Crown Cities of Central Europe - October, 2017

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Europe’s Crown Cities – October 2017



Admittedly I’m not a fan of western Europe, but given the opportunity to explore a couple of cities known as the “crowns” located in the eastern sector, well I’m all over that. This journey will have me back in familiar territory (i.e. Budapest and Prague), plus I’ll wander German and Austrian streets, providing new locales to add to my world map.



My travel day begins with a much more civilized time of 12 noon – these zero-dark-thirty alarm calls are getting old fast. This way I sleep in, have breakfast and be fully awake before I make my shuttle drive to the airport.



After 3 uneventful flights, I touched down in Prague just as the sun was setting. My bag took a little longer than usual – visions of lost luggage dancing in my head - but finally it appeared. Next stop the exit and my waiting car and driver, who whisked me as fast as rush hour traffic would allow, thru the city with the sunset highlighting the beautiful skyline of this ancient and awesome city. It had been a long couple of days getting here, so an early dinner of outstanding beef goulash in the hotel’s restaurant was first on the agenda, then a hot shower and face down in the very comfy bed.



After a hearty breakfast the next morning, I’m ready to get reacquainted with this fascinating city, and by 8:00am, I was ready to hit the streets for a few hours of walking, sightseeing and capturing city images by the boatload. Prague is considered one of Europe’s most attractive cities (I couldn’t agree more), and its historic city center has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.



Prague is the equal of Paris in terms of beauty. Its history goes back a millennium. And the beer? It’s said to be the best in Europe. The 1989 Velvet Revolution that freed the Czechs from communism, bequeathed to Europe a gem of a city to stand beside stalwarts such as Rome, Amsterdam and London. Not surprisingly, visitors from around the world have come in droves, and on a hot summer's day it can feel like you’re sharing Charles Bridge with half of humanity. But even the crowds can’t take away from the spectacle of a 14th-century stone bridge, a hilltop castle and a lovely, lazy river – the Vltava – that inspired one of the most hauntingly beautiful pieces of 19th-century classical music, Smetana’s Moldau symphony.



Prague's art galleries may not have the allure of the Louvre, but Bohemian art offers much to admire, from the glowing Gothic altarpieces in the Convent of St Agnes, to the luscious art nouveau of Alfons Mucha, and the magnificent collection of 20th-century surrealists, cubists and constructivists. The weird and witty sculpture of David Černý punctuates Prague's public spaces, and the city itself offers a smorgasbord of stunning architecture, from the soaring verticals of Gothic and the exuberance of baroque to the sensual elegance of art nouveau and the chiseled. cheekbones of cubist facades.



The best beer in the world just got better. Since the invention of Pilsner Urquell in 1842, the Czechs have been famous for producing some of the world's finest brews. But the internationally famous brand names – Urquell, Staropramen and Budvar – have been equaled, and even surpassed, by a bunch of regional Czech beers and microbreweries that are catering to a renewed interest in traditional brewing. Never have Prague's pubs offered such a wide range of ales.



Prague's maze of cobbled lanes and hidden courtyards is a paradise for the aimless wanderer, always beckoning you to explore a little further. Just a few blocks away from the Old Town Square you can stumble across ancient chapels, unexpected gardens, cute cafes and old-fashioned bars with hardly a tourist in sight. One of the great joys of the city is its potential for exploration – neighborhoods such as Vinohrady and Bubeneč can reward the urban adventurer with countless memorable cameos, from the setting sun glinting off church domes, to the strains of Dvořák wafting from an open window.


First a long walk thru the picturesque Lesser Town aka the Little Quarter, with its ancient burgher houses and quaint inviting side streets. Each turn of a corner brings new vistas of delight and numerous photo opportunities – yes, you can take a few dozen pix of red-roofed buildings of indeterminate age, with intricate carvings, gargoyles and windows.


