Blogs from Copacabana, La Paz Department, Bolivia, South America

All the travelling with food poisoning and then a cold have taken their toll so I’m taking a ‘duvet day’. So while the old man sets off on a boat ride to an island full of steps, I take a stroll along the lake, then return via reception, borrow a Judy Finnigan from the library and settle in my deckchair overlooking the lake. I have a pleasant day reading and watching the many hummingbirds in action. In the evening we go to dinner. As we pass the resident llamas I point and say “and you can f*** off too” not realising that I’m actually pointing at a lady in a hammock. Luckily she sees the funny side and when we bump into her in the restaurant 2 hours later, she’s still laughing at me. We return ... read more

We have to admit, we were a little unsure about visiting Bolivia... It isn't a country known for its luxuries (carrying ones own toilet paper everywhere is a must!) and having heard horror stories of friends being robbed there, we were definitely more than a little apprehensive. We didn't get off to a great start - with a 5 hour delay at the border crossing from Chile. But once we got going, Bolivia completely blew us away! We spent our first few days in Bolivia on a salt flats tour. Starting in San Pedro in Chile, we drove up through south Bolivia over 3 days stopping regularly to marvel at the various volcanoes, lagoons and beautiful landscapes we were passing en route. Our tour finished at Salar de Uyuni - the world's largest salt flat (the ... read more

Après une nuit dans le bus et le passage de la frontière bolivienne sans difficulté, nous arrivons sur la presqu'île de Copacabana. Le défi des notre arrivée ? Trouver un hébergement à peu près propres et qui propose des tarifs abordables. La mission semble délicate, on discute de notre stratégie et programme autour d'un bon petit-dej' avec Camille et Ju'. Une fois installés, on fait un tour dans la petite ville construite au milieu du Lac Titicaca qui marque la frontière entre Pérou et Bolivie. Étrangement les locaux rencontrés ne sont pas très accueillants, nous décidons alors de nous renseigner pour rapidement aller se balader sur l'Isla del Sol Isla del Sol Baluchons sur le dos et ticket de transfert en poche, nous arrivons au nord de l'île après 2h30 de bateau et quelques aléas mécaniques.L'Isla ... read more

THE CULT OF PACHAMAMA...Catholicism Unplugged. Cusco in Peru was a stopover to kill some time. Some say "When in Peru, Cusco is the place to be". But when winging it, it was to us, only a maybe. So locked our gear at the bus station and to the Plaza de Armas for a look around. Spanish cathedrals boasting of colonial excesses of the past...smiling like powerful masters built to last. Catholicism in all its splendour. Yet that first look hid a spiritual under-belly that was there for all to see...but only if one is awake enough to reflect...and if like us...in amazement...to so see. An under-belly that threw our perceptions of Catholicism into disarray. And so I present our findings. But please...we beseech the faithful...I do NOT shine light on this to cause you to stray. ... read more

There is something about nature, making it almost better to be traveling solo. There is something about sitting by that immense lake solitary and small. But it's all for you. And you become timeless and the lake is finite. I walked around the lake this afternoon until I found a spot free from the crowds. There I sat for over three hours as I watched and waited for the sun to set and plunge into Titicaca. It was in turns exhilarating, thought provoking, and as if I was participating in a ritual that has been going on for millennia. There is something about this place that feels like it has always been here and will continue going its way regardless of who is in charge. The Spanish didn't defeat them. They are still here. There is ... read more