Blogs from Carretera Austral, Aisén, Chile, South America


South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral January 2nd 2015

27 décembre 2014 - Jour 71 En quittant notre hôtel ce matin, nous nous rendons à la place du village pour acheter du pain à la boulangerie pour notre pic-nic. Mais on ne trouve pas celle qu'on nous a indiquée et alors qu'on fait demi-tour dans les rues désertes pour la chercher autour de la place, on se fait arrêter par la police. On a vu de nombreux contrôles aléatoires sur la route mais c'est la première fois qu'on se fait arrêter. Merde, on était dans une rue à sens interdit! Les villes sont construites à l'américaine, en quadrillage, et à chaque croisement il faut regarder dans quel sens va la rue, il y a des flèches pour l'indiquer à chaque coin. C'est moi qui ai dit à Alex de tourner ici car il y avait ... read more
Cerro Castillo
Laguna Verde (encore une)
Bateau pour aller au glacier

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 26th 2014

22 décembre 2014 - Jour 66 Ce matin on se rend bien en avance au terminal pour être sûrs de pouvoir avoir des places dans le bus pour la frontière. Comme il n'y en n'a pas beaucoup et que c'est bientôt Noël, on a un peu peur qu'il soit bondé. Mais tout va bien, il y a assez de place pour tout le monde. Une fois à la douane, on fait les formalités habituelles de sortie et d'entrée, police, immigration, etc. Il y a d'abord eu le mec du Chili qui m'a agacée à apposer son tampon n'importe où dans mon passeport alors que je m'étais donnée beaucoup de mal pour qu'ils soient tous chronologiques jusqu'à maintenant. Mais ça c'est rien à côté de la crise que j'ai failli piquer avec la douanière qui a fouillé ... read more
Rio Futaleufu
Maison gardes parcs
Paysage patagon

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral November 24th 2014

We have all arrived in Chaiten, the Chilean town that was covered in volcanic ash during the 2009 volcanic eruption, at that time our 2009 Patagnia Expedition was booked in for a nights stay, but we had to divert to Trevelin in Argentina. Five years down the track and I found the town to be one of the most depressing places I have been to, that said, it has been a huge struggle for the residents, as many died and the town was evacuated and basically left to rot away, but the people wanted to return to what they had, so the government began a clean up program and this is ongoing today, but the people living here, some in third world conditions look and feel happy enough with the progress. The ride through the Carretera ... read more
So only 3704 kms to Arica
Another glecial river
Angel Falls

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral November 18th 2014

We finished the road that almost (apart from the small matter of some ice fields) unites the Chileanos. The Carretera Austral, from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins skirts the majestic southern Andes range and the northern ice fields to penetrate deeply into Chilean Patagonia. Along the way it crosses some seriously impressive terrain with soaring mountains, rushing rivers, calving glaciars, volcanoes, vast lakes and mighty forrests. We left Futaleafu in great spirits having enjoyed the sunshine and snowy mountains, a walk through the snow to Eagle Rock and the charming company of our young guide at the rapids on the mighty Futa river. Our journey south took us through farming country and so many snowy peaks and lovely little rivers, we got a little tired of the words "wow" and "beautiful, "que lindo" in Spanish. But ... read more
Lago OHiggins
Ventisquero Colgante
It's Spring time!

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral February 19th 2014

After a five hour ferry journey, where we watched penguins and dolphins float by, we arrived in the small and slightly strange town of Chaiten, ready to head down the Carretera Austral. The Carretera Austral is a mainly gravel road that travels around 1240 km south from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins, connecting up some of Chile's most isolated settlements. We knew bus services did exist on the road, but they apparently could be few and far between and very busy, so we were told only try to travel this route by public transport if we have a lot of time and patience. On trying to leave Chaiten, the rumours of the lack of buses were proved to be true, as it turned out there was only two buses per week going south and the next ... read more
The enchanted forest
Experiencing Patagonian rain
Windswept Coyhaique reserve

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral February 17th 2014

Itinerario: 11/02 - Chile Chico - Acampada en medio de ninguna parte (34 kms, ripio suelto y viento fuerte en contra) 12/02 - Acampada - Puerto Guadal (72 kms, ripio suelto hasta Mallin grande, luego ripio compactado) 13/02 - Puerto Guadal - Pato raro (45 kms, ripio suelto) 14/02 - Pato raro - Cochrane (40 kms, ripio suelto) 15/02 - Cochrane - Río Barrancoso (45 kms, ripio suelto) 16/02 - Río Barrancoso - Caleta Tortel (82 kms, ripio compacto, los últimos 12 kms ripio suelto) ... read more

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral December 23rd 2013

In the "cone" of South America, i.e., Chile and Argentina, Chile's Carretera Austral is the Southern Highway attracting backpackers, camper van enthusiasts, motorcyclists, and bicyclists from all over the world. There is actually a small stretch of Chilean highway further south closer to Tierra del Fuego but the Carretera Austral is much more scenic. I had surprisingly excellent weather during 2+ weeks in Patagonia. But now in the Lakes District, and last week in Chiloé, the weather has taken a turn for the worse - very cloudy, cool, and rainy which is reportedly typical for this region although that's not what I remember from my stop in nearby Pucón in December, 2004. Bummer. Last blog entry for 2013. ¡Tengan feliz año nuevo, amigos! And of course... GO PATRIOTS! US$ ≈ 530 Chilean pesos (CL) ... read more
Puerto Río Tranquilo
Lago General Carrera

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral March 29th 2013

Momenteel zetten we onze avonturen verder in Zuid-Amerika. Het derde verslag met heel wat foto's van de afgelopen 6 weken in Chileens Patagonia vind je op for english version of this entry with more pics, please visit read more
Rio Ibanez basin.
Packrafting Rio Nadis.

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral February 29th 2012

As far as the inhabitants of Chile's Aysén Province are concerned, they don't really live in Chile at all. "Acá no es Chile. Es Patagonia.", they say. How very true that statement would turn out to be. Over four thousand kilometres long, with its capital city more or less slap bang in the middle, with its southern tip within striking distance of Antarctica and its northern one in the rainless desert of the altiplano, nudging Peru, it's no wonder that Chile's more peripheral regions feel, well, rather far-flung. As a result of Chile's utterly bizarre geography, a crazy beanpole of a country if ever there was one, its provinces are numbered as well as named - from number I in the north to number XII in the case of Magallanes, far in the south. Aysén is ... read more
Punta Arenas to Coyhaique
First day on the Carretera Austral
Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo

South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral March 19th 2011

After getting to the Carretera Austral at Villa O'Higgins we got on the road north towards Cochran which is about 260km away. Route 7 is 90% unpaved, with a stretch of tarmac around Cohaique, so it's quite a bumpy ride. The good thing is that there's so much water around we hardly have to carry any as we can fill up at any time and there's virtually no pollution so no need to filter it. We met a group of scottish cyclists on the way who told us about a town called Tortel. It's about 22km off the main road but they told us it is worth the detour. It's built in the hillside of a bay and all the houses are connected by a series of wooden walkways which wind like a maze over the ... read more
Aline and Jeremy in the distance

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