By the light of the full moon, the Garganta del Diablo looked eerie, mythical, surreal. Majestic, terrifying, unforgiving, relentless. Words simply can’t capture the noise, the immensity, the power. Water poured over the edge below, around and beyond us, an incredible stretch of foaming fury that, moments before, had flowed along its course serene and impassive. The travel gods had been good to us that day. Back in January, I’d booked us a couple of days at the Iguazú Falls as a fun place to spend Jo’s 19th birthday which would fall shortly before we began our overland adventure. That our arrival would coincide with the full moon – come to that, that there might even be “moon walks” to the Falls on the nights around each full moon – had not even flitted through my
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