June 28 2014 Bovec - Vrsic Pass - Kranjska Gora

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The day started as usual with a game of hunt the spoon. However, I'm on to them now and soon discovered the stash. Bikes were loaded and we posed for the "before" photo. Today was going to be a tough one as it involved crossing the Vrsic Pass which is the highest road in Slovenia at 1611m or bloody high in imperial measurements (5285 feet and 5 inch). The route started ok but after just a short distance it became undulating. The ups were steep and the downs heartbreaking as it meant we were giving up valuable height gain.
We reached the turn off to the Vrsic Psss which looked innocent enough but we reckon should have some sort of warning on it like "caution do not proceed if your thighs are not made of steel" or "bring your own oxygen". Shortly after this we reached a Russian Austrian and Italian cemetery from WW1. Remains of all soldiers had been relocated to here. The undulations continued for the next 20 kms until we reached Trente. Along the way we met a group of young Polish cyclists who were heading in the same direction. They were on their last day of their trip. The climb proper doesn't start apparently until Trente which staggers me as I was trying to get air in my inadequate lungs right from Bovec. In my disorientated haze I remember Gus talking about his burning thighs. We would stop from time to time to have a look at the view which was code for "take a break cos I'm going to pass out". On reaching Trente we started the climb. A sign indicated that we had 10 kms to get to the top of a 14% incline. A second sign also indicated that we were at number 48 of 50+ switchbacks. Only 47 to go. The road had numerous turns in it but only the 180 turns were counted in the switchback count. We watched these signs countdown like hawks but the problem was by the time we reached the following sign we'd forgotten the previous number.
There was no doubt that we'd get to the top but the question was in what condition would our minds and bodies be in. Turn after turn, sign after sign. The countdown was agonisingly slow. About 1.5 kms from the top it started to pour down. The temperature had dropped significantly but we still had a sense of humour. (I twas even whistling). We stopped just short of the top to take photos of the snow and change into dry clothes as my first jumper was soaked with sweat and I was getting a chill due the drop in temperature. We'd set off in a temperature of 26c and now we were above the snow line. The wind was howling and any chickens would have laid the same egg twice.
Following a ritual photo at the summit we started to ride down. Road conditions weren't the best (see photo). The road was built by over 10,000 Russian prisoners of war during WW1. Massive effort. It was built for military purposes in 1915. During the building of it over 300 were. killed in an avalanche. A memorial was built to honour those killed. (See photo). During the decent traffic was brought to a standstill by wandering cows complete with bells. Lol.
The 10 km decent was welcome as was the increase in temperature. Once in Kranjska Gora we booked in to a local hostel for a well earned shower.
A big day for both Gus and I. The Vrsic Pass is classed on a number of sites as a climb revered by professional cyclist. We were passed by a number of these guys pedalling light weight space aged bikes and all of them took the time to give a few words of encouragement to the two old farts who were carrying 15 kgs of gear. The camaraderie at the top amongst all riders was great. The car and bus drivers were also great and passed with great care even though we had held them up.
I didn't want to bang on about the difficulty in getting to the top but let's say that it was challenging. Not really a day of funny stories but a good day all the same. The only half funny story was whenever we book into a hostel we seem to get the top floor as a cruel joke. We just staggered upstairs whilst eagerly clutching the internet password. I get out my ipad to log on and whilst struggling to get better reception from the balcony the bloody paper with the password on it blew out of my hand and into the street. Not funny at all!! I walked down the stairs like an alien to search the street for the said password.

Where I stayed

Hotel Mangart - Mala vas 107, Bovec, Slovenia

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