Sri Lankan Treasures - November, 2017

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Sri Lankan Treasures – November 2017



My fascination with Sri Lanka began while growing up in England, when my mom would tell my brother and I stories of her time spent on this small, teardrop-shaped island nation (then called Ceylon), while serving as a WREN in the Royal Navy. It was also where she met and got engaged to our dad and now these many years later, I get to walk in her footsteps and relive those wonderful childhood tales.



A little bit of history:



Sri Lanka has more than 2,550 years of continuous written history by means of the Mahawansha, and was also mentioned in several ancient Indian texts. One of the most famous is the Ramayana, in which the island, which was referred to as Lanka, was the island fortress of King Ravana. The Sinhalese arrived here late in the 6th century BC, probably from northern India. Buddhism was introduced beginning in about the mid-3rd century BC, and a great civilization developed at such cities as Anuradhapura (200 BC to 1000 AD) and Polonnaruwa (1070 to 1200 AD). Partially occupied by the Portuguese in the 16th century and by the Dutch in the 17th century, the coastal parts island was ceded to the British in 1796, and became a British colony in 1802. The entire island was ceded to the British in 1815. As Ceylon, it became independent in 1948; the name was changed to Sri Lanka in 1972. In May 2009 government military forces defeated the Tamil Tigers' separatist movement and ended a brutal 26 year-long war that began in 1983, thus opening up a new chapter in its history.



Located just 20 miles off the southeast coast of India in the Indian Ocean, Sir Lanka is home to 21 million people. Distances here are short: see the sacred home of the world’s oldest living human-planted tree in the morning (Anuradhapura) and stand awestruck by the sight of hundreds of elephants gathering in the afternoon (Minneriya). Discover a favorite beach, meditate in a 2000-year-old temple, exchange smiles while strolling a mellow village, marvel at birds and wildflowers, and try to keep count of the little dishes that come with your rice and curry. Wander past colonial gems in Colombo, then hit some epic surf. Sri Lanka is spectacular, it’s affordable and it’s still often uncrowded. Endless beaches, timeless ruins, welcoming people, oodles of elephants, rolling surf, cheap prices, fun trains, famous tea and flavorful food make this island irresistible.



Few places on this planet have as many UNESCO World Heritage Sites (8) packed into such a small area. Sri Lanka's 2000-plus years of culture can be discovered at ancient sites where legendary temples boast beautiful details, even as they shelter in caves or perch on prominent peaks. More recent are evocative colonial fortresses, from Galle to Trincomalee. Across the island, that thing that goes bump in the night might be an elephant heading to a favorite waterhole. Safari tours of Sri Lanka’s pleasantly relaxed national parks encounter leopards, water buffaloes, all manner of birds and a passel of primates. You might say Sri Lanka has been hiding in plain sight. Countless scores of travelers have passed overhead on their way to someplace else, but years of uncertainty kept it off many itineraries. But now Sri Lanka has found its place firmly on the itineraries of visitors. The country is moving forward quickly as more and more people discover its myriad charms. Lying between the more trodden parts of India and Southeast Asia, Sri Lanka's history, culture and natural beauty are undeniably alluring. It's the one place you haven't been to yet, but it’s the one that you should seriously consider.



When you’re ready to escape the tropical climate of the coast and lowlands, head for the hills, with their temperate, achingly green charms. Verdant tea plantations and rain forested peaks beckon walkers, trekkers and those who just want to see them from a spectacular train ride. And then there are the beaches. Dazzlingly white and often untrodden, they ring the island so that no matter where you go, you’ll be near a sandy gem. Should you beat the inevitable languor, you can surf and dive world-class sites without world-class crowds. And you're always just a short hop from something utterly new.



The travel day begins as usual, with a quick shuttle drive to McCarran, Delta flights to Detroit with connections in Amsterdam, before finally arriving in Sri Lanka’s capital city of Colombo a few minutes before midnight. Been a long, long journey across the globe and I’m brain fried. Haven’t decided which aches the most right now: my head, my shoulders or my ass. Why is it that my arrival gate always seems to be the furthest away from customs and immigration, requiring a hike when I’m dead on my feet? Thoughts to ponder. But on the positive side, we were the only international flight arriving this late, which meant empty lines and I was in possession of my visa and into baggage claim in less than 4 minutes – definitely a record for 2017! The most prominent sign in the customs/immigration area is “possession and/or use of illegal drugs carries the death penalty” – one unforgettable way to make me feel welcome. Reminds me strongly of Singapore which has the identical message. The Hilton limo driver was right outside the Arrivals Hall and we headed for the garage. Soon as the doors opened, the heat and humidity of this tropical isle slapped me in the face – I really should be used to this by now, but it continues to take me by surprise. Not especially hot – maybe 83f being the middle of the night – but the humidity, well that’s a whole ‘nother story – at least 99% as it wasn’t raining. In a nano second, every pore on my body had popped open and sweat poured out…..here we go again, LOL. At least it took my mind off the numbness and pain of the aforementioned head, shoulders and ass.



