Today we challenge the mountain on horseback. We had breakfast at the alburgue, one of the few to offer cereal as a choice, and packed our bags to be transported to Triacastella. All three packs go today as you are not meant to take them on the horses. We gathered at El Paso, Victor's place, while he fed and prepared our mounts. Mine was a fine looking white mare, placid and well versed in the route. These horses knew their way and could pick a path through the sometimes rocky steep path. Victor walked ( that gives you an idea of our speed) and met a friend half way up who helped him lead the horses back down the mountain at great speed, riding and leading one each. We were momentarily the kings of the mountain ... read more

Today we rose early, skipped breakfast and headed to Ponferrada, in the dark, with headlamps glowing. It was a suburban walk through housing ranging from fairly urban to very upmarket. Ponferrada is known for its gold, silver and coal assets, as well as being the location of a large nuclear power plant. Walking through town was quiet and the only people around were fellow travellers or locals out early with their little dogs, encouraging them to do what they can't do in the appartment. We saw the ancient castle with the remains of a moat and the cathedral but decided to just pass through to get a few kilometres up before it became too hot. We met an Australian couple, Ray and Lynn from Port Macquarie, who were doing the Camino from Pamplona. Lynn was having ... read more

Up early and had breakfast at a bar near the cathedral. We walked out in poor light and had our new ponchos on as it was raining. They seem to work well But at the edge of town we found a spot to take off a layer as they tend to keep the heat in. The first 6kms were pretty uneventful and the paths were very good. Some of the path was on the road and every time a vehicle passed we had to turn our backs to it or get a free shower. The road turned to gravel and a trail of walkers braved the wind and rain. The scent of pine forests followed us most of the way and brightened up an otherwise damp day. At Murias de Rechivaldo we had a coffee and ... read more

Today we rose early, enjoyed the buffet breakfast at Regia Posada, fastened the bagpacks on for the first time in a few days, and wandered down to the bus depot to set Sue on her way on the bus to Marzarife. Tim and I left the Depot at 9.30 am and found the pilgrim trail out of Leon. We spent quite some time walking through suburbia and the industrial fringe of Leon before making a well concealed left turn down a muddy track in order to leave the main road and pass through country villages instead of hiking along the main road. It was overcast and drizzling rain most of the time but we set a pace and stuck to it. We walked through mud, rocky roads and along a few tarred roads so we had ... read more

We left at daybreak today hoping to get to Carrion by 1pm. A quick cafe con leche and a shared pastry set us up for the walk and before long we had crossed two freeways and were setting a good pace along a good track next to the main road to Carrion. As we entered the village of Poblacion de Campos we decided to have a break as feet problems were potentially going to slow us up and maybe cause bigger issues down the track. As much as we really wanted to walk every stage, after Carrion we need to have a break and let injuries ( which now include raw blisters, sorry if you're eating) heal and get some better shoes for Sue. The shoes she has were fine at first, were well broken in, ... read more