That morning as the train jolted me from my slumber, I woke to spectacular chartreuse light which filled the carriage. Everyone was already up sipping green tea from glass jars, highlighted in the dazzle and staring out the windows. Our train came to rest on a viaduct and from beneath it yellowing green autumnal rice, illuminated in the rising sun, stretched to the horizon. There was no fanfare on our arrival that morning in Kaili, and not a solitary taxi driver awaits us as we exit the train station. We hop on bus #2 and trundle into town. Judging by the intrigue of the local passengers not many little blonde baby boys make it out here. Like most small cities in contemporary China, Kaili is a fairly dull, nondescript place, devoid of tourist sites and growing
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