Blogs from Ziguinchor, Lower Casamance, Senegal, Africa


Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor January 14th 2020

Inverno 2019/2020, Tropico del Cancro. Costa mediterrana del Marocco: fredda ed umida; costa atlantica nordafricana: ventosa e notti fredde; deserto del Sahara: di giorno un caldo atroce mentre di notte servono due coperte di lana; costa del senegambia: non male, ma l'acqua dell'oceano e' sempre terribilmente fredda; medio corso del fiume Gambia: clima quasi ottimale ma la vegetazione riarsa tutt'attorno conferma la cronica mancanza d'acqua durante la lunga stagione secca che si traduce anche in una pressoche' totale assenza di frutta sui banchi dei mercati della regione: qualche banana, mandarini dal Marocco e mele (mele!) dal Sudafrica, tutto a prezzi di livello quasi europeo. Questa parte di Africa, in inverno, rappresenta ben poco quello che idealmente intendiamo per "paradiso tropicale"; sempre meglio del lungo e buio inverno europeo comunque, ma per trovare qualcosa di piu' convinc ... read more
L'acqua della Casamance
Mangrovia solitaria
Ziguinchor: casa ad impluvio

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor March 20th 2018

16-17-18 mars "Follow the leader leader leader Follow the leader" The Soca Boys Installé au campement Emanaye d'Oussouye, j'attend sous mon voile en moustiquaire que le 6AM s'illumine sur mon cadran portatif. Des chiens hurlent à la lune depuis au moins 1 heure. Hier soir, l'une de ces bêtes errantes s'en ait prit à l'un de nombreux chevreaux qui peuplent les alentours. J'ai entendu dans les champs l'effroi de la chèvre, avant que l'agriculteur accoure à sa rescousse et la sauve in extremis des dents du carnivore affamé. J'ai vu beaucoup de chèvres au Sénégal depuis mon arrivée, mais très peu de chiens. (à part Praline bien sûr, le vieux toutou de Martine). Les chiens ici servent habituellement aux bergers et gardent le troupeau. De toute évidence, celui-là n'a pas passé son test d'admission.... read more
Follow the leader

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor March 17th 2018

13-14 mars "Je suis allé en Casamance, j'en rêvais depuis longtemps à cause du mot romance" André Malraux Séparée du reste du Pays, la Casamance se trouve enclavée entre la Gambie au nord et la Guinée-Bissau au sud. S'y rendre en taxi-brousse semble être une désagréable aventure de patience, causée principalement par une interminable attente (paraît-il) au poste frontalier de la Gambie. L'option préférée des voyageurs demeure donc le traversier qui, 2 à 3 fois par semaine, quitte Dakar pour rejoindre Ziguinchor (en Casamance) en une quinzaine d'heures de traversée. Ayant prévu le coup depuis plus d'une semaine, j'ai (heureusement) un billet de croisière entre les mains, ce qui m'empêchera d'effectuer les suffocantes étapes de route terrestre jusqu'à Ziguinchor. ... Comme planifié, je m'installe dans l'édifice flottant,... read more
Babyfoot sur la plage
Port de Dakar
Plage propre de Ziguinchor

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor July 7th 2010

from Nouakchott we took a sept place taxi to rosso at the senegalese border, which is a river and involves crossing by pirogue after your passports have been stamped on the Mauritanian side. The border was very chaotic; trying to hold on to our passports at the same time as attempting to find a decent price for a boat across the river in the heat. finally we made it to the other side where we met a senegalese man called Amelou who changed miney for us and invited us back to his house for tea and playing the guitar. Once it had cooled down we made our way to Saint Louis which was much more relaxed and cooler so we stayed there for a few days going around with someone who lives there called Hallifa. We ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor June 17th 2009

Unfortunately my camera that I bought in Dakar later erased all my pictures I took over the next two months. Eventually I got a new card and have some pictures from the end of my trip, but pics are scarce for the next several entries. Sorry! A couple of interesting days in the capital of the Casamance. Salif’s friend Babaka met me at the port and took me to his house. Everything has been great as far as that is concerned. 5000 CFA per night and I buy most of the food, which he cooks. (Babaka is a pastry chef at a fancy resort hotel in Cap Skiring). I’m not sure where his parents are, but it’s sort of like Peter Pan and the Lost Boys here, except in this case Peter Pan is quite ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor November 11th 2008

Monday 3rd November I spend a leisurely day floating around town and relaxing. Sitting on the verandah overlooking the Casamance river with a gently cooling breeze. It is just great. Did I say somewhere I love being on the bike? Speaking of which the bike gets a big treat by way of a power wash and general check and tightening of bolts, it needed it. And some other maintaince. Despite the Trans Gambian Highway the Heath Robinson repair on the headlight is holding up. Another decision today. Mark will head west tomorrow to Cap Skiring and the ocean and more particularly a TV with the U.S. elections. Geoff and I head for Tambacounda and Mali. I have just realised how quickly time is passing and want to spend as much time in Mali as possible. Tuesday ... read more
161 Pirogues on the Casamance
162 Clean Dakar IMG 0009
163 R Casamance5 IMG 0004

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor November 5th 2008

I was ready to get out of Ziguinchor and see what I would find in the more remote parts of Casamance. I deceided to make my way to the island of Karabane. Distances were mostly short in Casamance so I arrived in Elinkane in less than 2 hours. After a simple lunch by the river I got by first experience of traveling by pirogue. This happens to be a long dugout wooden canoe with a motor that transports locals from different spots thoughout the islands and small viliages off the river. They can fit 30 or people on these boats but you are in close quarters with the luggage and locals. Only the tourist pirogues have a roof to provide shade so I was at the mercy of the sun for the next 45 minutes. I ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor November 2nd 2008

I left Dakar on Halloween night with not even a small image in Senegal that reminded me of Halloween in Chicago. I am sure all of my friends are out these next two nights in costumes partying the night away. It wasn't so bad for me as I was taking an overnight Ferry to the southern region of Senegal called Casamance. The ferry was very modern and I traveled in comfort as I had a bed in 4 person room. I spent the night talking to other travelers about their travels through West Africa. I awoke to us out of the Atlantic and now traveling down the Casamance River. When I researched Senegal the one place I wanted to visit was the Casamance region for it's forests, rice fields, many riverways and tropical climate. It was ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor October 21st 2008

Alright, where was I... So, Monday we set out for Oussouye, a village not far from Ziguinchor and a common base for hiking/biking adventures in the region. Finding a means of transportation from Ziguinchor was not very fun. The instant we walked into the Gare Routiere (road station), a mob of aggressive drivers came upon us, shouting prices, pushing each other out of the way, giving contradictory information... needless to say it was hot, overwhelming, and generally unpleasant. Finally we decided to take an air conditioned minibus which we were assured was leaving "leegi leegi" (right away)... apparently "leegi leegi" can also mean two hours later. So, we were left to wait patiently in the stuffy car, windows open with begging children poking at us non-stop and portable store fronts enticing us with an array of ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Lower Casamance » Ziguinchor October 18th 2008

It's been quite awhile! Normally I can't wait to update my blog but its been difficult with my broken key board. The reflective mood will strike me when I'm bored at home which would be the perfect opportunity to write in my blog to update later when I have internet... except that the t, i, and o keys aren't working. Those are three very important letters and it would take far too long to add them in manually... so I've been slacking on my updates. Sorry! Anyways... TONS has happened since I last posted. Rereading, I think there was a lot I wanted to say before I even left, but I think its better for me to pick up from my vacation in Casamance, or I'll never get back into the swing of updating as things ... read more

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