Slipping into the blessed air conditioning of the hotel’s limo, I thankfully sank into the deeply- cushioned leather seats and gulped down an entire bottle of ice water, as the driver began our 45-minute drive into the city center. As is my general routine, I check into the best Hilton-brand hotel I can find and that becomes my base of operations. This trip, the Hilton Residences will get to host me for the next week. I’ve been assigned a beautiful suite on the 28^th floor of this 30-story building, overlooking Beira Lake and just a couple of blocks from the harbor and the shores of the Indian Ocean. The views from the window are incredible, I can see for miles across the city. On the coffee table a platter of fresh fruit, slices of sticky toffee cake and a bottle of Merlot – is this a great country or what? First things first as always, and I grab my toiletries bag and turn on the shower full blast to cold. Just standing under the large rainfall shower head washing away two days’ worth of travel stains – I just might survive after all…..and the super comfy king-size bed is calling my name.



I struggled to open my travel-weary eyes a few hours later, with bright sunlight peeping around the sides of the blackout curtains. I only got 6 hours of solid sleep, need a lot more to feel anywhere close to human again, but it’s a start. Coffee (lots of it) with maybe a bite of breakfast is first up on my day’s menu, and I make my way on unsteady feet to FLOW, the onsite restaurant located on the lobby floor. I knew I would like this property when I was informed that everything in the room was complimentary, including contents of the minibar….gets my vote for damned sure. And so my stay in Sri Lanka begins…….



Like so many cities in India and Thailand, the tuk-tuk mode of transportation is also extremely popular in this country. This 2-seater 3-wheeled mini bus, powered by a lawn mower engine, is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get around town – beats a regular taxi by a mile. I decided to take one and explore Colombo, using the driver as my tour guide for a few hours – worked out even better than I expected. I had a choice of 4 tuk-tuks as I exited the hotel early the next day…..one young driver grabbed my attention with “call me Pogo” – how could I resist such an invitation first thing in the morning? I explained what I wanted, we agreed on a price (the equivalent of $10 including tip) I made myself comfortable in his ancient machine and off we went. Pogo turned out to be a gem, a veritable depository of information regarding the city, and I swear he knew every back alley – we must have gone down almost all of them before the day was done. This is such an eclectic city. The mish-mash of colonial British architecture along side wooden shacks and sidewalk eateries all seem to work to form a fascinating locale for any visitor. The ever-present humidity (I don’t think it ever drops below 95% until the monsoon arrives), envelops you in a bear hug and never lets go. The heat is relentless but once the tuk-tuk got up to speed, the breeze dissipated the worse of both and I began to enjoy myself immensely.



Although it's unlikely it will ever reclaim its 19th-century moniker 'the garden city of the East', Colombo has nevertheless emerged as a must-see stop in Sri Lanka. No longer just the sprawling city you must endure on your way to the beaches, it has become a worthy destination in its own right, and makes an excellent start – or finish – to any Sri Lankan adventure. The legacies of colonial Colombo's garden roots are still very much intact along its often-shady boulevards. Fort is a compelling place thanks to ongoing restoration of its landmark colonial architecture, while Pettah brims with markets and rampant commerce. Even traffic-clogged Galle Road is getting spiffier with glossy new hotel complexes. The city’s cosmopolitan side supports ever-more stylish eateries, galleries and shops. Surprises abound: with a little exploration you'll find great local food, characterful shops and tiny, convivial cafes. Meanwhile, a building boom like no other is transforming the city's skyline.



Sri Lanka‘s bustling commercial hub, Colombo is located on the country’s west coast and with a population of between 800,000 and one million (estimates vary), is by far the country’s biggest city as well as the most developed. Its natural harbor at the mouth of the Kelani River, was a magnet for successive traders and conquerors – initially the Arab merchants, then Portuguese, Dutch and British imperialists. The city is a jarring mix of old and new, with a central cluster of high-rise office blocks and hotels overshadowing red-tiled colonial-era buildings and sprawling street markets which overflow with high-piled fruit and vegetables, colorful silks and cottons, and deliciously fragrant spices. On its crowded streets stand places of worship, symbolic of Sri Lanka‘s multiethnic heritage; graceful Buddhist temples for instance, stand close to extravagant temples encrusted with Hindu statuary, along with Muslim mosques with minarets scattered along Colombo’s streets. Its population is swollen by some 400,000 plus commuting workers during the day and is virtually empty after nightfall. There is a lively nightlife at many International standard hotels, clubs, pubs and dining venues, while it is limited mainly to the high-end customer. During the day, Colombo’s colorful street markets, colonial-era buildings, museums and galleries, churches, mosques and temples, and the lovely Viharamahadevi Park with it beautiful trees, makes it a great place to explore on foot.



