Like two knights dueling for the hand of a fair maiden, so has Sir Mexico risen to battle for the affection I so recently declared for Guatemala. From the first real encounter with Mexico, at the bus station in Tapachula, I should have realized I had just entered completely different territory, as the terminal was clean, orderly, computerized, efficient, and had toilet paper and soap in the bathrooms. However, after surviving a nail-biting journey to get there .... fights breaking out on the bus to Tecun Uman, warnings about the danger of crossing the border at that hour, missing the last bus to Tapachula and being stopped 3 times by armed police on my solitary taxi ride in the dark .... I wasn't really in the analytical frame of mind. I got to the bus station
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