Finally made it. Rode a few km from the hotel, just beyond the fishing village, which does smell distinctly of fish sauce and parked my bike at the bridge under which runs the fairy stream. Immediately, 2 guides were at my side -- both around 10 or 11 years old. Their names started with Ph, and S. The only English they spoke was "$1" (which later transformed into "$5") and "camera" so I know very little about the stream, except that you hike up it, meaning in it. It's alternately ankle deep and knee deep and it becomes very, very red about 10 minutes in. Also some stark white stalagmites/stalactites (?), and arch ways which are sort of like Utah. The red eventually becomes these high sandy cliffs, punctuated by bannanna and palm trees. Then a
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