So, yet again I find myself staying in a stilted, hammock-sporting bungalow, but whereas last time I gazed out on to white sand and coral reefs, this time my view consists of a large expanse of muddy water with a few trees sticking up. I am in Don Det, which is part of an archipelahgo in the Mekong at the southern tip of Laos. The island is tiny, and once away from the cluster of buildings around the "port", tourist bungalows are equally interdispersed with local farms, cows patrol the tracks and much of the island is given over to rice paddys. Besides a couple of motorbikes, transport around the island is by bicycle or on foot, makiong it very slow paced and beautifully quiet. Apart from the guesthouses and restaurants, the island sports a couple
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