Embracing Bali Spirit: Nyepe Day of Silence 2023

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Although Bali may well be known to many visitors for its vibrant bar scene (Kuta), its impressive surf destination (Ulawatu), its diving (Ahmed, Tulamben, Nusa Penida), its famous terraced rice paddies (Tegalalang), its majestic volcano (Mount Agung), its volcano trekking (Mount Batur), or its incredible natural beauty everywhere, the essence of Bali, for us, is the spirit of its people - which we believe truly makes it the magical place it is. And there is no day that features this spirit more prevalently than Nyepe Day, the Day of Silence, which marks the beginning of the Bali Hindu New Year following the Balinese lunar (Saka) calendar.

It is our understanding that the Balinese prioritize balance in everything, and that it is the responsibility of people to balance the energies of evil spirits, good spirits, and the earth. The festivities which precede Nyepe Day are intended to acknowledge and appease the evil spirits. These festivities feature ogoh-ogoh demons created by and proudly carried through each village on the eve of Nyepe Day, accompanied by traditional Balinese music along with a cacophony of noisemaking and shouting, as would be fitting for a party of demons. But then, as tradition has it, the noise stops precisely at 6 a.m. on Nyepe Day, and the Day of Silence begins while the demons either sleep, or leave the island, thinking no one is there any longer. The Day of Silence continues for exactly 24 hours, until 6 a.m. the next day.

Nyepe Day is a day of rest and introspection. No sounds are allowed, no traveling is allowed outside one’s residence, all businesses are closed as no work is to be done, and no lights or cooking are permitted, as it is a day of rest for the earth as well. On this small island province of Bali, Indonesia, everything completely shuts down in the spirit of self-reflection. Only emergency vehicles are allowed on the roads, and no airplanes fly to or from the island, as the airport is closed. The Balinese do not enforce their spiritual beliefs on guests visiting their province; rather they invite them to share in the festivities if they wish, and encourage them to honour whatever their own beliefs are, while respectfully observing the silence of Nyepe Day.

Where else on the planet is this commitment to spirituality so fully embraced?

We arrived Bali just a few days before the festivities began, which allowed us to “relocate” mentally to another culture; to tour around and see some of the nearby ogoh-ogohs still under construction; then to make our way to the streets of Ubud along with thousands of others, including several drones flying above, to observe the parades that began just before sunset and continued in the streets for hours, followed by drumming and Balinese Gamelan music that could be heard from the surrounding villages well into the night.

Some believe that it is the many ceremonies that the Balinese celebrate throughout the year that define these gentle, kind and beautiful people. The Balinese practice a form of Hinduism that is intertwined with Buddhist beliefs and animism, an ancient worldview at the root of spirituality and religion, which views humans, along with all natural phenomena - animals, trees, plants, rocks, rivers, weather, mountains and volcanoes - as spiritual beings, all part of an interconnected web of life. Accordingly, the Balinese offer many ceremonial tributes throughout the year. However, we believe it is this spirit of interconnection - which is most evident in their connection to each other - not the ceremonies, that most defines the Balinese people.

Here again, we come back to Nyepe Day, where the members of each village work together to make their ogoh-ogoh creations for weeks in advance. Men carry their creations. Women carry theirs. Girls and boys each build and carry theirs. Even very young children build small ogoh-ogohs and parade them proudly through the streets, assisted by older family members. Everyone is included. This is community. This is connection. This is spirit. This is the true magic of Bali.

On Nyepe Day this year, we fully committed to the spirit of the day, perhaps more than on any previous Nyepe days we have spent here. Our entire resort was completely silent. At night, when all the lights were out, we made our way in darkness to the resort pool, from where we enjoyed a magnificently bright night sky, witnessed the Southern Cross constellation blazing in all its glory amidst a plethora of brilliant stars, framed by the silhouettes of massive coconut trees beside us, and fireflies that danced nearby.

We are so fortunate to be able to experience this energy and to be immersed in the incredible beauty that is Bali. It is no wonder we always leave here more than a little bit changed. More reverent. More spiritual. Perhaps a bit more gentle and kind. And always ever more grateful.

Thank you for your interest in our travels 🙏

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Comments

[Gail]

Embracing the silence
Hi Bev and Stan. Thinking about you two and your adventures and experiences in Indonesia. Thank you for sharing your Bali experience in relation to Nyepi. As with your other blogs, you were able to discern and appreciate what is truly valuable in your surroundings and treasure the gifts that they offer. You’re right-it’s the people , and the sense of community and commitment to their culture and spiritual beliefs that makes Bali so special. What a blessing to be there to experience that. We so appreciate your blogs and wish you well on the rest of your time in Indonesia. Enjoy every precious moment. Hugs to you and Stan and the beautiful Balinese people.💞