Originally named Kolomthota, Colombo was the main seaport of Kotte, the country’s 15th and 16th century capital. Known to Arab traders as Kalamba, the city attracted the rapacious Portuguese as early as 1505 AD and became the bastion of their rule for almost 150 years. Surprisingly little remains to attest to this era, apart from a scattering of Portuguese surnames in the telephone directory and a handful of Roman Catholic churches and seminaries depicting their architecture.



The central area of the city is still known as Fort, but the remnants of the colonial battlements have long since been demolished, or incorporated in newer buildings. There are more mementoes of the British period, including the neo-Classical old parliament building, the Victorian-era President’s House (still often called ‘Queen’s House’), and the grandly mercantile brick facade of Cargill’s, a splendid 19th-century department store that has changed little since the 19th-century heyday of Sri Lanka‘s British tea planters.



It's been a great time here in Colombo but time for me to move on to my next destination: Negombo, a modest beach town just 28 miles north on the coast, at the mouth of the Negombo Lagoon. I’m using the Hilton limo service again…..one day spent on a tuk-tuk was enough for this entire trip….my ass still aches. The cost is comparable to a regular street taxi and far, far more comfortable overall. Yeah I know, I’m spoilt rotten. I’m retracing the route I took in the same limo from the airport a few nights ago, but now I can see it all in broad daylight.



With a stash of decent hotels and restaurants to suit all pockets, a friendly local community, an interesting old quarter and a reasonable (though somewhat polluted) beach, Negombo is a much easier place to find my Sri Lankan feet than Colombo. The Dutch captured the town from the Portuguese in 1640, lost it, and then captured it again in 1644. The British then took it from them in 1796 without a struggle. Negombo was one of the most important sources of cinnamon during the Dutch era, and there are still reminders of the European days. The busy center of the town lies to the west of the bus and train stations. Most places to stay, however, line the main road that heads north from the town center, with the beachside hotel strip starting about a mile north of town.



The hordes of international tourists who descend on the town annually are merely the latest in the long line of foreign visitors who have done so much to shape Negombo’s decidedly cosmopolitan history. The town was one of the first to be taken by the Portuguese, who converted many of the local Karavas, and the area remains a stronghold of Christian Sri Lanka, as borne out by the imposing churches and florid wayside Catholic shrines scattered about the town and its environs. The Dutch transformed Negombo into an important commercial center, building a canal (and a fort to guard it) on which spices were transported from the interior to the coast prior to being shipped abroad. Nowadays much of the town’s economy revolves around tourism, although fishing also remains vitally important, with the sea providing plentiful supplies of tuna, shark and seer, while the lagoon is the source of some of the island’s finest prawns, crabs and lobster.







With the crazy midday traffic of Colombo, it is 2 hours of hectic driving until I arrive at my next hotel, the Heritance Negombo Beach Resort. This stunning property was built just 18 months ago in preparation for the hordes of locusts (aka tourists) who are looking for more upscale beach front accommodations, but still close to the center of the city’s night time action. As I entered the massive open-air lobby, I had an awesome view of the sparkling deep blue Indian Ocean virtually on the doorstep, with more than a dozen wooden sailing dhows bobbing offshore. I was directed to a comfy lounge chair while my check in preparations were handled at the front desk. Next up, a chilled wet hand towel and a champagne flute of frosted watermelon juice. Less than 10 minutes later, Shakila the concierge, personally escorts me to my suite…..OMG, did I just die and go to hotel heaven or what? First the large balcony which overlooks the ocean…..waves breaking on the sandy beach less than 200’ away. White wicker table and lounge chairs beckon me to come sit and dream outside for an hour or so, but first I want to explore this fabulous room. The king size bed is positioned directly in front of the balcony with the headboard serving as a partition to the bathroom area, which is enclosed in frosted glass. This is total celebrity treatment with world class customer service. As with the Hilton, all contents of the minibar are complimentary and this one contains wine, beer, soda and a selection of snacks. Yes, its refilled every morning! The hotel’s signature color is purple, even the bath slippers are purple plastic flip flops, and the shower puff (in place of face towels) is the same color, as are the individual soaps. My favorite part of the room is the wooden 5-blade fan directly over the bed – tropical to the max. This is a 5-star joint plus, for sure. It’s still hot and humid, but constant offshore breezes make it tolerable and almost comfortable (take note, I said almost).







As sunset approached on my first evening here, the temperature dropped considerably along with the humidity, and it turned into a glorious time to be out on the balcony taking photographs. In the tropics it doesn’t take long to go from full daylight to full dark, but what a display Mother Nature puts on during this short time period. I watched as a liquid gold pathway formed from the shoreline to the horizon, finally merging with the disappearing blazing orb. The rest of the ocean turned a silvery gray as twilight crept across the palm trees, slowly erasing the brightness of the sandy beach and coating the world in a deep purple haze (wasn’t that a Prince song?).







