well padded with pine needles and leaf litter, to ankle and knee threatening bare rocks and twisted exposed trre roots. Later in the morning it was a return to the gris àvagen - ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County » Sundsvall June 29th 2018

Fellow Pilgrims There was a mother and daughter with their two dogs in an adjacent cabin, and the mother came over to see if I was walking to Trondheim. She told me they had been, but the older of the dogs was not coping with the distances required each day. Her choices seemed to turn on getting the dog to a vet, and finding a cheap car so they could continue together in that. I wasn't sure what to think about their predicament, or even whether my thinking about it would add any value, so I put it out of my mind. Ruins, Roads and not much Path The breeze was up enough as I was getting ready to set out to give the vest another try just to keep the wind off my upper body. ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County » Sundsvall June 28th 2018

Getting an Earlier Start My morning routine clearly needs some work, because I still wasn't away until 0925, with just as far to walk as yesterday. Most of the day was spent on a gravel road through forest next to a lake with occasional small farms or farming hamlets. If there was a highlight, it was find a lunch spot in front of a farmhouse with a great view over Stodesjon, the lake beside which I had been walking. My only company was to have a chat with a family group out cycling. We passed each other three times, only because I passed them picnicking at a sandy spot they had found at the side of the road. And then the rain came Sometime near Gålviken, it started to rain. Not heavily, but enough to put ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västernorrland County » Sundsvall June 27th 2018

Getting things ready to go I suppose Sundsvall won't be much different from other Swedish towns in that most of the places I thoght I needed to get things done didn't open until 10 am, and in one case, not until 11 am. So it was a bonus to be directed to the post office to send a parcel to Elaine to meet her in Trondheim, after being initially misdirected to a newsagent. There I was able to post my parcel, get a pay-as-you-go SIM and meet a nice Swedish woman who had spent a little time a bit more than a little while ago helping muster cattle in the Kosciosko high country. After buying some provisions for the day, I wanted to get my pilgrim passport stamped in Sundsvall, but the place that could do ... read more

Europe » Sweden » Västra Götaland County » Gothenburg June 27th 2018

June 23 we flew from Venice to Gothenburg via Brussels, and were met by Wayne's second cousin, Anders, about noon. He drove us the approximately two hours to Stromstad, a pretty seaside town on the west coast. Along the way we stopped by a roadside cafe for some Swedish fast food: a smoked salmon plate and a shrimp salad. If you don't like seafood, you may be unhappy in Sweden, because it turned out that we ate shrimp and lox at every meal with Anders's family. We enjoyed it, especially one "torta" (cake) made with a dark bread crust topped with shrimp, egg, and salmon in a cream cheese sauce. Anyhow, back in Stromstad we met Anders's wife, Monika, and two children, ages 7 and 4. We all got into their small outboard boat for the ... read more
Anders and Wayne load the boat
The cottage on Oddo
View from the front lawn

Europe » Sweden » Jämtland County June 23rd 2018

We were getting ready to leave Sweden for Norway. Norway is not in the EU. We had found out Jeffrey needed a tape worm treatment between 1 and 5 days before entering Norway. The nearest vet to where we were was 150 miles away so it needed some planning. We went to Ostersund and a very nice vet gave Jeffery his pill in a piece of meat. After paying the bill we were now able to cross. The book talked of avoiding busy times at the border as you will have to queue. Lots of Norwegians shop, particularly alcohol, in Sweden as it is cheaper. On Thursday we set off for the border. We suddenly realised we had not got the passports out of the safe so stopped in a layby and got them ready. All ... read more
Swedish border




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