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Published: September 2nd 2015
Camino sign leaving Roncesvalles
The start of Karen's camino de santiago.22 August 2015. Roncesvalles to Akerreta GPS 18.63 miles, 7 hours 45 minutes walking time, 11 hours from start to finish.
Saturday, August 22. Roncesvalles to Akarreta - 19+ miles Fitbit data 45609 steps, 19.9. Miles, stairs/floors 186
790 kilometers to Samtiago
This is a day of downs and ups; walking not emotions. We leave about an hour later than we thought we would as the thick walls and shutters provide an ambiance conducive to sleeping in---and the alarm does not go off! Not having luggage is the only downer we want to acknowledge.
The Sorginaritzaga Forest, meaning "oak wood of witches" was where some of the most well-known witches' covens of XVI Century were held. It is a beautiful wood and leads to Burguete, a lovely village, perhaps most well-known for its association with Hemingway. After the excesses of the San Fermin festival with the running of the bulls and much drinking in Pamplona he would retreat to this lovely town for its quiet ambiance and excellent fishing streams. He referred to the general area as "the most wickedly wild and savage territory of the Pyrenees."
Burguete is known for its architecture and a cluster
Hemingway at Hotel Burguete
A favorite spot to relax and catch trout of historical buildings have been declared an 'Asset of Cultural Interest.' The houses are 'Pyrenees-style with hipped roofs that shelter walkers as they pass by. The corners of the buildings are stone and have a very sturdy appearance. Walls are freshly white-washed and stand out from the red tile roofs. Most houses have weather alcoves at the front door--all point to extreme winter weather. But at the moment it is a sunny day and flowers are everywhere.
We pass on to a neighboring village, Espinal, and have breakfast on the plaza that is undergoing some 'deconstruction' work. We start out with the requisite coffee con leche and thick buttered toast. We decide to then move on to some eggs and ham but something is lost in the translation and we receive two big slices of ham and one egg instead of vice versa! But they have a stamp for our Camino Passport.
Refueled, we march on westward! Exactly one half mile out of our way! We must become more observant of our surroundings! When a lady motions back to where we have come from, we see the trail, snaking up the green hillside! As we start up the
Library in Espinal
My Librarian instinct finds one everywhere. incline, on the 'right' path, there are gunshots. We have seen the 'no cazar'-no hunting signs but evidently someone does not know it is 'out of season.' One feels as if they are a moving target as they trek upward toward a forest.
Today is a day with a little push behind it. Late in the afternoon a storm is to move through the area. Two times, big rain drops fall. The first time we walked on a few minutes and then decided to dig through our backpacks for the rain jackets. Of course it then stopped raining. The second time we just walked on, and again, the drops cease. However the sky is darkening.
We stop in Zubiri and have our favorite drink, tonic water with lemon slices. We ask to see the Pilgrims' Menu and after some discussion of items on the menu we are told it will be two and a half hours before it is served! We have a laugh and carry on. A small sporting goods store, that is just opening up after siesta, yields nothing we can use as replacement for items in our still lost luggage.
We take pictures of
Boots by the Way
Encountered on each stage, one or more abandoned boot or shoe. Puente (bridge) de la Rabia. It is a medieval bridge over the Rio Arga At the edge of Zubiri. There is a legend that any animal led 3 times around the central arch would be cured of rabies. We will become very familiar with the many vagaries of the Rio Arga as we cross and recross the river. The water is beautifully clear.
Our guide book says that if you are tired you might think of staying in Zubiri but our reservation is on down the road 6.5 more kilometers. And yes, I am tired,( see the quote for the day).
We walk adjacent and through parts of the huge Magna plant, "Magnesitqs de Navarre." It is rather eerie as it is the week-end and there is little activity. I think it would be a super setting for a Sue Grafton mystery novel.
One guidebook has said that no matter the distance covered in a day, the last four kilometers seem endless. It is certainly true today! The beautiful Hotel Akerrata is only 0.8 kilometers beyond the little village most pilgrims will stay the night. Only 0.8 kilometers and it is uphill all the way! This is
Puente de la Rabia
The garden at the bridge another of the series of hotels called "Posadas del Camino."
We arrive, quite disheveled, to find others having a drink on the patio. They have obviously showered and look quite presentable. I am so tired I can barely utter a greeting and head for a shower.
The lodging is a beautifully restored Basque Country house. The manager, a family friend of the owners, was asked to restore and operate it as a lodging. He has done a masterful work of art and it could appear on the cover of Architectural Digest. The house is about 300 years old and we are in the upper story. The use of massive beams of beautiful wood is extraordinary. There are beautiful views of the countryside.
The dinner is superb and then it is off to try and organize our few possessions.
The quote for the day, "why aren't we staying in Zubiri!?"
End note: yes, we beat the rain but the thunder, lightening and rain was ongoing when we fell asleep.
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Jo Finestead
non-member comment
El Camino
What a great write up. Definitely remember the forest and the awesome bridge. Did you encounter any bikers on the trail headed down to Zubiri? I had lots of them and the almost ran over several people. Glad you liked Hotel Akerreta! Look forward to reading more of your blog!