Breakfast the following morning was enjoyed on the outside covered verandah, under a fan, drinking excellent coffee and downing thick, creamy yogurt topped with fresh blueberries…I’m a happy camper. It’s overcast, rain could be on the way, but on occasion the sun breaks thru the clouds and lights up the beach. Vendors already on the sands hustling for the tourist dollar…nothing new there. A visit to the local fish market located next to the lagoon, gave me a strong “eau de pisces” from the rows upon rows of freshly-caught fish, prawns, lobsters and crabs. Somewhat quiet being a Sunday – most of the fishermen were in church, temple, mosque etc., praying for another successful fishing week ahead. The fishing boats were stacked one upon another along the banks, painted in every rainbow combination imaginable. A heavy rainstorm had swept thru just a short time previously, freshening the air a lot but of course, adding to the ever-present humidity. Surprisingly, I don’t find the humidity levels even close to those I endured on my recent south India adventure….this climate is easy to tolerate.







The first “highlight” of this current trip happened today – Kaudulla National Park which is located about 17 miles north of Harbarana, the next stop on my itinerary. Sri Lanka is known for many things especially its range of largest safaris and the beautiful city of Harbarana. You can simply enjoy a stroll through this city by witnessing the numerous contrasts of green and ethnicity of the whole country. The elephant being one of the most significant animals there – there are numerous other animals that can also be viewed up close.







The city is quite small when compared to its geographical occupation in Sri Lanka. Situated in the Anuradhapura district, the city is perfect for tourists, as not only is there a range of varied activities that they can choose from but also has numerous mid-range and up hotels aimed at package tour group tourists. Avid travelers will find out that Harbarana also serves as a departure point for numerous locations of greater interest, the major one being the Minneriya sanctuary that takes visitors through the beautiful and rich flora and fauna that is singular to the place. Minneriya National Park located in the north central province, attracts many visitors because of the wild elephants gathering on the grass fields. Elephants have become a significant part of the park as there are over 700 wild elephants that dwell within these premises. The elephants thrive on the Minneriya Tank; the water sustains the forest and is the main source of survival for all the other animals. The park is also home to two endemic monkeys; the purple-faced Langur and Toque Macaque. These two are some of the most endangered primates in the world. It is entertaining to watch them in their habitat as these lively monkeys always swing on branches and chase each other around the trees. Bird watching is another activity while at the park. The Sri Lankan Hanging Parrot, Grey Hornbill and Jungle Fowl are some of the birds found here.



The gathering of safari jeep vehicles was the first clue to my day’s fun activities, and piling into one along with 5 other very enthusiastic tourists, we set off to explore the wonders of Kaudulla. Kaudulla National Park was established in 2002 to provide another link in the migratory corridor for elephants, connecting with Minneriya and Wasgomuwa national parks to the south, and Somawathiya National Park to the north and east. As at Minneriya, the centerpiece is a lake, the Kaudulla Tank, where elephants collect when water dries up elsewhere. The best time to visit is between August and December, with elephant numbers peaking in September/October (slightly later than Minneriya’s “Gathering”). Outside the dry season much of the park is under water, and elephants can be more difficult to spot. Other wildlife inhabiting the park’s mix of grasslands and scrubby forest includes sambar deer, monkeys and the inevitable (but very rarely seen) leopards and sloth bears, plus a characteristically wide array of bird life.



For the next two hours, it was bouncing from side to side along a dirt road filled with enough pot/sink holes to make even Florida envious. Views of at least 45 elephants in their natural habitat, a crocodile in a nearby river, numerous monkeys and, as far as I’m concerned, the world record for a hornet’s nest – I kid you not, that sucker was huge! The lush jungle growth often swept over my head threatening to leave bald spots, but that just added to the glamour of the ride. The first 45 minutes was spent under the jungle canopy, but once the jeep entered the savannah section of scrubby grassland, the large group of elephants appeared at the watering hole, totally ignoring us as they had a few babies in their midst. Standing up on my seat, I was able to photograph these magnificent beasts in all their glory….took so many pix, I had to stop to change batteries – my camera was smoking by this time. The females stayed in their small family groups of 3 or 4 animals, while the lone males roamed around apparently seeking dates for the evening but that wasn’t happening. Close to sunset, we began the long drive back to the hotel in time for dinner – what a fantastic day.







