I decided that motorcycle taxis are not that bad, I just need to relax and "go with the flow." So I found my faithful driver, Mario (he did tell me his name, but at the moment I've forgotten), and his velvet covered motorcycle seat, and off we went to Kyaikmaraw, a small town about 15 miles from Mawlamyine. This time I could watch the scenery, as the helmet was a bit smaller and didn't slip over my eyes as happened on the first ride. I enjoyed the palm tree lined road, the paddy fields--now mostly brown, patches of green where farmers tended cabbage or beans, and the beautiful Mon houses. Everything zipped by, and I hesitated to ask him to stop so I could take a photograph because it felt as if the rhythm of the ... read more

The Lonely Planet Guide to Myanmar says, "If you thought you'd seen some big old buddhas, just wait till you get a load of this one." Indeed! Here's the story for the day: It just so happens that the annual festival celebrating the birthday of the monk who built the Buddha at Win Sein Taw Yaw is in its second of three days. I have to go to see not only the monster Buddha, but also take in the festivities. The initial problem is getting there. Hire a car taxi? No, I head for the minivans that shuttle people every hour. But twenty feet outside the door of my hotel is the local motorcycle taxi service. They of course ask me where I'm going and I tell them. They give me an offer I can't refuse, ... read more

I asked Kyaw Kyaw to drive me to Saddar Cave, an hour or so from Hpa-an. It took longer to reach because every few minutes I wanted him to stop the car so I could take pictures. Traditional Kayin houses dominate this region. Mostly made from wood with either thatched or metal roofs, the majority of these attractive structures sit high on concrete and wood piers. Below the house is storage for construction materials, vehicles, and furniture sometimes. Very large round baskets covered with mud store rice for the families. Some houses have two storage bins. Just about every house has a carefully tended garden, some with shade structures supporting vines of pendulous squash. Dogs, cats, the occasional pig and satellite dish, a solar panel, (from China, where else?) and an outdoor well completes the picture. ... read more

Note: unfortunately, it seems that a big batch of photos is inaccessible on my memory card, so at this time I cannot download photos of the nats at Mount Popa. Maybe that is meant to be. I missed writing about nats, but now it is very appropriate. I witnessed the other day an unusual ritual as my driver and I headed toward the pilgrimage site of Kyaiktiyo. There was a tremendous banging on the side of the road. People were gathered under a shelter, and they were watching four women dancing. They were older women, dressed in shiny dresses of white or orange. On a platform at one end of the room were bowls of fruit and flowers. A man with a microphone sang loudly to the accompaniment of the traditional instruments of drums and gongs. ... read more

We left Kalaw, high in the hills of Shan state and drove toward Inle Lake. We saw overloaded vehicles on the way to market, women in fields cutting and threshing wheat. We stopped at a colorful market. I love markets. All colors and shapes of vegetables, fruits, dried fish, skewered eels, and cigar smoking women were there. I stopped to get a smear of thannaka, the light colored paste that so many women wear on their face to keep cool. The vendors were so patient and gracious, and loved seeing their photos. This helped them get over their puzzlement at the westerners staring at the strange produce. Then we stopped at Pandaya, an absolutely incredible natural cave that is filled with thousands of Buddha images. I thought the entrance was overwhelming with Buddhas, but there was ... read more