2 hours in a suicide van (3 1/2 hours in Google Directions) from Hoi An brought me to this lovely little city on the Song Tra Khuc River. It's worth a day or two to explore its great energy, even if you don't intend to depress yourself by visiting the Mai Lai Massacre site. I borrowed a bicycle from my guesthouse (Thanh Lich- a wonderful place to stay, with such friendly and helpful owners) and rode 10k through the thick air to the memorial, and a few km past it, since it's a challenge to find. The Vietnamese call the hamlet Son My, not Mai Lai. It's a dollar to enter the grounds, an attractive garden built around the foundation of the razed homes, the centerpiece of which is unfortunately a towering communist propaganda statue. I've
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