Next morning it was time to visit an authentic Sri Lankan village, Hiriwadunna, a tiny settlement of less than 2,500 people where they grow all their own food, raise cattle and barter for their daily needs. This was reached via a “ferry” which, by the time I boarded this mode of transportation, was a far cry from my definition of same. Two small kayaks served as pontoons with wooden planks down the middle posing as seats and hand-paddled by the owner. As we moved out onto the lake, a massive dark cloud rolled over the area and the oncoming downpour was like a freight train headed right in my direction. The noise was incredible, and I had less than 20 seconds to cover my camera, grab my little umbrella and huddle under this meager protection before the storm hit hard. It was literally a wall of cold water – a total deluge – must have lasted at least 10 minutes in full force. My head and shoulders remained relatively dry, but the rest was soaked down to the skin – I was dripping wet along with everyone else sitting around me. What a hoot, but on the positive side, it dropped the air temperature drastically and I was cool for the first time since leaving my room’s a/c comfort. See, there is always a bright side….LOL Lunch was served in a villager’s adobe-walled, thatch-roofed hut and cooked over a wood fire. No plates here thank you very much, it was a large lotus leaf on which rice, fried fish and salad was served, buffet style. Dessert consisted of lime bananas and fresh pineapple…..now this is the way to live, if only for an hour or so.







It rained off and on for the rest of the day. Can’t really complain as this is the first day I’ve had to deal with the wet stuff….hopefully it will clear tomorrow, as I begin my trek to the next destination. Leaving early the next morning, it’s a couple of hours drive to Kandy, up in the hill country of Sri Lanka and the “dry” region of the island. On the Kandy-Dambulla Road is a hidden gem of a spice plantation and restaurant which is a MUST stop for a delightful meal. I had the most incredible experience at Euphoria Spice and Herbal, a female-owned business (very, very unusual in this patriarchal society) formed only four years ago, and is now run very efficiently with a small staff, including a husband and a mother. The 50-acre property has been in the family for about 60 years, and is now a working dairy farm, a multi-spice plantation and Aroma Restaurant, serving authentic Sri Lankan meals, located in the middle of the lush cinnamon section of the property. Open every day from 8:30am to 4pm, consider taking a walk along the spice trails with expert onsite guides. Cinnamon, aloe vera, cardamom, cloves, coffee, curry leaves, ginger, lemon grass, turmeric, nutmeg….and the list goes on and on, all these marvelous scents permeate the air…..the smell of curry cooking in the restaurant, will send your taste buds into a total tizzy! After stuffing myself with what is the very best meal I have eaten since I arrived in Sri Lanka two weeks ago, I made my way to the onsite store where I stocked up on spices and Ceylon teas at incredibly low prices. This must be one of the top spice plantations in the region (in my opinion, its #1)….do not miss it on your next visit here.







Around 5pm I arrived in Kandy and checked into the Ozo Hotel, located atop a hill overlooking the large lake in the central part of the city. I made a quick trip up to the rooftop bar to take some stunning photographs of the city just after dark. The temperature and humidity had dropped to a level which made being outside a total pleasure for a change.



Some days Kandy’s skies seem perpetually bruised, with stubborn mist clinging to the hills surrounding the city’s beautiful centerpiece lake. Delicate hill-country breezes impel the mist to gently part, revealing colorful houses amid Kandy’s improbable forested halo. In the center of town, three-wheelers careen around slippery corners, raising a soft spray that threatens the silk saris worn by local women. Here’s a city that looks good even when it’s raining. And when the drizzle subsides, cobalt-blue skies reveal a city of imposing colonial-era and Kandyan architecture, none more impressive than the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of Buddhism's most sacred shrines.



History and culture are on tap. Yes, the city is renowned for the great Kandy Esala Perahera festival (held annually in July/August), but its vibrant cultural life and attractions more than justify a visit at any time of year. Kandy is one of the most beautiful cities of Sri Lanka that is known for its scenic beauty and rich cultural value. Spread over an area of around 1200 square miles, it is counted amongst the world heritage sites of UNESCO. The city promises many tourist attractions that include the Old Royal Palace and the famous Temple of Tooth. The latter consists of the sacred relic of Buddha’s tooth because of which, Kandy is regarded as one of the most sacred places by Buddhists. Other holy spots include the Gadaladeniya Temple and the Lankathilake Temple.



The Old Royal Palace of Kandy is a treat for sore eyes and a treasure trove for history lovers. On one hand, you have the Queen’s chambers and quarters of the concubines and on the other, there are the armory and council chambers. If you pay a visit to the city, you must go to the Royal Botanical Garden that boasts of several tropical foliage. It is intriguing to know that the garden once served as the regional headquarters for the allied forces at the time of the Second World War. You also have the Embekke Temples which are decorated with complex wooden carvings of musicians, dancers, birds, wrestlers and beasts. Kandy offers an exciting shopping experience with souvenirs ranging from precious stones and handmade laces to stone and wooden carvings.