Next up was the world-famous Charles Bridge, one of Europe’s oldest stone bridges and then into Old Town. Stepping into the Old Town Square and you journey back in time, 600 or 700 years. Stand in awe as the dramatic history of Prague permeates the air. This square is one of two main squares in Prague, with Wenceslas Square being is the other, just a 5-minute walk away. The Old Town Square dates from the 12th century and started life as the central marketplace for Prague. Over the centuries buildings of Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic styles were erected around the market, each bringing with them stories of wealthy merchants and political intrigue.


At the center of the Old Town Square is the Jan Hus statue, erected on the 6th July 1915 to mark the 500th anniversary of the reformer’s death. The groundswell of support for his beliefs during the 14th and 15th centuries led to the Hussite wars. To fully appreciate the beauty of the Old Town Square, sit back and soak up the atmosphere over a coffee or a cool beer at one of the pavement cafés lining the square. Or climb the Old Town Hall Tower for a stunning view over the square.


To complete my visit to this area, it was time for the Astronomical Clock, which is on one side of the Old Town Hall Tower, and dates from the 15th century. To fully appreciate the clock's intricate construction, I joined the crowd in front of the tower to watch the procession of the Twelve Apostles: on the hour, every hour, a small trap door opens, Christ marches out ahead of his disciples, while the skeleton of death tolls the bell to a defiant statue of a Turk. Below the Astronomical Clock are 12 medallions with the signs of the zodiac, added by Josef Manes in 1865. The Old Town Hall Tower built in 1338, is one of the most striking buildings in Prague. Inside is a staircase and an elevator. For a fee, visitors can climb or ride to the top to experience terrific views over the square, and the rest of the Old Town. In 1364 the Old Town Hall Tower was renovated into a private house adjoining it, which in turn was connected to other houses beside that. This amalgamation of buildings became known as the 'Old Town Hall'. Extensive renovation in 1470 further integrated the various houses of the Old Town Hall. All the buildings were also remodeled in the Gothic style. Today the Old Town Hall houses the primary Prague Tourist Information Center in its reception area, and hosts civic ceremonies in some of its many historical halls.



Who hasn’t heard of Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral? To many people, St. Vitus Cathedral is Prague Castle. While the Prague Castle complex houses many buildings, St. Vitus is the one that dominates the skyline wherever you are in the city. St. Vitus Cathedral is a gothic masterpiece, and is the spiritual symbol of the Czech state. The cathedral was originally commissioned by Charles IV. Construction began in 1344 on the site of an earlier 10th century rotunda. However, it took almost six centuries to complete, with the final phase of construction in the period 1873-1929.


As well as being the largest and most important church in Prague, St. Vitus Cathedral has also overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens down thru the ages. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this in the crypt, there are the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, and patron saints of the country are interred here. St. Wenceslas Chapel is decorated with frescoes and semi-precious stones. A door in the south-western corner of the chapel leads to the Crown Chamber, in which the Bohemian Coronation Jewels are stored.



My final evening in Prague was spent enjoying a superb dinner at Restaurant U Lipy, which is a 110-year house converted into a fantastic restaurant serving authentic Czech dishes. Located in a Prague suburb, I spent a great evening dining on pork cutlets, cabbage and sliced potatoes, and whenever my wine glass showed a decrease in liquor, the owner/waiter was at my shoulder refilling the glass – definitely my kind of place! Food was superb, the entertainment reminiscent of a German Beer Hall…I really had a great time overall.



An early start the next morning for my onward journey to Germany, with the first stop being in the small town of Regensburg, situated on the Danube river. It was pouring rain as I departed Prague – not an auspicious start to the day for sure – and it didn’t get much better as I crossed the border into Bavaria. The temperature had dropped into the low 50’s and at times, the rain pounded the bus like a tom-tom….such is life on the road.



