Gill Goes ... Trekking The Bibbulmun Track End To End Again... Day 4... West Cape Howe to Denmark via Nullaki

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July 27th 2020
Published: February 8th 2021
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Day 4

West Cape Howe to Denmark via Nullaki 27.1km

Treated to a very pretty sky leaving WCH. I'm on a mission today as Geoff is going to meet me somewhere near Pelican Point to provide a ride into Denmark. Having a scheduled meeting always adds a little bit of stress to a days hiking, especially with our track record of getting lost, having no signal, not actually talking about the same place to meet despite both thinking it is the same place, etc, etc, etc. I also hate making time commitments as I tend not to plan how long 17km will take me to walk, to remedy this I generally give a time adding about 2 hours more than I calculate my speed to be- removes the angst... a bit. The trail from WCH to Nullaki isn't particularly arduous, easy walking under overcast sky. Apart from the ocean views it's great to be looking inland at the greenery of the pastoral land. Some impressive banksia groves and I reach the ridge with views across the Wilson Inlet after about 3 hrs (14.5km mark). Pull into a deserted Nullaki shelter at 11:30 for an early lunch and a bit of a break. Getting into the shelter wasn't completely intuitive this time, I thought I came in on the spur trail but I'm pretty sure was actually an animal track. Lunch today is a tin of tuna (that I have been carrying from Albany, knowing I can dispose of it in Denmark), a wrap and my last boiled egg (4 days old!). I'm pretty sure there was a chocolate bar in there too. I take a full hour's break in this pristine shelter and have a read of the red and green books- the weekend has been busy, most people mention the mosquitos,eventually they drive me off too.

Leaving Nullaki is straightforward, the main feature (apart from the chain link fence surrounding private property) is the deafening chorus of frogs. It is possibly the highlight of the day. I can't embed a video into this blog so you'll have to believe me, it was great. Bitumen road (!!!!) appears as well as other signs of civilisation - vehicle noise, poles, signs, etc. And out of nowhere is a familiar vehicle. The rendezvous is made without incident! We plan to meet at the Nullaki Wilderness gate and have a coffee- I bought Geoff one of those minipress things, it's very good and a nice change from the instant of the last few days From Eden Road, where Geoff parked, to the gate is through some peppermint thicket with it's typical sandy soil - some good fungi spotted. Back to the coffee- it was a bit short lived as the bench/table was tick infested!!! Well, there were 2 that I spotted.

I continued on around the foreshore as the wind picked up and the sky got blacker and blacker. It's a really beautiful walk past private jetties and pelicans, lots of long grass but easy to navigate. Almost gale force winds as I got to within 2km of Pelican Point and then it started pelting- 20 minutes of torrential rain before I reached the shelter. Dutifully signed in before braving the storm again and making a run for the truck. Completely drenched we drove into Denmark to the Rivermouth Caravan Park. Took a powered site for $41, Geoff popped the camper thing up while I hit the shower. We were quite close to the shower block- very clean and spacious, freezing cold inside but good hot water and really modern. Tried to get my clothes dry in one of the dryers without much luck- the inside of the camper turned into a bit of a drying room as it continued to pour most of the night. In retrospect a room would have been good but I thought they were too expensive (around $140/n). Drove into town to the pub for a steak, rested and raring for tomorrow.

**** Notes on the crossing of the Wilson Inlet are detailed on the Bibb track website, last time Mark from The Blue Wren Hostel did a shuttle service for $50/car, Geoff was free 😊

Snake Count- 0 (0) but 1 wild cat and a million frogs

Tick Count- 2 (5)

Fall Count- 0 (2)

Other People in the Shelter Count- 0 (0/4), didn't actually see a soul all daywhile hiking

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