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Published: September 9th 2017
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We left Santo Domingo de Calzadas just after 7am, heading towards Granon for breakfast. Just as we were heading uphill, as usual for most Spanish towns, it started to rain lightly. Some pilgrims in front of stopped to cover there packs and/or put on their ponchos. Since I already had my raincoat on, I kept going, anxious to get some breakfast and hot coffee. We stopped at the Bar My Way (cool that they used the same name ad I am for this trip), and tried to stay dry while we ate breakfast and rested. I didn't think to take my shoes off, but I did cover my backpack, opened the hood on my lightweight raincoat, and removed the bottom legs of my pants. By the time we were ready to go, it had stopped raining and didn't really rain the rest of the way.
We walked to the edge of town before Raresh realized he'd forgotten his walking sticks, so we waited there, cautioning fellow pilgrims about taking the somewhat muddy shortcut instead of the dry curve it cut across. Oh, I gorgot to mention that we are now 5, with myself, Raresh, Juan from Spain, a young Dutch
guy, and a young lady he was travelling with. Soon after we left Granon, we encountered a neat sign telling us we were entering the province of Castilla y Leon, with a decent map of the Camino. Check out the photo.
We passed through the little towns of Redecilla del Camino and Castildelgado before we reached Vilorio del Rioja where took a short coffee break. This time we stopped at an albergue and rest stop called Parada Vilorio that only takes donations. The coffee wasn't very hot, but much appreciated. We also got another stamp for our pilgrim passport or credential. We walked the last 8 kilometers to Belorado, passing through the town of Villamayor del Rio. We had called ahead to reserve 5 beds at the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, so we quickly checked in and stowed our gear as usual. We had picked this albergue because it had been recommended and, had a swimming pool. Unfortunately it had started out cold and still hasn't warmed up much here.
Cuatro Cantones is a decent albergue, but I don't think it is all that special. They do have blankets, and each bunk has its own outlet with a little
shelf. For about 20 of us, there are 2 showers and one toilet for each sex. They have their own restaurant, but I try not to spend too much for my meals. I went out, alone this time since Raresh was going to wait until 5pm and share the meal the young lady is going to fix. I told him I was hungry now and didn't want to wait until 5 or eat again that soon. I wandered around the town, looking for a thimble again, and a bar that served tapas. This time I scored on both counts. I bought a metal thimble of an elephant with the Belorado shield on it, and inside a bar (where it was warm) called Bar Cafe Acha. I ate a large croqueta and a giant egg with tuna salad, and drank a coke. Not sure right now whether I will share in the other's communal dinner, a bit later, or find something at a supermarket again.
I ended up going to a supermarket and picked out an interesting microwavable dish and a fruit dessert. Tomorrow we head for San Juan de Ortega, about 24 kilometers ahead and our last stage before
Burgos. The local weather forecast looks clear, and I hope it warms up too.
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