A Roman settlement completed under Emperor Marcus Aurelius around 90 AD, Regensburg was the first capital of Bavaria, the residence of dukes, kings and bishops, and for 600 years a Free Imperial City. Two millennia of history bequeathed the city some of the region’s finest architectural heritage, a fact recognized by UNESCO in 2006. Though big on the historical wow factor, today’s Regensburg is a laid-back and unpretentious sort of place, and a good springboard into the wider region.



The first settlements in Regensburg date from the Stone Age. In 179, a new Roman fort was built and became an important camp on the most northerly point of the Danube. It corresponds to what is today the core of Regensburg's Old City. It is believed that as early as late Roman times, the city was the seat of a bishop.



From the early 6th century, Regensburg was the seat of a ruling family known as the Agilofings. From around 530 AD to the first half of the 13th century, it was the capital of Bavaria. Regensburg remained an important city during the reign of Charlemagne. In 800 AD the city had 23,000 inhabitants and by 1000 AD, this had almost doubled to 40,000 people. In 1096, on the way to the first crusade, Peter the Hermit led a mob of Crusaders that attempted to force the mass conversion of the Jews of Regensburg and killed all those who resisted. Between 1135 and 1146, the stone bridge across the Danube was built at Regensburg. This bridge opened major international trade routes between northern Europe and Venice, and this began Regensburg's golden age as a residence of wealthy trading families. Regensburg became the cultural center of southern Germany and was celebrated for its gold work and fabrics.



Another few hours on the road brought me just before dinner time, to the capital of Bavaria – Munich, a place I have not had the pleasure of visiting previously. The natural habitat of well-heeled power dressers and Lederhosen-clad thigh-slappers, Mediterranean-style street cafes and Mitteleuropa beer halls, highbrow art and high-tech industry, Germany’s unofficial southern capital is a flourishing success story that revels in its own contradictions. If you’re looking for Alpine clichés they’re all here, but the Bavarian metropolis has many an unexpected card down its Dirndl. But whatever else this city is, it’s popular. Statistics show Munich is enticing more visitors than ever, especially in summer and during Oktoberfest, when the entire planet seems to arrive to toast the town.



Munich’s walkable center retains a small-town air but holds some world-class sights, especially art galleries and museums. Throw in royal Bavarian heritage, an entire suburb of Olympic legacy and a kitbag of dark tourism, and it’s clear why southern Germany’s metropolis is such a favorite among those who seek out the past but like to hit the town once they’re done.



As it was still daylight, my first stop was the world-famous Glockenspiel Clock which is a tourist attraction in Marienplatz, in the heart of Munich. Part of the second construction phase of the New Town Hall, it dates from 1908. Every day at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. it chimes and re-enacts two stories from the 16th century to the amusement of mass crowds of tourists and locals. It consists of 43 bells and 32 life-sized figures. The top half of the Glockenspiel tells the story of the marriage of the local Duke Wilhelm V to Renata of Lorraine. In honor of the happy couple there is a joust with life-sized knights on horseback representing Bavaria and Lothringen. The Bavarian knight wins every time, of course. The entire show lasts about 8 or 9 minutes and thankfully the rain held off until the very end. The square started to empty pretty fast with the show concluded, and before ending to dinner in a local restaurant, I had to stop by the equally famous Hofbrauhaus Beer Hall, which has billed itself as the world’s most famous beer tavern for ages. The building itself has been on the current site for more than 500 years. It obviously does a land office business, as locals and tourists alike pour in and out of the lobby doors, those exiting certainly a lot more inebriated than those headed inside! The temperature was dropping, and more rain appeared eminent, so it was time to make my way to a nearby restaurant for some warmth and dinner. The Augustiner Klosterwirt is an authentic German tavern just a couple of blocks from the Marienplatz (main square) of the city. I was seated downstairs in an extremely crowded bar area, but the atmosphere was jovial no doubt due to the massive amounts of beer being consumed on the premises! It was an interesting couple of hours, but I was disappointed in the food, really nothing special at all. Probably more than 90%!o(MISSING)f the clientele were tourists, due to the reputation of this place, but I left unimpressed and dissatisfied overall.


