I marched through the gate between the beach and the posh resort at Mamallapuram, seeking a fancy restaurant experience. Having just adopted a tortoise, I needed to celebrate. My baggy pants, casual blouse, floppy hat, and lack of gold jewelry must have given me away as an outsider. A voice behind me called, "Excuse me madam, can I help you?" I turned around, and there was Ramesh, a man whom I would come to know in this small coastal city. "I just wanted to have lunch here," I said. "Where do you want to eat? We have two restaurants," he said, then added, "the entrance from the beach is just for resort guests." I appreciated his polite tone. He asked where I was staying. I named
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