Our tuk-tuk arrived at the dustbowl that was Pakse's southern bus station (halfway there, the first one had broken down and the driver had arranged another lift for us at no extra cost). The tuk-tuk hadn't even stopped when a bloke jumped onto the back and asked where we were headed. "Don Deth," we announced (it's pronounced Don Det, so it's not as ominous as it looks), and he indicated the sawngthaew (read: pickup-truck-converted-into-a-large-tuk-tuk) next to us, already about 1/3 full with unripe bananas. Almost simultaneously, an older guy reached in and tapped me on the shoulder, and with a roll of his eyes indicated the larger coach on the other side, waving me over. "Eleven dollar," he told me. Well, the banana-laden sawngthaew was only 3 dollars, so what the hell, eh? Our bags were
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