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Published: October 21st 2014
Today we challenge the mountain on horseback. We had breakfast at the alburgue, one of the few to offer cereal as a choice, and packed our bags to be transported to Triacastella. All three packs go today as you are not meant to take them on the horses. We gathered at El Paso, Victor's place, while he fed and prepared our mounts. Mine was a fine looking white mare, placid and well versed in the route. These horses knew their way and could pick a path through the sometimes rocky steep path. Victor walked ( that gives you an idea of our speed) and met a friend half way up who helped him lead the horses back down the mountain at great speed, riding and leading one each.
We were momentarily the kings of the mountain and many people we passed wished they had taken the same option. We passed through two small villages where the horses took the opportunity to have a drink and the pace was steady for the two hours we rode. Photos were taken by a growing fan club (for the horses)as we rode to the top and it was a memorable experience. At the summit
the horses were tethered to trees and we dismounted, only to find we had trouble standing. Sue was the worst, I just had a bit of pain in my knees. Horsemen we ain't !
At O Cebreiro we had a coffee and some Santiago Tart (I'm now addicted to it and will commit crimes to fund this passion) before starting off on foot to our destination 22 kms away. Sue was going to use a taxi for the last time as it was after midday and the walk to Triacastella was very rough climbing high and then descending on tracks rougher than anything I have experienced since Zubiri on day two. Sue walked 6kms with us through some beautiful scented forests with light honey coloured floors from the blanket of early autumn leaves that had fallen. There were some steep rises in this section but by the time Sue caught a taxi at Hospital de la Condesa I thought the worst was over. Almost immediately we started uphill over rough steep paths for about a kilometre and it had me wondering what the downward stretch was like. What goes up must come down, right ?
At the top
we travelled along good paths that followed the main road, only leaving to pass through farms and little settlements. We were accosted by dogs that were a cross between a German Shepard and a horse; they were huge! These farms can be smelt before they are seen and it is generally a fruity blend of silage and manure with a tinge of leafy vegetable garden thrown in to complete the perfume. I quite like it actually, as when combined with moist fresh air, it really has a country feel about it. It's all about the work on this land. As we passed one house in an isolated village, an old lady in an apron and head scarf beckoned Tim and I over and we waited while she disappeared inside. She reappeared with a plate of large crepes and sprinkled two with sugar and offered them to us with a 'buen Camino' blessing. She then asked for a 'donativo' which we were happy to give to support her kind work.
We followed these undulating paths until we saw Triacastella in the distance, nestled in a low, seemingly far away valley. The descent had begun. Following rough paths of rock, with
no discernible obvious route, we stumbled along for about four kilometres until we came to the first stone cottages of Triacastella . It's a very small hamlet and there is little to see there. We showered, rested a little and then went for dinner. We ate at a local bar and just chose single dishes rather than the pilgrims menu as we were not that hungry. The young girl running the bar was loud, funny and very Spanish. She constantly argued and played up to her older regulars and clearly enjoyed the banter. A girl who enjoyed her work. On our way back to our room we noticed a plumber and his mate doing drainage just outside our window at 9.30pm. You can't get spaniards to work in the afternoon but late at night is normal; work that one out!
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Spain
Makes me want to go hiking.