My first full day in Kandy dawns bright and clear….so much more comfortable than down by the coast. I enjoyed a good breakfast on the open-air verandah, before boarding the tour bus for a ride to a vantage point even higher than my hotel. From the viewing platform, the downtown central part of Kandy is visible and in the morning sunlight, again I got some dynamite photos, including the large lake. From here it was off to the world famous Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, This golden-roofed temple houses Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – an actual tooth of the Buddha. During offerings or prayers, the heavily guarded room housing the tooth is open to devotees and tourists, however, you don’t see the tooth. It’s kept in a gold casket shaped like a stupa, which contains a series of six dagoba caskets of diminishing size. As well as the revered main temple, the complex includes a series of smaller temples, shrines and museums. The complex can get crowded as it receives many worshippers, tourists, back packers, Chinese and Western tour groups and Thai monks all jostle for space. It is mandatory to wear clothes that cover legs and shoulders, and shoes must be removed. At the entrance to the temple, everyone is personally inspected for correct attire by private security guards.







Last stop of the day was of course, shopping. Kandy’s Central Market is a very typical third-world chaotic scene, but bargains are here to be gained if your bartering skills are up to speed (mine always are!). I wanted those coconut-shell spoons I had used having lunch at the Euphoria Spice and Herbal Plantation, and once I found a vendor selling a variety of them, I was off to the races. Finally, I purchased 17 of these in various sizes – I have a couple of friends who are excellent cooks, and along with the spices and teas I got a couple of days ago – they will make marvelous gifts. It took about 30 minutes, but I was able to barter down the price from 3,000 rupees to 2,220 (approximately $14)….I’m a happy camper.







A long drive awaited me the next morning, but one of picturesque beauty winding through the hill country of central Sri Lanka. I thought San Francisco’s Lombard Street was winding – it has nothing on this road! The switchbacks would have made James Bond proud (from the movie Goldfinger) – and being a narrow 2-lane highway, made it all that more exciting and exhilarating. Rows upon rows upon rows of tea bushes march across the mountain sides, as far as the eye can see. Puckers with their sacks on their backs, throwing in the tender leaves to make their 40kg (approximately 88lbs) daily quota to get paid. Cresting the mountain peaks at approximately 7,000’, I was deep in the pine tree woods, planted by the British to prevent soil erosion during their rule here. The air was crisp and cool – so reminiscent of an English summer climate. Reaching Ramboda, stopped at the Glenloch Tea Plantation and go to take a walk thru the factory to observe the processing of the leaves and how they are graded and packed for shipment. Before departing the factory, I had samples of Ceylon teas….really delicious…..and I’m not a tea driver much at all.







Arriving in midafternoon at Nuwara Eliya, I checked into the Araliya Green Hills Hotel, a former colonial mansion, now a luxury hotel located on the hillside above the town. Often referred to as ‘Little England’, this genteel highland community does have a rose-tinted, vaguely British-country-village feel to it, with its colonial-era bungalows, Tudor-style hotels, well-tended hedgerows and pretty gardens. Indeed, Numara Eliya was once was the favored cool-climate escape for the hard-working and hard-drinking English and Scottish pioneers of Sri Lanka’s tea industry.



A recent construction boom has blighted the scene to a degree, and the dusty and bustling center is a thoroughly Sri Lankan urban tangle, but it still makes a fine base for a few days' relaxation. The verdant surrounding countryside of tea plantations, carefully tended vegetable plots and craggy hills is highly scenic. Treat yourself to a night in one of the many colonial hotels, play a round of golf or a few frames of billiards, and soak up the town’s unique bygone heritage.



This is the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea county, surrounded by breathtaking views of bright green rolling hills, meadows, mountains and rushing waterfalls….it really isn’t hard to imagine this entire region being picked up and dropped down in England and not look out of place. Walking thru the town center, the old red brick Post Office and nearby country houses, evoked nostalgia of Colonial British Ceylon at the time my parents were stationed here.



A short “tuk-tuk” ride brought me to the Holy Trinity Church, an Anglican church just outside down town. On 5 May 1845, a committee comprising of local prominent residents, met to discuss the construction of a church for the city, at an estimated cost of £900. A Captain Nelson designed the building with the construction work done chiefly by the officers and men of the local garrison of the 15th Regiment. On April 18, 1954 Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip attended services here, with the Queen gifting a blue carpet and a stained-glass window in remembrance of their visit. In 2001, the 100-year-old Pipe Organ, which had been out of order for over 30 years, was restored at a cost of approximately half a million rupees. I closed out my day here, by stopping by the local supermarket and loading up on more spices at a ridiculously low price (on average, 50 cents per package).



A great night’s sleep aided with the windows wide open to the night air, I awoke the next morning to brilliant sunshine and a cool breeze. Today I’m moving on the next agenda stop, Yala National Park and for a change, I’m taking a train in place of a bus. It was a long traveling day, but at least I got to sleep in before departing to the train station at 11:30am. What a pleasant change from Indian railways….I still have nightmare visions of the grossly disfigured beggars in Agra surrounding locals and tourists alike, as they attempted to reach the departure platform. In stark contrast, this was a virtually deserted station, quiet and tranquil….flower boxes on each window of the station buildings, and no trash to be seen. I had a reserved seat in the air-conditioned first-class carriage, and after a 15-minute delay, the train finally rolled into the station.



