Blogs from South Greenland, Greenland, North America


North America » Greenland » South Greenland » Narssarssuaq August 29th 2019

Het is nog geen jaar geleden dat Facebook mij de suggestie deed om lid te worden van de ‘Arctic Circle Trail-groep’. Mijn interesse was gewekt en ik kwam erachter dat deze trail zich in Groenland bevindt. Oké, bij Groenland denk ik aan dure georganiseerde reizen, maar je kunt er dus ook prima op eigen houtje naar toe. Als je van lopen houdt en het geen probleem vindt om in het wild te kamperen, hoeft zo’n reis niet eens zo heel veel meer te kosten dan je vliegticket en een enkele overnachting met bed en douche in de bewoonde wereld. Wel handig om voor het westen en zuiden van Groenland te kiezen, tenzij je graag op het menu van de ijsbeer wilt staan. Zo vertrok ik dus richting het sfeerloze, lelijke Kangerlussuaq, dat aan het begin van ... read more

North America » Greenland » South Greenland » Qaqortoq August 28th 2019

Our second port of call in Greenland was Qaqortoq. It is a town of about 3,000 on the Julianehåbsfjord (Juliana Fijord). Formerly known as Julianehåb, it was founded by the Danes in 1774 as an outpost for the sealskin trade and is now the fifth largest town in Greenland. Qaqortoq is a town of blue and red buildings dotting a rocky landscape. The only access to Qaqortoq is by sea or helicopter. The are no cross-country roads in Greenland and Qaqortoq has a heliport, but no airport. As we were arriving, an Air Greenland helicopter took off. The port could not accommodate a ship the size of Caribbean Princess, so we tendered from the ship to the ferry dock. (The lifeboats were used as tenders.) Qaqortoq is small enough to be walkable. A visitor information centre ... read more
Qaqortoq Visitor Center
Caribbean Princess
View Across Qaqortoq Harbour

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 27th 2019

August 26, 2019 – Scenic Cruising of Prince Christian Sound, Greenland – Weather: 39°F/3°C, sky clear and sunny, wind 5.8 mph inside the sound, humidity 55° This morning we cleared the storm that had buffeted us all day and night yesterday. As we approached the south-eastern entrance of the sound the sky was clear with the sun shining and warming us even though there was still a stiff cold (39°F/3°C) breeze flowing over the deck. The crew had opened the starboard hatchway leading to the viewing area on the bow and the breeze rushed into the ship refreshingly chilling everyone on the fourth deck. As with our passage through the sound back on August 8ththe Captain took a leisurely pace of 5 to 10 knots with several stops along the way to get in close to ... read more
2_Resident bergs
3_Ice and rock!
4_Ice meets the sea

North America » Greenland » South Greenland » Qaqortoq August 27th 2019

August 27, 2019 – Qaqortoq, Greenland– Weather: 39°F/3°C @ 7:00 am, 48°F/9°C 2 noon, partly cloudy, wind 5.8 mph, humidity 55° Today’s port of call is Qaqortoq, Greenland situated on an island along Greenland’s southern coast. Originally, we were to have stopped here on the outward journey back on August 7thbut the itinerary changed and the stop was moved twenty days on to today. The name Qaqortoq, which means “white”, aptly describes the landscape that is dotted with outcroppings of white granite. Originally settled by the Vikings the current settlement was founded by Danish and Norwegian colonists in 1775. Today approximately 3,000 inhabitants call Qaqortoq home. Situated along the shores of a natural harbour the town stretches up from the shore and into the surrounding mountains. Colorful houses and other bui... read more
2_Smaller ship at pier
3_About half our size
4_Colorful town

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 15th 2019

Today was a very relaxing day on the boat. Other than 3 meals today, looking for whales (never saw any), watching movies, spotting occasional icebergs, and just hanging out there’s not much to do on this boat. It’s not like cruise ships: no casino, pool, spa, exercise room, nightly show, etc. It’s just a transport boat. The highlight today was a visit to the bridge. We were able to ask the captain lots of questions. Turns out we are in water that is too shallow for whales, so hopefully we will see whales north of here. We travel at 11 knots, the water is about 48 meters deep (when we were there), and the water temperature is 3 Celsius. The boat made 3 stops today at different villages. I think the villages are cute, but I ... read more
Stop at Paamuit
The Bridge

