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Published: September 3rd 2015
Hotel Akerreta
The interior showing the basque wood detail in the hotelSunday, August 23. Akerreta to Pomplona - GPS 12.5 miles, 4 hour 30 minutes walking time. Duration 7 hours. Plaza de Castillo
Fitbit. Miles 12.14. 27,782 steps
Stairs 58 floors
I open the shutters to a beautiful day. Across the camino path, in front of another lodging, pilgrims are being led in exercises before their group starts out. Actually it is a very basic and thorough stretch class and I participate from our room.
As we leave the hotel several groups of pilgrims (Peregrinos) are walking by as they have stayed in Zubiri or Larasoana. We take a photo of the patio area where the scene from The Way of the four main characters coming together is filmed. Just down the path a Basque farmer - perhaps the father of the family that operates the hotel - is speaking encouragement and 'Buen Camino' to all who pass. He is behind a gate near a cow pasture and barn. I ask and he obliges in letting me take his photo.
The anticipated storm had rolled through in the night. I had been getting our few possessions organized when I thought, "Wow, are those planes overhead?" Then the
Balcony vew from our room
Hotel Akerrata looking out over the valley wind really arrived in full force and it was if we were in a wind tunnel. We are on the top floor of the old house and the ceiling is the roof, covered in tile. Now the rain arrives and what a racket. People in the region have experienced a dry summer and this rain will be welcomed and we are happy that it has come at night and not when we are on the trail as it is a hum-dinger of a mountain summer storm!
Today we arrive in Pamplona for a visit with Inez and Inigo. They had stayed with us in Las Vegas several years ago. They had taken a year off to come to the states with the intention of exploring as many regions of our country as possible, particularly our national parks. They were most delightful guests and we are looking forward to seeing them.
An interesting day as we start out in the bucolic countryside and end on an historic square in Pamplona. As the author of our tried and true guide book says, regarding the re-entry into the hustle and bustle of the city, "Trust in God and tether your camel!"
Main entrance to Hotel Akerrata
A pilgrim emerging for the day. Had to ring the bell since I forgot to get our Camino passports stamped. There is a certain feel in the air that is an indication of Fall arriving. A few trees have a few leaves falling and there are bright red leaves along the trail. Later in the day I catch a glimpse of one of my legs as I stride out. I have unzipped the lower part of the trousers and removed them. The bright red splotches are way too familiar and I think of the old saying, "Leaves of three, leave them be!" Sure enough, come evening my gams are more red than flesh color. Fortunately they do not itch a great deal!
We wend our way along the River Arga to Arre. In the latest edition of John Brierley's guidebook he lists a new option for the approach into Pamplona, the riverside path - Parque Fluvial. We follow the linear park all the way until we cross the historic Puente de la Magdalena. We do not enter the city through the legendary Portal de Zumalacarregi - Portal de Francia - but turn the other direction and follow the wall that surrounds the city. We enter into the old portion of the city that is closer to Inez and
Karen ready for the day
Well maybe a little sore from yesterdays marathon walk. Inigo's apt. In the process walking by the Plaza del Toros.
We find Plaza del Castillo with one corner anchored by Hotel Perla; this is where Hemingway stayed while in town for San Fermin festival, more popularly called "The Running of the Bulls."
We call Inez and Inigo and they are in the square in just a few minutes.
They have a home on a quiet street just off the square in the old part of the city that is enclosed by high walls. Inigo's family bought the apt. twenty years ago for his two older sisters to use when they went into Pamplona for higher education. Six years ago, Inigo and Inez bought the apt. from his parents. There is an entry, a small room that Inigo uses as a home office, a small bedroom, a master bedroom, a small kitchen that has a table and also the washing machine. The sitting area is very sparse with only a leather sofa, and a bean bag. An entertainment unit takes up one wall. There is a room between the master bedroom and living room that has a wall of closets and a dresser. There are also storage
View of the courtyard
The scene of the meeting of the main characters from the movie, THE WAY. units along the hallway. The apt. Is light and airy, probably 800 -1000 square feet. Inigo is currently the chairman of the owners' association. One unique feature is an elevator for the building. Inigo said an elderly lady had an apt. and became incapacitated to the extent she needed an elevator. The residents voted to be assessed for one and it is very unusual for a building in old town to have one. When I asked how they managed to install one Inigo said they were fortunate in that the original stairwell had been quite roomy and grand and they were able to use part of that area for the elevator--very nice!
We were awakened each morning at 6:30 by soulful Argentinian music coming from the apt. above us. Inigo and Inez laughed and said several of their guests had said the same thing. They have not heard it as they have not had their master bedroom for some time. They had hoped to be in the U.S., traveling for a year. They had been told it would not be a problem but after four months, when they started the mountain of paperwork for the extension, there seemed to
Our Basque cheering squad
This little man said buenos dias and buen camino to the throng of people who passed this morning. be many problems. Finally, a few short days before their date for leaving would expire, our government said an extension would not be granted and they had only a few days in which to leave the country---don't let us get started with issues we have had with some of our government agencies!! As they had leased their apt. for a year they had to move in with Inigo's parents for six months. Then all the parties they had stayed with in the U.S.
started to cycle through and visit them in Pamplona. Someday they will fully reclaim their home!
We went out this evening and had typical Basque food in the neighborhood. We also walked in the area, seeing the colorful Town Hall located next to the excellent Tourist Information. Along the side of the Town Hall is the route where the bulls run. Inez and Inigo try and leave the city for San Fermin as they feel it is not a place they want to be at that time.They said a new government has limited the number of any new liquor licenses that will be granted in hope that some of the disagreeable aspects of the revelry
will be tamped down somewhat.
Wow, what a varied and lovely day--welcome to Pamplona
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