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Published: June 14th 2017
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I had been meaning to go to St Johns. Just to see it. It is the capital of Newfoundland. But a realization of just how big this island is, and how much riding on the Trans Canada highway I would have to do, just to get to St Johns, made me think of alternatives. Talking with other tourists, I changed the plan. I would now head North up to Twillingate, an old and well known fishing village, and see the sights, and then spend the night at Gander before turning home.
The thing about Mother Canada is that they will take care of you from cradle to grave, as long as you don’t go near a cliff. Twillingate light house is set on some of the sharpest, steepest granite cliffs I have ever see, that drop hundreds of feet to the sea. With the wind whipping in from Greenland across the Atlantic, one’s balance is precarious. After viewing the house, one can walk over and view the cliffs, if one chooses. There are a few signs saying dangerous cliffs, but no stable pathway with a railing, no ropes, no guardrails, no nothing. One slip could be your last. For those
of us used to taking responsibility, OK. But the younger generations have to be carefully watched.
Up on the North coast, at a place called Boyd's cove, there is an interpretation center for the Beothuk. This is the indigenous tribe of indians that inhabited Newfoundland, until the last member of the tribe died in 1829. They kept to themselves as much possible, but were forced into closer and closer interactions with the Europeans. This center, located at the site of an old village, discusses their origins, traditions and way of life. In addition to the arrow heads and dioramas, this location included a spiritual center, where one could go and meditate on being an indian here long ago. I went, and it looked like I was not the only one.
As with the Beothuk, so with the early European settlers of this region. An early settler home in Twillingate has been turned into a museum, showing how English their life was in this remote location, 100 years ago.
This section of the North coast, considerably further south than St Anthony, was also beset by pack ice. All tourist trips were stopped, and all commercial fishing was also
stopped, which was worrying local people.
The Gander airport was worth seeing. They have a memento from the Twin Towers and 9-11. The place hasn't changed much since the movie I saw about the Landing of the 39 planes here after 9-11. The folks at the Gander Hotel also had received medals and mentions. The hotel is now a Quality Inn, though, so the old traditions are slowly dying. As was I, that night. I had chanced to book in on the night of 3 conventions being held at the hotel. The group on my hall was from the PC Party, which partied on until 10:30pm. They did close it down and go to sleep eventually, which I was grateful for.
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Harry
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Is that a bird, Jim Coates or a native?
Maybe it's Tim Horton. If I ever go there I'll know the best places to hang out and meditate. Twillingate seems like the place to be.