Last weekend, I traveled with a group of HMI staff and students to the medieval Islamic city of Bidar. Bidar is located about 150 km east of Hyderabad in the neighboring state of Karnataka, and was the capital of two Deccan Muslim dynasties, the Bahmanis and the Barid Shahis, from about 1400 to the 1600’s. Bidar is famous for its fort and for the many tombs in the city that house many of the Bahmani and Barid rulers, their families, as well as an Iranian Sufi whose tomb is still venerated today, Khalil Allah. The city nowadays is a backwater town, still predominantly Muslim, and rarely sees visitors—in fact, our group received more than the usual stares from the locals. The fort at Bidar is encircled by about 10 km of baked brick fortifications, which on
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