After my trip to Bethlehem, I spent a few days in Jerusalem before returning to Amman, Jordan. The word "Jerusalem" means "city of peace," a place where people of many faiths can coexist peacefully. Unfortunately, Jerusalem has often been anything but a city of peace throughout the ages, with Jews, Muslims, and Christians each claiming it as their own. The Old City Jerusalem is split into East and West: West Jerusalem is Israeli. East Jerusalem is Palestinian. Between the two is the Old City, a fascinating mix of cultures and religions. The Old City contains four quarters: Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Armenian. To make broad generalizations, the Christian and Armenian quarters are quiet, relaxed, and filled with churches. The Muslim quarter is the liveliest by far, containing numerous souqs (markets). The Jewish quarter is full of
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