Crossing the Alborz, Demovend to Amol.

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran
October 6th 2007

Published: October 7th 2007

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navid

Demovend Peak

A view of the peak on the way up

Cream and Honey

After the 4 hour hike ending around 1030 am, arrive back at the rented lodge, quite hungry. Being the fasting month, all restaurants are closed. Many small convenient stores are open all of which are owned locally. The region is also known for its honey and cream, (asal-o-khameh) a favorite breakfast item in Iran. The cream is taken from 100% pure milk, from non-pasteurized, grass fed cows that receive no growth hormones. The honey is also grown locally, the surrounding mountain meadows which provide a heaven of nectar for pollinating bees. The honey is thick and dark.

The lodge next door

Before departure I rent a private bath filled with hot local spring water from the guy next door who ends up being my self-appointed driver and guide for the remainder of the day. The guy is a smooth talking fellow in his lower thirties with deep set eyes and bony cheeks; he has a well groomed thick mustache which he combs every 20 minutes. Being essentially a barber by trade he owns the only barbers shop for the surrounding villages. He has also been driving passengers in his private car for the past 8

Ab garm

Climbing towrds the main village

years and claims he knows every bump and turn in the road. He has been renting the lodge next door for the past 2 years from which he rents out small rooms to travelers, and also operates the hot spring baths one street below. He is married and has two cute identical twins, age 4. He comes across as a slippery fellow with a shady past and at the same time very pleasant, fun guy to hang with and is full of stories.

Before departure he invites me in. His lodge is in the typical Mazandarani or Giliaki construction. Multiple rooms open to a divan or deck with great views of the valley and surrounding mountains. The houses are built with mud, bricks and wood, and slanting roofs as the area gets a lots of snow in the winter. He invites me into the kitchen located in the edge of the divan, separated from the rest by a curtain. Lunch consists of rice grown in the north of Iran, fried potatoes and locals made yogurt (mast chekideh). The food is in the pot in the center of the spread on the floor and all get to dig in with

Ab garm

Passed the village walking on trail towrads the nearby hills and pasture-lands.

spoons. The living room furniture is comprised of hand made carpets and cushions, and a small television.

Journey towards the coast

We head down the valley on the windy roads with high speed in his small KIA Pride which has a big dent in the back. Throughout the journey he talks incessantly. He relates is dealings with the local police chief and transport of young male and female passengers from Tehran, some without legitimate papers of association, ie marriage license etc, details of which is better left for another occasion.

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