North America » Greenland » South Greenland » Qaqortoq August 14th 2019

Today we had a pleasant day in Qaqortog. We had a leisurely morning and met at 10 a.m. Jan took us to the tannery where we had a tour. I have difficulty with this because it is a tannery for seal skins. I understand the subsistence aspect of it and that Inuit have been making sealskin clothing for eons, but I don’t like the fashion part of it. I remember years ago Greenpeace would try to block people from clubbing the young harbor seals. There was so much protest the sales of sealskin products decreased. This tannery sells their products to Greenland, Iceland, and Europe only. The sealskins are brought here (the only tannery in Greenland) by the hunters, and are processed here, taking 3-4 weeks before they are ready for sewing. The skins can come ... read more
Sealskin Diorama - painted on the sealskin
Sealskin Diorama - painted on the sealskin
Sealskin Diorama - painted on the sealskin

North America » Greenland » South Greenland » Qaqortoq August 13th 2019

Then wind was still whipping crazy with whitecaps and vapor coming off the bay. Jan had to make alternate plans for us to get to Qaqortoq. The original plan was for a boat to pick us up in Igaliku and transport us to Quqortoq, stopping to see a church ruin. But the wind dictated we weren't going to do that. Plan #2 is to go up & over the ridge by the same route we had walked previously and catch a boat there. The boat ride would take longer, but would be safer. After lots of discussion they decided to give us 6 and a German couple a ride to the other boat dock, and transport our luggage. We met the boat at about 1:45 p.m., and took a fun, bumpy ride to Qaqortoq, which took ... read more
Our boat for today's journey.

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 12th 2019

Today 4 of us took a 10 mile hike to see Qooroq glacier. Sheila and John dii not go (John did hike a short distance with us and then turned around) because Sheila’s knee is hurting a lot. In the beginning we were hiking on the road, which is quite rocky, and I walked on the grass next to the road. My toe got stuck in a lump of grass and I pancaked face first in the grass. I wasn’t hurt, just embarrassed. This was Fall #1. Angela, Rick, Jan, and I continued on the road up to several small lakes, then climbed up to a ridge. The fohn winds had arrived during the night and were blowing about 35 miles per hour. Jan told us it would get worse. We arrived at the viewpoint where ... read more
Trail marker

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 11th 2019

Today was an adventurous day. It started out with meeting a NASA scientist who measures the effect the ocean has on the glaciers. They were going out that day on an airplane to do measurements. He calls himself “Climate Elvis” and has a patch that says “OMG, Oceans Melting Greenland”. On the map I’ve included there are numbers 1 through 4. That is the route we took today. #1 is Narsarsauq; #2 is Qussiarsuk, #3 is Itilleq, and #4 is Igaliku. This will make more sense as you read on. We checked out of our hotel and got on a small boat to travel from Narsarsuaq across the Qooroq Fjord to Qassiarsuk, just across from Narsarsuaq. This place is supposedly where Erik the Red settled when he went to Greenland in 985. At the dock, Jan ... read more
Local harbor

North America » Greenland » South Greenland August 10th 2019

August 8, 2019 – Scenic Cruising of Prince Christian Sound – Weather: 39°F/4°C, sky clear and sunny in am - partly cloudy in pm, wind 1 mph, humidity 84° Prince Christian Sound wends its way through the islands at the southern tip of Greenland. After another night a fog we awoke to a beautifully clear sky and frosty temperatures. We entered the sound at 7:00 am and exited it around 5:00 pm taking in the beautiful scenery, rugged mountains and glaciers coming down to the sea. Due to the twisting course of the sound the Captain kept the ship’s speed under 5 knots, with extended stops in front of several glaciers for photo opportunities and the fishing village of Aappilatioq (130 pop.) which is situated within the sound. Jessica, the EXC Travel Host provided a running ... read more
2_The Rocks Over Us

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