Hello, Rome! The first thing I noticed upon arriving is that there is a side of Rome that Hollywood completely ignores: the poor, broken, back alley side. After a bit of time, it became clear that not only is it ignored, but that it IS Rome. Based on what I've witnessed so far, about 80-90% of Rome -- basically everything except the main tourist areas -- is under-built. Especially if you get outside the old Roman walls, where it was especially sketchy. At dinner, we ended up at a Trattoria on a side street. First off, their pasta, while good, was nothing spectacular. However, their main courses were, which made up for it. More important to this story, though, is the Australian couple sitting next to us that we started talking to. They'd done a lot
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