The next morning was much cooler than the day before….winter is definitely on its way in southern Germany. Made more sense to stay out of the wind and dropping temperatures by taking a bus drive around the city and sightseeing in comfort and warmth. First up was the site of the 1972 Munich Summer Olympic Games, which forever will live in infamy for the massacre of those Israeli athletes. It is still in use for various games (i.e. football) and many concerts are held here year-round. Next stop was to view the stunning Nymphenburg palace and park. This baroque palace in the west part of Munich, was the summer residence of the Bavarian monarchs. Five generations of Wittelsbach rulers were involved in the construction of this stately ensemble, which houses several outstanding collections. With its lavishly decorated interior and the famous "Gallery of Beauties" commissioned by Ludwig I, the palace is one of Munich's favorite attractions. Among the highlights are the former bedroom of King Ludwig II and the impressive banquet hall with fine ceiling frescoes by Johann Baptist Zimmermann.


The palace is one of the largest royal palaces in Europe and is a “not to be missed” item on a sightseeing tour through the Bavarian capital city. The oft-visited Baroque tourist attraction with its expansive landscaped garden and museum draws not only guests from around the world, but is also a beloved institution for Munich residents. In 1664, Prince Ferdinand Maria had the castle built as a present to his wife, who had borne him the long-awaited heir, Max Emanuel. Max Emanuel himself later played a significant role in expanding the palace layout.


The palace houses the Museum of Man and Nature and the Porcelain Museum. In the expansive palace park, visitors can discover numerous other smaller attractions, Amalienburg summer residences as well as the large landscape gardens, with architectural gems, hidden sculptures, and picturesque streams and lakes.


An afternoon drive brought me to the Linderhof Palace – Ludwig ll’s (aka the Mad King) highest flight of fancy. Of the three palaces that Ludwig II built, Linderhof is the most inspired.A triumph of splendour and extravagance, it lies in the secluded Graswang valley. King Ludwig II of Bavaria's fairytale palace is the only one he lived to see completed and the one in which he stayed more than anywhere else. This world of fantasy and flamboyance includes an illuminated artificial grotto surrounding a small lake. On it bobs a shell-shaped boat and there are garlands of flowers everywhere. A romantic, allegoric painting is daubed on a rock face. Linderhof Palace occupies the original site of the hunting lodge which belonged to Ludwig's father, King Maximilian II. A vestibule and staircase were added to the royal villa, followed by a hall of mirrors and two tapestry chambers. Like all other state rooms in the palace, it is decorated in the style of the second rococo era. The original wooden exterior was clad with solid stone, which enabled the building to take on the representative character of French palaces and become the focal point of the estate. Linderhof Palace Park is a stunning example of historicist-era landscape gardening. Immediately outside the palace are baroque partitions such as garden and water parterres as well as terraces and cascades arranged in the Italianate Renaissance style. Every year on August 24^th, fires are lit on the hills surrounding nearby Oberammergau to celebrate the birthday of Bavaria's favorite king.


Just down the road from the Linderhof Palace is the site of the world-famous Oberammergau Passion Play, in the town of Oberammergau. This small Bavarian community, with 5,100 inhabitants located within the Ammergau Alps, owes its reputation to the impressive Passion Plays that have been performed every 10 years in the town since 1634 - the next will take place in 2020, from 16 May to 4 October. The village is an absolute gem - a true Alpine paradise with beautifully painted exteriors on the chalet-style houses. This small town on the Ammar River is known for its outstanding woodcarvers, no doubt a few of these craftsmen become actors in the Passion Plays. The Passion Play is the result of a vow made by the inhabitants of the village that if God spared them from the effects of the bubonic plague then sweeping the region, they would perform a passion play every ten years. A man travelling back to the town for Christmas had accidentally brought the plague with him. The man died from the plague and it began spreading throughout Oberammergau. After the vow was made, not another inhabitant of the town died from this disease and all the town members that were still suffering from the plague recovered. The play is now performed in years ending with a zero, as well as in 1934 which was the 300th anniversary and 1984 which was the 350th anniversary (though the 1940 performance was cancelled due to the onset of WWll in 1939). It involves over 2000 actors, singers, instrumentalists and technicians, all residents of the village.