The next three hours were spent in relative comfort next to the relatively clean window, viewing the downhill run to Ella, the gateway to Yala National Park region. We made probably 4 stops in small villages, each with their own tiny station platform and each clean and garbage free….quite impressive. On both sides of the train were sweeping vistas of deep valley gorges and soaring velvet-green mountains, tumbling waterfalls at least 100’ high and more, with the ever-present light mist enveloping the scene. The entire journey only 45 miles distance, but the number of mountain ranges to cross, makes the trip sometimes as long as 4 hours. It is reputed to be the most scenic in all of Sri Lanka and possibly the world – I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if this were true, the journey was spectacular. Ella is a small town situated at an elevation of 3,419’ above sea level. The area has a rich bio-diversity, dense with numerous varieties of flora and fauna. The town is surrounded by hills covered with cloud forests and tea plantations, with a cooler climate than surrounding lowlands, due to its elevation. The Ella Gap allows views across the southern plains of Sri Lanka.



Back to the bus for another 3-hour run to reach the Cinnamon Yala Hotel, set just outside of Yala National Park, in the middle of nowhere. A true wilderness where, starting tomorrow, I will ready for my leopard safari.



Yala is Sri Lanka's most famous national park. Forming a total area of 1,268 square miles of scrub, light forest, grassy plains and brackish lagoons, it's very rich in wildlife and I’m told I’m virtually certain to encounter elephants, crocodiles, buffaloes and monkeys. It is the most visited and second largest national park in Sri Lanka, bordering the Indian Ocean. The park consists of five blocks, two of which are now open to the public, and adjoining parks. The blocks have individual names such as Ruhuna National Park and Kumana National Park or 'Yala East' for the adjoining area. It is situated in the southeast region of the country, and is located about 200 miles from Colombo. Yala was designated as a wildlife sanctuary in 1900, and, along with Wilpattu, was one of the first two national parks in Sri Lanka, having been designated in 1938. The park is best known for its variety of wild animals. It is important for the conservation of Sri Lankan elephants, Sri Lankan leopards and aquatic birds.



An interesting fun fact about Yala: the monstrous tsunami of 2004 struck the park on that fateful day of December 26. Some 250 people in and around the park were consumed by the rampaging waves, also forever changing the land features of Yala’s coastal belt. The most fascinating discovery in the tsunami’s aftermath was that no animals were in harm’s way, prompting a theory that ‘sixth sense’ of animals took them out of the path of on-coming waves. Findings based on two elephants with electronic collars, suggest that reactions based on quick comprehension of clues may have prompted all the animals to escape the waves; a faculty that didn’t help people. A tsunami memorial is constructed at Patanangala, reminding visitors of the devastation it caused and the lives it took.



I departed from the lodge lobby at 2pm in the safari vehicle and took the back seat with the highest elevation for the best photo opportunities. For the next 4 hours, I rode around the Ruhuna National Park, seeing an incredible amount of wildlife including elephants, crocodiles, wild boar, wild buffalo, spotted deer, painted storks, toucans, hornbills and a variety of birds in a rainbow of brilliant colors. Unfortunately, no leopard sighting the entire time, but it was still fantastic. It was a cool, overcast and rainy day for most of the four hours, but the rain would ease off at times as though to give everyone in the jeep a break. The vehicle did have a solid roof but wide-open sides, and the cross ventilation was great, keeping me very comfortable. I took so many fabulous pix, I used up the camera’s total battery charge…..some of these photos are incredible. We were driving on pathways full of pot holes – many of which were filled with rainwater – did not exactly make for a smooth, relaxing ride by a long shot. However, the trip was so incredible, the violent shaking of the vehicle most of the time, was well worth every bruise I collected. The safari jeep began the homeward run just as it began to get dark, around 6pm.



My next-to-final agenda stop is up next – Koggala, where I check into the Long Beach Hotel, a beachfront property with fantastic ocean views, but the place really sucks. Very old building (they said it was the upgraded section…if that’s the case, I would hate to see the original one!). Thankfully only a couple of nights here before I return to Colombo….can’t come soon enough.



