Day 19, 20, 12-13th October 2014: R and R, Leon, Spain

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Well today we tested the Spanish rail system. It's cheaper than at home, more efficient and, at the hour we used it, you have a carriage each (if you so choose). We left Sahagun and arrived in Leon at 8.32 am after a 45 minute trip. It was raining and a number of fellow passengers were also on the Camino.

At the station at Leon we bought a map, located our hostal (hotel), and after 15 minutes walking, arrived at the Regia Posada Hostel. It is a lovely renovated old building with well worn polished stairs, beams across the ceilings, and period furnishings in the rooms. Since it was built in the 17th century, the addition of heating, hot and cold running water and a lift are greatly appreciated. We dropped off our packs and headed back out into the poor weather to check out the sights.

The cathedral and cloisters were first because they are out of the rain and the audio guides helped us negotiate the history and relevance of these amazing gothic structures. Leon had a running race on today so streets were ribboned off from the public and were very crowded. Men in Spain obviously think you run faster if you are dressed in vivid mismatched flouro shorts, shirts and shoes while the women have taken the 'less is more' approach and wear as little as possible, within the law of course. It goes without saying, I was shocked !

As the race finished the crowd dispersed and drifted to the main square. We were swept up in this large group and moved slowly, in a very upbeat group of runners and families, until we reached the grand palace at the front of the square. The crowd went one way and we went the other.

The rest of the day was spent getting lost up tiny dark lanes filled with the exotic aromas of cafés, and shops that were closed for Sunday. Back at the hostel we made plans for tomorrow, a public holiday in Spain, and made rolls with chorizo and strong cheese for dinner in our room.

Today, the 13th, we planned to check out the bus option for Sue, buy some new shoes and do a lot more sightseeing. As it was a public holiday, the shops were closed except for bars and cafés. We toured the famous building by Gaudi, Casa de Botines, an amazing structure with shingled spires and a very distinctive design. Lunch was ruled out today as we had a buffet breakfast at the hostel which outdid any other so far. Fruits, cereal, toast, cake, croissants, yoghurt, you name it, it was there and we had it.

in the Main Street in the old town, Tim noticed Leon had a tourist train that tours the town. As Tim offered to pay, I agreed to ride this excitement machine, as we did in Burgos, and while waiting for it to take us on its magical ride Sue noticed Libby and Doug from Tasmania who we had not seen since Day 4. We arranged to meet for dinner as our train lurched into the past. These tours, I must admit, are handy to preview sights that we can walk back to later on.

Doug had mentioned a trekking shop that was open nearby so we visited it after the train and walked out with new shoes for Sue and a bit of other gear we considered useful. The bus depot was next to be ticked off the list, leaving Tim and me heading out for a long walk while Sue went back to the room. We visited some of the attractions seen from the train, had a cafe con leche at a bar, and arrived back at the room in time to meet Doug and Libby at 6pm.

Dinner was a grand affair, 17 euros for 3 courses with real cloth tablecloths and napkins, and we couldn't have had better company. We caught up on all the Camino chat, planned for tomorrow and finished off with a flan for dessert and coffee. We were in bed by 9 pm.

Leon, with a population of about 130,000 people, was once a Roman military garrison and still has much of the roman walls and gateways intact. It has been ruled by Goths, Moors and now Christians and this mix of influences moulds into a very vibrant mix of architecture. The old and new now straddle the banks of the rio Barnesega and a stroll through the floral gardens along the banks is an easy way to pass the time.

The Camino has strong roots in this city and many pilgrims were catered for in the Middle Ages as they are now. Tomorrow we will follow the brass scallop shells inlaid in the footpaths to the edge of town where once again we will be guided by yellow arrows and the flow of backpacks leaving Leon. Goodnight.

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Photos

Breaky at Regia Posada
Buffet!

Regia Posada Rooms
17th century comfort.

Comments

[Mary Hopkins]

Photos
Steve, once again, beautiful photos to show off a beautiful area!

[Susan Petch]

Jealous
The square and Roman gates look amazing. I am jealous of you seeing one of Gaudi's buildings.