The sun was setting over the snow-tipped mountain range, as the trip bus started back for the 1-hour drive to Munich, and it was full dark and very cold by the time I was happily back in my hotel room, ready for a decent night’s sleep before hitting the road again. This was the weekend that Europe turned back the clock one hour to end Summer Daylight Time and return to Standard Time, giving me an extra hour of sleep which is always appreciated by yours truly.



By 8am I was headed out of town for my next stop on the travel agenda – the birthplace of Mozart; site of the Sound of Music movie; magical Salzburg, Austria. The joke “if it's baroque, don't fix it” is a perfect maxim for Salzburg, the storybook Old Town burrowed below steep hills looks much as it did when Mozart lived here 250 years ago. Standing beside the fast-flowing Salzach River, your gaze is raised inch by inch to graceful domes and spires, the formidable clifftop fortress and the mountains beyond. It's a backdrop that did the lordly prince-archbishops and Maria proud.



Beyond Salzburg’s two biggest money-spinners – Mozart and The Sound of Music – hides a city with a burgeoning arts scene, wonderful food, manicured parks, quiet side streets where classical music wafts from open windows, and concert halls that uphold musical tradition 365 days a year. Everywhere you go, the scenery, the skyline, the music and the history send your spirits soaring higher than Julie Andrews' octave-leaping vocals.



However, the weather was determined not to cooperate for my sightseeing plans. Today turned out to be the coldest, wettest and most miserable climate of the entire adventure in central Europe, and by the end of the day, I had suffered thru torrential rains, hurricane-strength winds, temperatures in the high 30’s and even snow flurries! I was chilled to the bone before I reached my hotel for the night, but at least I did see a good portion of this lovely city and drove up into the Bavarian Alps, very close to Hilter’s Eagle Nest location.



Morning hours were spent walking thru the gardens and Old Town, but the driving rain, bitter cold temperature and incredible high winds, made the walk pretty damn miserable – I was thrilled when it was finally over – not to mention chilled to the bone and soaked to the skin. But the afternoon improved somewhat (not in the weather department unfortunately), when I was able to stay inside a warm tourist bus while driving up into the Bavarian Alps with high hopes of seeing fabulous alpine vistas…..didn’t happen! The rain clouds were so thick and low, we were lucky to see 200’ from either side of the bus and that was between driving snowflakes…..what a crazy day it ended up being. Arriving back at the hotel, it was hot shower time and warm, dry clothing for an early dinner. Fingers crossed things are a hell of a lot better tomorrow.



Woke up to a cold but dry morning – so far, so good. Time to bid adieu to Salzburg and make my way to the heartland of Austria……it’s capital city Vienna. The rain held off for maybe an hour and then it was cold, rain, snow and sleet for the majority of the 185-mile drive thru the stunning Austrian countryside. Picture postcard villages at every turn with placid cows grazing in the brilliant green fields, silver-gray lakes stretching to the equally silver-gray horizon (hard to tell where one ended and the other began, with all the rain clouds) and of course, still very cold. As I approached this royal location, finally the sun broke thru the storm clouds and bathed this magical city in golden sunlight….at least I saw the sun for about 45 minutes until I arrived at my hotel in the center of the city.


