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Europe » Serbia » West » Belgrade » Zemun October 16th 2023

I generally do not like travel articles like this. Frenz Hub lists twelve European countries that are ranked bad to worst. I have visited a few. Frenz Hub: Despite the allure of Transylvania, Romania is plagued by poverty and corruption. It has much work to do to make it a more attractive destination. A Romanian politician, Traian Basescu emphasized, “There is no such thing as several Romanias, but only politicians who divide Romania depending on the interests of their parties and their clout.” Granted, I was staying with great American friends, Dirty Pat and Mrs. Pat while visiting. They are quick to learn the local customs and rules, so it made my trip quite enjoyable. We dined at some of the best places, visited the famous Bran Castle (aka Dracula's Castle), and met some interesting local ... read more
Moldova
Belgrade at night

Europe » Serbia » North September 18th 2023

The Belgarde I saw in 2019 was grey , cold and rainy . The people we encountered seemed withdrawn , almost sullen . What a difference sunshine makes ! As it was Sunday morning our breakfast began with mimosas and Lox with cream cheese on a bagel . VERY good . Then it was our usual wide variety of choices and the morning special of cream cheese filled crepes with a hot fruit sauce . As I have said we are spoiled . We then got on a bus for a tour of the city . It is a beautiful city of , I think 2.3 M people . There are many architectural styles some buildings hundreds of years old . Mind you it has been under siege many times over the years and there is ... read more

Europe » Serbia » South September 8th 2023

We left our salubrious 2 level 3 bedroom apartment in Nis just after 8am. Apartments suit us well. They give us plenty of room to spread out, and if we're lucky, we each get a bedroom to ourselves. Our destination today is Pirot, some 68kms away with two significant climbs included. As is normally the case, it's slow going winding our way out of a big city. We've only covered 12kms in our first hour of riding. While it's been flat, we've noticed a bit of head wind today. There's no denying today's ride was all about the climbs. Individually, neither of them are too fearsome, but with two back to back and with over 3,600kms in the legs, we didn't know how much of a factor fatigue would be. For those that ride and climb ... read more
A steep Climb
Tom cruising by
Mountain Views

Europe » Serbia » South » Nis September 7th 2023

Just a short (and solemn) blog post today as we actually did something quite unusual for most of our rest day - we rested. We did visit two historical sites from WWII that are related in the most horrific manner. You see the Nazi's turned the Kings Army Barracks and surrounding buildings here in Nis into a concentration camp. It was mainly used for short term detention of prisoners before being relocated somewhere else as forced labour, unless of course they were executed instead. While some executions were carried out in the camp, most were taken to Bubanj a few kilometers away where they were executed and placed in mass graves. The concentration camp is mainly untouched from the end of WWII and is now a museum in honour of those that were imprisoned and murdered ... read more
Front gates of the camp
Bubanj Memorial Park

Europe » Serbia » South » Nis September 6th 2023

Our Fairy Godmother brought over a dish with a dozen fries eggs and an ice cream container full of long syrupy sweet donut type things right on 7pm. We combined that with the home grown vegies and left over sausages from lunch and we had quite a feast for dinner. I can't say I've ever had fried eggs as the main component of dinner but it seemed to work. We used the cold meats and cheese in the fridge with the extra bread and made up rolls for lunch. We had effectively gotten 4 meals provided free of charge so we decided to leave a very sizeable tip for our host thanking her for her generosity. Due to our short distance today we slept with no alarm. A lazy riding morning is a luxury we haven't ... read more
The River Valley
The mountains closing in
Along the route

Europe » Serbia » East September 5th 2023

We had an early breakfast and were able to get away by 8:00am. A good distance today of 63kms, right in our sweet spot. We left the chaotic drivers of Jagodina behind and on to the same side road we were on yesterday. Again, mostly local traffic, but it does get a bit busier in the small towns we go through. We had another tail wind today which make the riding all the more easier. We have been making much better time than previously with it's help. The morning is mostly uninspiring again, not much to see up close but we can see the surrounding hills coming into focus, one of which we need to climb. By our morning break we have covered 40kms, just 23kms to go and we are at the base of today's ... read more
Tom powering up the hill
Views from the top
Views from the top

Europe » Serbia » East September 4th 2023

We had to delay dinner for a while as the heavens opened just as we were about to leave. There was plenty of thunder and lightening to accompany the rain as well. Dinner was Italian. Jeff and Tom ordered medium pizzas that would have had to be 45cm in diameter and there was a size bigger than that! I settled for the Chef's Burger which was delicious. (And yes, Tom finished his and Jeff battled manfully leaving one piece which he took away in a doggy bag). We left at 7:30am today as we had 89kms to travel. Getting out of Smederevo required concentration as the traffic was very busy and the drivers quite aggressive. We were on a side road to the main highway going south, so while there was traffic, once we got out ... read more
End of the re-sealing works
Greek Orthodox Church in Jagodina
Inside the church

Europe » Serbia » East » Smederevo September 3rd 2023

Our last day on the Danube and as has been the case for the last week, even though we've ridden by the Danube we rarely saw it. A bit sad really. To leave today, we had to ride our way across the very big city of Belgrade. It was mostly up the side of a very big hill. We had climbed a good way before descending to cross the bridge over the Danube and I pulled over nervously looking ahead. It looked like a freeway entrance to the bridge. I thought maybe I had routed as a car instead of a bike, but no, we were meant to ride on the bridge with all of that traffic. We nervously entered and then just rode as fast as we could across the bridge which was almost two ... read more
Medieval Fortified City in Smederevo
Medieval Fortified City in Smederevo
This was the kings section.

Europe » Serbia » West » Belgrade September 3rd 2023

We sailed out of Budapest on Wednesday, August 30th. On Thursday morning we arrived in Kalocsa, still in Hungary. Here we first went to the Assumption Cathedral where we admired the church but had an organ concert which was superb. Then we walked around the local area before boarding buses which took us to the area called the Putza. This contains the Plains of Hungary which are the flat agricultural land which grow corn, paprika and other crops essential for feeding both people and animals. Our next destination was a horse farm where we had a great show of horsemanship from a range of horsemen and carriage drivers. The whip cracking riders welcomed us as we drove in and we were then given a welcome drink of local brandy and bread with paprika. Then we settled ... read more
Inside the church
Kalocsa
Horseman welcoming the bus

Europe » Serbia » West » Belgrade September 2nd 2023

It was good to get a bit of a sleep in this morning, the cumulative effect of the virtually continuous riding is starting to take it's toll, well on me anyway. We then get a rest day and while you know you need some rest you really can't give up the chance to explore a city you may never see again. The plan for today was to go on a guided walking tour and confirm our route through to the end of the trip. Serbia has a long and tumultuous history. My knowledge of the Balkans is very poor and is obviously coloured by the reporting we get in the west. Today our guide took us on a journey through Serbia's chequered history. We were told that Serbia has been to war 114 times and that ... read more
Serbian seat of Parliament
Inside St Marks Church
Bombings in 1999




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