I spotted a dog lying on a bench at the side of the road while on my morning walk. Seeing a dog was not unusual, but a puppy was curled beneath the bench, and my heart tightened. Then the pup moved on three legs and held its rear leg aloft. It hobbled beneath a cart nearby. I approached, all the while talking to him, telling him he was sweet and asking how he hurt his leg. He whimpered a little, and I reached out to scratch his ear. I’m going to have to wash my hands, I should not be touching this stray, I thought. Can I take it to the family at my homestay? Would they feel the sadness around this baby with the hurt leg and uncertain future and adopt him? I walked on, ... read more

Suriya always includes a message in her Rangoli. ”We cannot touch the top of a tree—the branches get too thin and weak, and we would break them if we tried to climb them. So we must instead touch the sky.” That is the message of today’s Rangoli. Today is the first day of Margali, a month-long observance when the nights are longer and the air is cooler. And for each day of the month, women rise early to prepare their canvas, on the ground outside their doorsteps, where they create mandala-like designs—called a kolam or Rangoli—of white outlines and color-filled spaces. Ground white rock or rice and colored powders are their paints, their hands are their brushes. Normally Suriya would rise by 4:00 am and finish by 6:00 am. Only because I wanted to see did ... read more

Thousands of tiny lighted clay pots of oil shimmered on streets, alleys, balconies, and shop steps around Madurai. Karthigai Deepam celebrates the birthday of Murugan, the second son of Lord Shiva, and people here eagerly anticipated this holiday. Outside the door steps of houses, women had created purple, pink, yellow and red flower-shaped kolums right on the street, and placed oil lamps and flowers. Women swished from house to neighbor’s house in their best saris, trailing jasmine sweetness. Children ran up and down the streets, tossing fire crackers, waving sparklers, and setting off billowing light fountains. They were having a blast. I covered my ears. I waved at families through their open front doors, thanked them for photos. People rushed out to invite me into their homes. I drank tea at one, coffee at another, coffee ... read more

On my list of last minute things to do in Saigon: get a cup of really good coffee, get a massage, take a look at Mariamman Hindu Temple. That's it. Don't want to be too ambitious my last few hours. I have to get up at 3:30 am to head to the airport. I thought I'd beat the horrendous traffic by setting out early. Beating traffic is not possible. Zillions of scooters buzzed their collective way down the streets. I held my breath as I crossed a big street. I was in the middle thinking, "my gawd, am I going to live through this?" No break in traffic--I'm in the middle, and they're whizzing by--cars, trucks, motorbikes. They were very considerate, however, and avoided hitting me. Finally a break, and some drivers slowed a little for ... read more

Last year I foolishly passed up the opportunity to go to Banteay Chhmar, a sleepy village that boasts a large Angkorian temple and several satellite temples in various states of preservation. I made it this year, and I am so glad that I did! I glimpsed only a few tourists in the village and at the "headquarters" for this community based tourism organization. Two friendly CBT guides greeted me, arranged for meals to be cooked by women at the CBT kitchen, a motor bike tour of some of the satellite ruins, and a guided tour of the major temple. I was introduced to my homestay, a traditional wooden Khmer house with narrow stairs to the second floor and an undulating mattress in a corner room. A smiling white haired woman, the owner, prepared ... read more