Advertisement
Published: December 23rd 2015
Going to heaven. That's what the December 21 winter solstice is about for devotees at the important Vishnu temples throughout India.My friend Premala told me about this day while I visited her in her home in Madurai. She warned that great crowds of people cram the streets around the Koodal Azhagar Temple in the evening, seeking an opportunity to receive darshan and cross the threshold into heaven. Just once a year, she said, a special doorway is opened, and devotees may pass through, following the Lord Vishnu.I needed to see for myself. The noisy, busy streets of Madurai are unbelievable. I approached the vertically striped red and white granite walls on streets cleared of traffic by police but packed by devotees. Vendors of yellow flowers, sweet smelling jasmine, lotus flowers, and leafy greens lined the curbs. A small twirling children's ride carried toddlers round and round in tiny cars. The roar of giant generators fueled the ride and intensified the cries of the throngs headed toward the five tiered entrance gopuram bedecked by strands of illuminated lights.I sought to watch and remain on the exterior, to avoid getting caught in the rush.
Vishnu being carried around the temple
This is the "portable" deity they carry for such occasions.But as I stood back and enjoyed the bedlam, a man told me I should enter. I pondered just for a moment, and decided that yes, I definitely wanted to enter heaven.I barreled my way to the free shoe storage stand, handed a woman my green Keen sandals. She placed them on the top shelf, where they contrasted so obviously with everyone else's shoes. She didn't even give me a claim number. The only westerner was being given special shoe treatment.Barefoot now and funneled into the queue, I inched along with sari clad women, children, and men, all seeking a glimpse of Vishnu in the inner sanctum. Warm, humid, jasmine scented air enveloped me as I crossed the great entry way. A vividly lighted display dominated the entrance, the carved stone walls reverberated with the buzz of the devotees sitting, standing, moving. Every square foot of space embraced swishing saris, purposeful bare feet, the prancing of children, pilgrims taking prasad, families connecting, energy multiplying. Signs pointed the way to the different "levels" of darshan--the glimpsing of the deity. General (free), 5 rupee, and special (20 rupees). The more you pay, the
closer you get. I joined the general queue, and pushed and shoved my way along to the elevated platform where I glimpsed far away Vishnu--known in this temple as Lord Koodal Azhagar. Shrouded in white and yellow flower garlands, he peered from the protective inner sanctum at his human devotees.Joining the human river again, I shuffled my way out the entry across the threshold, then sucked in the cool air. I did it! I'm surely going to heaven now. I phoned Premala and gushed that I was on the fast track to heaven. She shared my elation.
Now the queue to enter the temple was 30 times longer and curled around the temple walls. I gave thanks that I had beat the main rush. But the excitement had just begun.After wandering the streets and back alleys, I circled the block back to the main entrance gopuram. I joined the people milling about and seated along the road. They were waiting, waiting for the "portable" deity to exit the temple and process down the street.From my slightly elevated viewpoint I could hear first then see him coming--the crowd roared, the energy
rippled through the onlookers and pulsed through my body. Aloft on a raft atop men's shoulders, the flower garlanded deity rocked down the street, growing larger, flashing gold and red and blue jewels as he approached. A giant fan of peacock feathers waved near him. People craned their necks, cameras popped high into the air, breathing grew rapid, and the air vibrated intensely. He paused in front of me, the image sliced the thick air, and I beheld the deity. He lumbered on, people shoved, priests in their white dotis protected, a speaker blared music. Then suddenly a rush of frantic energy erupted, the crowd roared, the river splashed and tumbled. A policeman blew his whistle, failing to control the crowd that threatened to roll atop one another. I gave thanks for being protected in my stationary position just beyond the human flow. The energy softened, the crowd calmed, danger dissipated. I watched the deity round the corner beyond and disappear.Exhilaration filled my being. Rarely have I had the opportunity to share in such an event. I understand better now why devotees seek these experiences, braving the numbing traffic and absence of personal boundaries. Together, we joined
Devotees at Temple Door where Vishnu Passes
From the exterior. A woman told me that for only 10 days a year is this door opened. According to Premala my friend, one day a year Vishnu passes through this door and devotees can follow. in transcending our humanness, and touched the divine.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.163s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 11; qc: 70; dbt: 0.1188s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb
Judy Siekerk
non-member comment
Off to Heaven...
Thank you, Terry. I am living this vicariously through your vivid writing. It's so exiciting!