After an arduous hike last night through Mainz to the Stefanskirche, which seemed to me to be in a rather unsavory neighborhood, I decided it would not be practical to attend Mass in the morning before my action-packed day of travel. This may have been a poor choice, because after weeks of hot and blindingly sunny weather, for my Sunday morning Rhine cruise I got thick cloud cover and haze. Ugly cruising weather, ugly photography weather. Nevertheless, I did cruise the most scenic part of the Rhine between Bingen and Koblenz, where there really is a castle (or ruin) at every one of the many bends in the river, and every quaint half-timbered little town has at least one huge, majestic cathedral towering over it. Amusingly, our little ship, which originates in Rüdesheim, was packed from
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