The path is bumpy and sandy. I lurched and squealed and shut my eyes in the scary parts. Scary parts: crossing bodies of water on a tire-wide concrete bridge with narrow rails on the sides for balancing with the feet. My second godson from Chi Phat, Rat, is an excellent motor bike driver. He has driven the path to the Wildlife Alliance Animal Rehabilitation Station, 7 kilometers outside of Chi Phat many times, so we arrived safely. First thing I noticed were the ducks toddling about (a source of eggs for the workers there), and then the hill myna birds who greeted us. These noisy black birds flash orange sideburns. They are fond of communing with the guests, perching atop motorbikes, luggage, chairs, and heads. Mr Souen, one of the caretakers, greeted us with a radiant ... read more

My Cambodian friend Neeri asked me if I missed my home in America. "No," I said. "Right now this place is my home." She and members of her family smiled. They came from a city far away to cook for me and be with me during my visit to Chi Phat. Despite all their family problems and worries, they have embraced and welcomed me into their lives. Even language does not seem to be a barrier. Our fondness for one another needs no words. My home. That's how I will continue to think of Chi Phat as I spend the next few days here, at the edge of the Cardamom Mountains in southern Cambodia. I volunteered here last year for two months, which allowed me to share in the lives of many. The family who runs ... read more

It's those moments of connection, confusion, or understanding that I relish when I travel. My ultimate joy is laughing with people. The following are moments that I treasure as I continue my journey in India: Temple Visits The Arunachaleshwar Temple in Tiruvanammalai is an important destination for pilgrims from all over India. I visited several times. One evening it was crawling with pilgrims, men shirtless and wearing black dhotis, women in red and yellow full-of-shakti-energy saris--all creating a striking contrast with the stone walls and the giant gopurams, or towers, at the temple's entrances. It was the new moon, an auspicious time to visit and pray to the Shiva deities dwelling deep within the inner sanctum spaces. I joined the clamoring crowd, and was ushered by a river of people to a long table of tiny ... read more

I marched through the gate between the beach and the posh resort at Mamallapuram, seeking a fancy restaurant experience. Having just adopted a tortoise, I needed to celebrate. My baggy pants, casual blouse, floppy hat, and lack of gold jewelry must have given me away as an outsider. A voice behind me called, "Excuse me madam, can I help you?" I turned around, and there was Ramesh, a man whom I would come to know in this small coastal city. "I just wanted to have lunch here," I said. "Where do you want to eat? We have two restaurants," he said, then added, "the entrance from the beach is just for resort guests." I appreciated his polite tone. He asked where I was staying. I named ... read more

There's something about the first few hours traveling in a foreign country. I've felt it so many times--exhaustion from the long flight, unsettled stomach, a bit of anxiety, eagerness and excitement over embracing a new adventure. But these first few hours--the day after I landed in Chennai--were different. It is, after all, my triumphant return to India. I first visited 40 years ago as a university student, hungry for a cultural experience, a bit naive and searching for some kind of personal enlightenment. Our group of 18 students from mid western US schools went straight to Madurai back then, to study Tamil and the culture, or at least that's how we started. That less-than-scholarly experience (most of us were not very disciplined students) somehow tied me to the place. I was drawn back twice since that ... read more