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Africa » Morocco November 16th 2004

Still in Casablanca - we had the misfortune to arrive over their equivalent of a bank holiday weekend - the end of Ramadan - so today was the first day we could get our visas sorted for Mauritania. Unfortunately many other travellers were in the same boat = massive queues of French, Spanish, German, American & Australians all jostling to be let in. Having dragged ourselves from the roof tent nice & early - 7am - we eventually got our visas at 2.30pm! By the time we'd found a bank to change some travellers cheques, which believe me was no easy feat, it was too late to set off for pastures new, so another night at the lovely Camping International Oasis in Casa - a 100% improvement on Sunday night's campsite further out on the coast; ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz » Marrakech November 15th 2004

Hello I'm in Marakesh! Its the 2nd day of Eid, a three day celebration at the end of Ramadaan. The strets are alive here, everyone is doing their last minute shopping and the men and women are dressed in their best. Its kind of like Christmas except without Santa Claus and christmas trees and snowmen and carols and pork products. Not only that, I can actually eat lunch now that the fasting is over (thank god). Marakesh is absolutely beautiful. The buildings are all red, the gardens are all green, and one can see the snow-capped Atlas mountains in the background. We don't have school for most of this week because of Eid, which ends tomorrow, and Independence Day which is Thursday. I came down Saturday from Casablanca (yuck) where I had a decadent French dinner ... read more

Africa » Morocco November 13th 2004

Arrived in Casablanca at sunset and treated ourselves to a hotel room with hot (well tepid) shower. I say treated as have spent last 3 nights sleeping rough. Camped in the mountains en route to Casa last night...we were just building the fire (well Neil was) and a man appeared from the shadows, and joined us round the camp fire for tuna & cous cous, cafe au lait & MOD army ration chocolate! Mohammad didn't say much and we tried the odd berber word, but he seemed happy enough sitting on my little stool...got a fright when he pulled his axe from under his tunic though! Refreshed, he made his way off in the pitch dark to whence he'd come from. Was absolutely freezing in the mountains last night, but glad things are at last warming ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen November 11th 2004

Having loaded the car and found I could litrally walk into the boot without bending my legs it was time to fit some uprated springs and give the Landrover some pride in her appearance as she had spent the last thousand miles dragging her fat arse all the way here. So after a day in Chefchaun spending most of my time avoiding the Kif merchants, a loud wistle is the first sign one wants your attention and for at least the first 10 times it works, you always look up. The route from the border is mainly hashish farms so without warning they run into the road holding up there packets in attempt to entice you. While in Chefchaun I meet an American Dave who tells me how he ended up in Morocco via Captaining yauchts ... read more

Africa » Morocco November 11th 2004

Awaiting our rather nice dry cleaned clothes! so have time to update the journal, drink mint tea, sleep..... Heading for Azrou 100km south of Meknes then on to Casablanca to attempt a repair on my expensive semi proffessional camcorder.....I will let katherine tell you about that faux pas needless to say my coca cola stroke (damn Arabic keyboard!) Mcdonalds budget gone for the trip. Also still unsure about whether we can collect visas for Mauritania on border so will try in Casa first, saving a 2000km round trip if were wrong. N Still haven't got to grips with Ramadan - spent ages trying to find a restaurant last night to no avail - seems the locals all eat at home throughout the whole month. So, lovely campsite meal of tuna oeuf omelette & bread....forgot to mention ... read more

Africa » Morocco November 11th 2004

Found a wonderful welder so staying one more night, still no water but time to update all the photos so take a look at the previous journals now in colorvision: Lesson of the day - don't feed stray dogs biscuits on campsites or they run off with your trangier omelette pan when you're back is turned! K And if I ever catch the mut at least we'll have a decent breakfast tomorrow although he didn't have much meat on him! N... read more

Africa » Morocco November 10th 2004

Meknes! at last here to see an old friend get some work done on the Disco and take it easy before heading into the heat, alas this was not the case a full day spent changing springs on car as we were dragging our big fat end all the way from the UK and 30 euros spent on one bag of laundry! yes you heard right 30 euros I wont say who made that mistake.N Dont bother with Meknes unless you really like wasting money, large, dirty, smelly and cold??????????????? He forgot to mention that deluxe campsite has no running water - hence the laundry faux pas. On the up side we were treated like kings & queens last night by chief mechanic Samir. He invited us back to his house for an evening of food, ... read more
More food!
Spot the stretch limo!
Womens work is never done

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes November 10th 2004

I just saw the king of Morocco in his motorcade. He came to Fez last night to pray at the Karouine mosque and the tomb of Moulay Idress and spent the night in his palace (which he probably doesn't use more than a few times a year since he lives in another palace in Rabat). Today as I was walking home I found the streets blocked off and a small crowd of people waiting nearby. Not more than 10 minutes later his majesty came through in his 60s era Mercedes limosine amidst at least 20 other vehicles. I could see him quite clearly actually, siting upright in the back seat. Ramadaan ends on Sunday, after which Aid, 3 days of feasting and celebrations, begins. We have Monday and Tuesday off, and Thursday too for independance day ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen November 8th 2004

After a 24 hr ferry crossing and 3 days in Spain we finally made it to Africa despite a near broken ankle on the eve of our departure. Spent last night in Pension La Castellana in Chefchaouen in the Rif Valley. Despite hundreds of offers for kif en route from Cueta we managed to resist and set off early this morning for Meknes. Lots of mechancial work on landrover planned for next few days...photos to follow soon we hope...... read more
Pension de Castellina
Chefchaouen
Cueta preparing for border crossing

Africa » South Africa » Western Cape » Cape Town November 8th 2004

Twice in one year I love it so much ! Of course catching up with one of my oldest friends and her gang make it one of my favourite places to visit. Cocktails at Greenpoint, whale watching in Hermanus, sandboarding, sundowners at Clifton, wine tours, Camps Bay beach, Table Mountain, all that shopping at Canal Walk and V&A, what's not to love about it. ... read more
Sandboarding
Seapoint Promenade
Cocktails at Greenpoint




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