Blogs from Iran, Middle East - page 42

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Middle East » Iran » South » Kerman October 9th 2007

Kerman Day 1 The bazaar and the Ganj Ali Khan Square: Kerman is quite an idyllic place. It is a mid size town/oasis on the foothill of the Payeh mountains which is a continuation of the Zagros Mountains in the west. The hightes peak stands above 14 thousand feet. The city dates back to antiquity, it being located on the major Asian trading routes. The city's elevation is 6 thousand feet and is relatively dry. The temperature on arrival is 73 deg F, and the air is clean. The folks here speak Persian in their own dialect and are very friendly. From the airport immediately head to the city center and rent midrange hotel in the center of town close to the bazaar and the street where I grew up. As I head back towards the ... read more
The Ganj Ali Khan Sqaure
Kerman Bazaar
Ganj Ali Khan Bath Museum

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 8th 2007

Brief History and city layout First thing I get asked by poeple here is what I think has changed in the past 27 years. First things that comes to mind is is that there are twice the number of poeple in the country, (times 4 in the capital), and twcie the number of cars. I leave the rest up to you to imaginge how things have changed. Modern Tehran has never been a historical town. The original Tehran which was made Capital by the Qajars a century a two ago was confined the central and southern parts of the city which contains the only remaining monuments in the city. The areas is one of the only regions of the city which has retained its historical flavor and architecture, even that is under assault now by the ... read more
Park of "Dialogue"
Vali Asr Ave.
Tower of Milad

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 6th 2007

Day 4 Tehran to Demavend. The Demavend peak is a spectacular site to watch. On clear days it is easily seen in the Tehran's northeastern skyline. It stands above 18000 feet and even in this latitude and beginning of the fall it is covered with snow. It is a cone shaped structure and is an active volcano. It is a about 60 km north east of Tehran and the road that takes you there cuts though the Alborz mountains which is quite scenic. Huge barren mountains surround the road on every side. There are countless small villages and settlements along the way up. My destination is the village of Reineh, which is a launching area for the climbers to the Demavend peak. A small windy side road off the main high way takes you uphill towards ... read more
Enroute to the peak
Ritual Mourning procession
Rudehen

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 6th 2007

Cream and Honey After the 4 hour hike ending around 1030 am, arrive back at the rented lodge, quite hungry. Being the fasting month, all restaurants are closed. Many small convenient stores are open all of which are owned locally. The region is also known for its honey and cream, (asal-o-khameh) a favorite breakfast item in Iran. The cream is taken from 100% pure milk, from non-pasteurized, grass fed cows that receive no growth hormones. The honey is also grown locally, the surrounding mountain meadows which provide a heaven of nectar for pollinating bees. The honey is thick and dark. The lodge next door Before departure I rent a private bath filled with hot local spring water from the guy next door who ends up being my self-appointed driver and guide for the remainder of the ... read more
Ab garm
Ab garm
Ab garm

Middle East » Iran » North » Amol October 6th 2007

Detour to Chelav As we get closer to the coast the vegetation changes and lush green forests fill the land scape, very similar to entering western Washington when crossing the cascades. On the way up we take a small excursion to a small mountain village called Chellav. As we climb the windy treacherous road he takes out a cigarette empties the tobacco, mixes it with some other ingredients, sucks the tobacco back through filter into the cigarette and starts smoking it. To my utter amazement all this is done while he continues talking non-stop, and driving with his knee and elbow, albeit very slowly. Once we reach the village a local tells us of a pretty house on top of the hill which belonged to an Imam-zadeh, (descendant of a Shiite Imam), with great views of ... read more
The lodge next door
The lodge next door
Leaving Ab Garm

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 3rd 2007

On the plain ride from Dubai to Tehran sat next to a Pakistani emigrant to Dubai who regularly travels to Iran as a consultant for an IT company. He said the first time he set foot in Tehran he was surprised as he had conjured a completely different image of Iran. Instead of what he thought would be an underdeveloped backward and oppressive city, he found it to be surprisingly clean, with a vibrant commercial activity, and an efficient high-way system and modern infra-structure, set in a spectacular setting the Alborz mountain range. Indeed the proximity of the city to this mountain range with the highest peak of 18000 feet is its most remarkable feature. But much has changed since I left it in my early teen years.... read more
New airport
The samand

Middle East » Iran » East » Mashhad October 2nd 2007

Incompetent employees make us stay one more week in Iran Although we thought that we wouldn’t write you anymore from Iran… we have to spend an unexpected additional week in (very religious) Mashhad!! It seems that everything was going too well for us till now! Last Thursday, we experienced our first real bad luck during this trip!! This day, we felt that we had enjoyed our 30 days in Iran and, ready to take the flight to Bishkek, we were already dreaming of having a snack without shame during daytime and drinking a fresh beer on a terrace without hijab!! But… all this will have to wait a bit more!! The situation: Nationals from 28 countries can get visa at the airport in Bishkek on arrival of their flight. Switzerland, as most of European countries, is ... read more
Flight ticket changed!
Letter from airline telling we can go to Bishkek!
Diner at home with family

Middle East » Iran » East » Mashhad September 30th 2007

Finally, this is our next blog entry... it took a while and is short wrap up of our last 10 days in beautiful Iran. Esfahan This city is the beauty queen of Iran. We stayed 4 nights but could have stayed a lot more. The biggest attraction is the Imam Khomeini Square. The second biggest square in the world (the biggest is Tiananmen Square in China) is not only huge, but it is surrounded by nice buildings. Among others two of the most wonderful mosques in the whole Islam. We visited both, the Imam Khomeini Mosque and the Sheik Lotfollah Mosque and were deeply impressed. The square is also home to close to hundreds of souvenir shops as part of the bazar and as a tourist you are begged 10 times per day to buy a ... read more
Esfahan - Imam Square with Imam Mosque
Esfahan - Sheik Lotfollah Mosque
Esfahan - Church of Bethlehem in the Armenian neighborhood

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran September 28th 2007

Just a quick update to let my sundry following know that I'm alive and this time actually heading in the direction of China (yeay!) though I've still only made it as far as Tehran... but this is as far east as I've gotten in 3 years on the road, so it's not to be taken lightly. A major milestone. And what I really wanted to say is that travelblog.org seems to be blocked at most internet cafes I've been to here (this is the first one in 2 weeks where it worked), so I know I owe you all an Azerbaijan blog (still unwritten), and an account of what I was doing back in Turkey for the past 2 months (very little), and delightfully original insights and observations about Iran... Stay tuned (but don't hold your ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd September 17th 2007

We have included in this entry a map where you can see our journey of the first 19 days in Iran. Just click on the map to the left. Yazd Although we are on one of the different branches of the Silk Road since we reached Central Anatolia in Turkey we have not yet written a lot about it. Not only Silvan and Annamaria traveled to Yazd but also the probably best known Silk Road traveler: Marco Polo. He passed Yazd in the 13th century and described the city as "a very fine and splendid city and a center of commerce". Marco Polo was much more a traveler than a merchant. Only travelers with a sense of adventure (700 years ago, not necessary anymore today) traveled the whole Silk Road from Europe to China and eventually ... read more
Famous wind tower of Yazd
Yazd - A dressmaker in his quite narrow shop!
Yazd - Our friends from France and Slovenia!




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