Palolem Beach, 3 hours south of Baga, is perhaps the most idyllic postcard retreat you could imagine. We originally planned to rent motorbikes to get there but after the rental guy watched me test drive it in the parking lot, he refused. Apparently, according to Nicole, the man was wiping the sweat from his brow, shaking his head, and announcing "No, no, no, she will not take that on the roads." So we took a cab instead. Our taxi ride left our stomachs churning which we have now learned to expect. But as soon as we saw the beach, we remembered why we had trekked so far away from civilization. No horns, no crowds, no perverts, no trinket shops, no filth, just miles of palm trees, beach huts, and ocean. Yay! We hung up the mosquito
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