After spending the night in my hotel room packing the gifts and souvenirs I'd bought, the women came by for a visit to reopen them all over them and interrogate me for shopping information. Alas, after they rampaged through everything, I started to repack as I chainsmoked. Our last visit around Esfahan was to the Friday, or 'Jome' Mosque. This, Seyed explained, was a transliteral error by westerners, for its original name is 'Jame' - 'large, everyone's' Mosque. This Mosque happened to be partially damaged from the bombings during the Iran-Iraq War. JAME MOSQUE - Its entrance marked by the presence of hanging chains, signifying it as a sanctuary for all who seek it. Being the largest and oldest of the mosques in Esfahan, it housed numerous interesting architectural features. For instance, its original columns
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