Baroque streetscapes and imperial palaces set the stage for Vienna's artistic and musical masterpieces, alongside its coffee-house culture and vibrant epicurean and design scenes. Vienna's imperial grandeur is the legacy of the powerful Habsburg monarchy. Their home for more than six centuries, the Hofburg palace complex incorporates the Imperial Chapel, where the Vienna Boys' Choir sings Sunday Mass, and the famed Spanish Riding School, where Lipizzaner stallions perform elegant equine ballet, along with a trove of museums, including in the chandeliered Imperial Apartments. Other immense palaces include the baroque Schloss Belvedere and the Habsburgs 1441-room summer residence, Schloss Schonbrunn, while 19th-century splendors such as the neo-Gothic City Hall line the magnificent Ringstrasse encircling the inner city.



One of the Habsburgs' most dazzling Rinsgstrasse palaces, the Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, houses the imperial art collection. It's packed with priceless works by Old Masters, and treasures including one of the world's richest coin collections. Behind the Hofburg, the former imperial stables have been transformed into the innovative MuseumsQuartier, with a diverse ensemble of museums, showcasing 19th- and 20th-century Austrian art at the Leopold Museum to often-shocking avant-garde works at the contemporary MUMOK. Meteorites, fossils and prehistoric finds fill the Natural History Museum, while exquisite furnishings at the applied-arts Museum are also among the artistic feasts in store.



With a musical heritage that includes composers Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Josef Haydn, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert, Johann Strauss (father and son), Johannes Brahms and Gustav Mahler among countless others, Vienna is known as the City of Music. Its cache of incredible venues where you can catch performances today include the acoustically renowned Musikverein, used by the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, the gold-and-crystal main opera house, as well as the dedicated home of the Vienna Boys' Choir. Music comes to life through interactive exhibits at the captivating Haus der Musik museum.



The Viennese appreciation of the finer things in life extends to its opulent coffee-houses serving spectacular cakes; its beloved pub-like Beisln dishing up hearty portions of Wiener Schnitzel, prime boiled beef and goulash; elegant restaurants; and its fine Austrian wines served in vaulted wine bar cellars, and in rustic vine-draped wine taverns in the vineyards fringing the city. Local and international delicacies fill the heady night market stalls, and creative chefs are experimenting with local produce and fresh new flavor combinations in innovative, often repurposed venues.



My first evening in town was spent at the Wierner Borsensale, attending a classical concert of some of the best and most beloved Mozart and Strauss masterpieces. The building with its characteristic red-brick façade, is one of the most significant monumental buildings on the famous Ringstrasse. The former headquarters of the Vienna stock exchange was built between 1871 and 1877 by the architect Theophil von Hansen. The interiors are stunning – marble everywhere and well-worn staircases leading to the upper floors. For almost two hours, I was entranced with the 10-piece orchestra, including a fabulously-talented female lead violinist, who coaxed the purest, most incredible notes from her instrument. Included in the ensemble was an opera singer (I’ve seen better looking faces on arsenic bottles, but that doesn’t detract from her voice), and a couple of classically-trained ballet dancers, a male and a female. What an outstanding concert and the complimentary glass of champagne during intermission didn’t hurt my feelings either. The music soared to the rafters of a former ballroom with its 40’ ceilings emblazoned with the Habsburg coat of arms. It ricocheted off decorated walls and enveloped the thrilled audience.



Returning to the hotel around 10:30pm I stopped by the onsite restaurant Arsenal for a late-night supper, having missed dinner to attend the concert. I ordered the beef noodle pot soup, served piping hot, with dark, German beer bread. My favorite part was the half of a boiled potato floating on the top. Tasted fantastic and cheap – a perfect way to finish a great day. The Imperial Riding School Renaissance Vienna Hotel, is set against the backdrop of the vibrant city center. A historic hotel - once a military riding school dating back to the mid-nineteenth century - delivers a winning combination of modern style and classic elegance. It’s part of the Marriott Group and being a member, I could get free Wifi in my room, which normally is a $16 a day fee.



