He seemed unfazed by our canoe rounding one of the early bends of the Manu River. I am sure he had seen us before we spotted him. After taking a long, bored look at our gawking faces, he simply stretched, yawned, and then languidly rose to his feet to disappear into the jungle. A jaguar! And we had just begun our adventure in Peru's Amazonian headwaters... With almost no turn around time, a subset of six from our Inka Trail group set forth on a very different adventure, an excursion into the Manu National Park in the Peruvian Amazon. Our legs still shaky from climbing around the Andes, we boarded a 12 seater bush plane and rose above the western Andean cordilla. Below us, glacier streaked mountains gave way to clouds pushing, unsuccessfully, at the preciptious
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