On the bright side, I discovered paradise at Koggala Beach, which has the honor of being the longest beach in Sri Lanka. In very close proximity to the popular Unawatna Beach, Koggala is uncluttered as a tourist destination and mostly unexplored. The soft sandy pristine beaches beckon visitors to travel just that little bit further down south to indulge in a heavenly holiday filled with endless sand, surf and sun. A place rich in history and beauty, with its calm blue mangrove fringed lagoons. This still mainly undiscovered gem of Sri Lanka offers a delightful time, filled with activities such as diving, snorkeling and surfing. And of course, seemingly endless hours of warm sun to gain that perfect tan. If a more secluded beach with all the trimmings is on the menu, then Koggala is the ideal option. Imagine the warm soft uncluttered beach and the azure waters of the Indian Ocean and you have paradise on your doorstep. Too bad this description doesn’t match my hotel….LOL



Galle is considered a jewel in Sri Lanka’s crown. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this historic city is a delight to explore on foot, an endlessly exotic old trading port blessed with imposing Dutch-colonial buildings, ancient mosques and churches, grand mansions and museums. Wandering its rambling lanes, you'll pass stylish cafes, quirky boutiques and impeccably restored hotels owned by local and foreign artists, writers, photographers and designers. Built by the Dutch beginning in 1663, Galle's core is the Fort, a walled enclave surrounded on three sides by the ocean. A key part of the Fort’s appeal is that it isn’t just a pretty place. Sure, tourism now dominates the local economy, but this unique city remains a working community: there are administrative offices and courts, export companies, schools and colleges. I’m utterly seduced by the city’s ambience, and its undoubtedly southern Sri Lanka's one unmissable sight.



The second most impressive sight in the Galle area are the “stilted fishermen”. This is no ordinary fishing, there might be several methods of catching a fish but this one is mind-boggling. Fishermen in Sri Lanka use stilts to catch a fish. Yes, stilt fishing is an old tradition practiced by around 500 fishing families. It had disappeared after the 2004 tsunami that struck Sri Lanka and other countries bordering the Indian Ocean, but resumed after things got back to normal. It’s a beautiful sight looking at fishermen balancing on a thin plank, but at the same time it’s tough too. All this effort and toiling only to preserve their old customs.



They usually fish during sunset, noon and sunrise, with each one taking their elevated position and balancing about 6’ above the water. There is a vertical pole affixed to the sea bed, with a cross bar called a petta, on which the fishermen do the balancing act. With one hand they hold the stilt and the other hand they have a fishing rod or a line to catch spotted herrings and small mackerels, which are then kept in a plastic bag tied around their waist or the pole. Earlier bags woven out of coconut leaves were used, but now they use discarded plastic bags. Why don’t they use nets instead? If the tradition is being carried on for so long, there must be some reasoning behind it, right? Stilt fishing is done close to the shore and is unobtrusive, so the fish stay around for a longer time because they don’t get disturbed. But with nets, if the fish gets disturbed they may not return for a long time. The fishermen of Galle don’t mind sitting for long hours to get their catch, and it seems they don’t use any bait either on the hook. No one seems to know how long this practice has been around, but it is certainly unique to this part of Sri Lanka. Unfortunately, such traditions generally are threatened due to commercialization, as the building of hotels close to stilt fishing areas, swimming tourists leads to disturbing the fish and driving them away from the coral reef.



An interesting twist to the hotel saga. I guess my scathing Tripadvisor review was read by the powers that be….mid afternoon on my last day, I’m suddenly upgraded to a one-bedroom suite with a stunning ocean view, two televisions, incredible (and stable) Wifi signal and a super comfy queen bed. It’s true, all’s well that end’s well….but I ain’t changing my review, no matter what. LOL



Leaving this hotel from hell the following morning, I began my trek back to Colombo and preparations for the flights home in a couple of days. First, an hour-long boat ride on the Madu River, about an hour’s drive away. The bio-diversity of the Madu River is of monumental signification when considering the wide ranges of aquatic and avian life, as well as wetland dwelling amphibians, reptiles and mammals that inhabit the environs of this natural treasure. A total of 11 species of agnatic mollusks and 14 land dwelling mollusks are found in this system. 70 species of fish, 31 types of reptiles, and 50 kinds of butterflies are just some of colorful array of wildlife that inhabits this abundantly bustling eco-system. For bird watchers, 111 species of bird have been identified in the mangrove-formed environs of the river, and have been known to host several types of migratory birds.



Apart from the ecological treasures to be sighted, the river safari also appeals on a level of historical and cultural experiences, with visits to the numerous islets and atolls that are scattered along with the river. Around 25 such landmasses reportedly have been found in the Madu river, with some of these islets being home to local communities who have traditionally inhabited these areas, and are engaged in the lucrative trade of cinnamon peeling. After stopping at one small hut on stilts in the middle of a large lagoon for a fresh coconut, the boat finally ended back to the dock.



Completing my circular adventure around this incredible island, it was time for the final 2-hour bus trip back into Colombo, where I started over 3 weeks ago. Right on time, the heavens darkened, the clouds gathered, and rain started just before we arrived in the capital city. Checking into the Zmax Hotel in the downtown section, I got a great night’s sleep – considering I would be in transit for the next 31 hours, I need all the zzzz’s I can get ahead of time. This has been an amazing time….met some lovely people and made a few friends. But all good things must always come to an end, and in a few hours, I will be climbing aboard my first of 3 long flights across the globe….Las Vegas, I’m coming home!

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