I spent a wonderful day exploring this exquisite location, regardless of the cold, wet, gray and completely miserable weather. I began with Vienna's state boulevard which girds the city center and is the perfect place to get my bearings. It stands in the place of the former city walls, which were torn down after the Napoleonic Wars. I jumped on the Yellow Ring Tram for a 30-minute tour past beautiful buildings such as state museums, the Opera, Austrian Parliament, Vienna City Hall, and Stadtpark. The city’s luxury shopping mile is part of the pedestrian area in the center, running between the State Opera and St. Stephen's Cathedral. The most famous shop is glass manufacturer Swarovski's stunning flagship store.



Winterpalais is a hidden gem of a town palace, and I discovered it quite by chance. It's located just off Kaerntnerstrasse and has only 10 rooms, so easy to cover in a few minutes. The palace once belonged to Prince Eugene of Savoy, one of Austria's most famous military commanders. For six centuries, Vienna was the capital of the mighty Austro-Hungarian Empire, ruled by the Habsburg dynasty. The Hofburg, home of the Habsburgs from the first emperor in 1273 until the last in 1918, grew in scope and grandeur over the years, as each emperor sought to outdo his predecessors. Today, it houses a cornucopia of attractions, including six museums, the National Library, and the Imperial Apartments. I decided to start in the middle and work my way out, via my favorite the HOHO bus.



Naschmarkt is Vienna's most popular food market, and the perfect hunting ground for all things vintage. Soak up the multicultural Balkan flair and try not to be bothered by the crowds! The green cast-iron stalls are almost 100 years old, and the whole market dates back to the 16th century. But the wonderful odors emitting from the stalls are definitely 21^st century. My final stop was Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna's number one attraction (and rightly so). The Habsburg Emperor's summer residence, with its richly decorated salons and beautiful garden compound, brings back Vienna's Imperial past in all its pomp and glory. Tired and footsore, I grabbed a cab and made it back to my hotel, just in time for a slice of Sacher Torte and coffee to recuperate.



For my final evening, I opted to have dinner in a wine tavern set deep in the Vienna Woods, about an hour’s drive outside the central city. Schreiber Haus is a former farmhouse located on the same site for more than 300 years and constantly owned by the same vintner family. No menu, you get what is placed on the wooden table. First the starters, which consisted of a selection of 3 different spreads and a mound of sliced dense, dark German bread, accompanied by a plate of pickled chilis, cocktail onions and baby corn. Then the waitress arrived with a large carafe of red wine, a second with white wine and these are replaced as soon as they are emptied – this place had me at the mention of “unlimited wine”! Entrees are platters of sausage, ham and baked chicken with plates of sliced tomatoes, cucumbers and German potato salad and as with the wine carafes, when these platters are emptied, they are immediately replaced with more freshly-cooked food. The food is authentic Austrian dishes and tasted pretty good, but let’s be honest, when you’re swigging down unlimited glasses of wine, who cares what the food tastes like? LOL. Dessert was warm apple strudel with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. An accordion player sat at one end of the table and very great enthusiasm, worked his way thru his entire playlist during the meal. Very loud at times, making it impossible to have a conversation with my table mates but of course, wine makes that almost irrelevant also. I staggered out of there around 10pm and could barely see….I believe I had a great time, but things are somewhat hazy.



The following morning it was time to make my way to Budapest, capital city of Hungary, where I plan to spend my final few days of the trip, before flying back stateside. Arriving at the Danube just after 11am, I checked in to the K&K Opera Hotel in the center of town and settled in. I have been here many times before, but I always enjoy returning. Budapest is paradise for explorers. Keep your senses primed and you'll discover something wonderful at every turn. The city’s beauty is not all God given; humankind has played a role in shaping this pretty face too. Architecturally, the city is a treasure trove, with enough baroque, neoclassical, eclectic and art nouveau buildings to satisfy everyone. Overall though, Budapest has a fin de siècle feel to it for it was then, during the capital’s golden age in the late 19th century, that most of what you see today was built.



They say the past is another country, but it’s always been just around the corner in Budapest. Witness the bullet holes and shrapnel pockmarks on buildings from WWII and the 1956 Uprising. There are sad reminders like the poignant Shoes on the Danube memorial, but ones too of hope and reconciliation – like the 'sword' of the former secret-police building on Andrassy Boulevard now beaten into the 'ploughshare' that is the House of Terror, with both sides of the story told.



There's a lot more to Hungarian food than goulash, and it remains one of the most sophisticated styles of cooking in Europe. Magyars may exaggerate when they say that there are three essential world cuisines: French, Chinese and their own. But Budapest’s reputation as a food capital dates largely from the late 19th and the first half of the 20th century and despite a fallow period under communism, the city is once again commanding attention. So too are Hungary's excellent wines – from Eger's complex reds and Somló’s flinty whites to honey-sweet Tokaj.



The city is blessed with an abundance of hot springs. As a result, “taking the waters” has been a Budapest experience since the time of the Romans. The choice of bathhouses is generous – you can choose among Turkish-era, art nouveau and modern establishments. Some people come seeking a cure for whatever ails them, but the majority are there for fun and relaxation – though we still maintain it’s the world’s best cure for what Hungarians call a cat’s wail hangover. I’ve made numerous visits to this fabulous city and I can personally vouch for the benefits of hot springs and spa treatments.



There is no doubt Budapest is a beautiful city at any hour of the day, but to be totally awed by her beauty is to see her after dark. And the very best way to do this, is to take a dinner cruise on the Danube which lasts a couple of hours, cruising from the dock to the north in one direction, and returning along the same route headed south. The sheer magnificence of the fully lit buildings on both sides takes your breath away – the Royal Palace, Fishermen’s Bastion, the Chain Bridge, St. Mattias Church and of course, the incredible Parliament building. On my first night in town, this is exactly what I did. The Hungarian food served onboard was excellent, the wine was flowing but nothing compares to the scenery….the photos say it better than I ever could. The cruise boat was once owned by Erich Honecker, a German politician who, as the General Secretary of the Socialist Unity Party, led the German Democratic Republic from 1971 until the weeks preceding the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. From 1976 onward, he was also the country's official head of state as chairman of the State Council. The restaurant section is located on the first deck, the sightseeing lounge area is on the second. It was after dinner that I made my way upstairs and could capture the incredible sights on both banks, using my night landscape camera mode.



As much as I adore Budapest, there is a place just outside the city which is where I spend my final day in Hungary. I have visited here on previous occasions, and a few pieces of treasured jewelry I own were handmade here. Szentendre ('St Andrew') is the southern gateway to the Danube Bend but has none of the imperial history or drama of Budapest. As an art colony turned lucrative tourist center, and easily accessible from Budapest just 13 miles south, Szentendre strikes many travelers as a little too 'cute', and is crowded most of the year. Still, it's an easy train trip from the capital, and the town's dozens of art museums, galleries and churches are well worth the trip. Just try to avoid it on summer weekends. Being early November, the tourist crowds are gone, many of the seasonal cafes and pubs are closed until spring, but this village retains its charm and is getting ready for the upcoming Christmas season. This is where some of the loveliest handmade Christmas tree ornaments can be found at a very reasonable price.



Even the weather decided to cooperate and I was blessed with sunshine and clear skies, but the mercury remained in the high 30’s….it’s still cold! Lunch with hot chocolate at a small café just off the main square kept me going for a couple more hours of wandering the cobblestone streets, and then it was time to make my way to the train station and return to my hotel in Budapest. Tomorrow that aluminum tube will transport me across the Atlantic and home to Las Vegas….another wonderful trip under my belt – only a few more days before the next one. Stay tuned. Cheers……

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Comments

[Virginia Freichels]

Prague
Have been wanting to visit Prague for years - this entry clinches it for me. Thanks,