Blogs from Iran, Middle East - page 46

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Middle East » Iran » North » Urmia June 3rd 2007

I always knew my headscarf would never be approved by the government, but never thought I'd be dragged into a room by kurdish girls who'd strip me of my clothes and dress me up in local formal garb! On the way north, we stopped by a little village called Sanjud, who'd rarely seen foreigners. Let alone a mere toilet stop... Farsi is still the official language, and I asked if we could take photographs...a girl told me that all of us foreigners were invited to her little home for chai (tea)! and voila, we walked in...tho it bloody cost me my clothes. I screamed in surprise. Entering an open room with a handsome carpet, I examined the contents of a Kurdish home. A central living room containing no western furniture, but cushions all around the ... read more
Sanjud
Sanjud
Urumieh

Middle East » Iran » North » Urmia June 2nd 2007

30 bedbugs bites were worth lighting myself on fire with scotch and a zippo lighter. But alas, as i wrote in my last blog, the self-bitch-slapping became a way of life as I toured western Azarbaijan to learn about Iran (e.g. random info like why small dogs aren't popular in Iran - mullahs/'teachers' preached that life is better without toying with stupid little bitches, hence it is a rare sight to see any poodles on the street, even in Tehran). Scratching my ass in the village of Takab, I ventured off to the famous sites of Takht-e-Soleiman and Zendan-e-Soleiman nearby. They're remarkable, and worth the bugs. You can even go on donkey rides for $2 climbing up the suicidal steep hills to see the crater of the Zendan, where tourists plummet to their deaths every ... read more
Takht-e-Soleiman
Zendan-e-Soleiman
Takht-e-Soleiman

Middle East » Iran » North » Urmia June 1st 2007

Kurdistan. You're ready to take more sexy daily snapshots. But locals drop everything they're doing just to see you get off your bus. Their jaws drop when you light a cigarette. All school classes come to a halt as kids pour out of their classrooms to see if you're really a fellow human being. Masses of youngens approach you for your autograph while others timidly just snap out there camera phones. Only if you're Eastern Asian in Iranian Kurdistan. I've never been stared at like I had a tulip growing on top of my head, but anything's possible here I learned, alongside uber-cheap gasoline, tulips and illegal whiskeys. Feeling like Elephant Man tiring of crowds, I was 360 degree camera-phone conscious with kids tearing at my clothes while they mimicked Street Fighter Oriental 'Achooooooooooooou' karate ... read more
kids at a Kurdish village
kids at a Kurdish village
Falak-ol-Aflak

Middle East » Iran » West » Kermanshah May 28th 2007

After feeling like dying of sunstroke in the Iranian region of Khuzestan, the friendly bus driver offered me a cup of tea...with literally a handful of bloody sugar cubes that made me assume I was going to become diabetic. Crikey, i suppose this is the local remedy for sunstroke. When I tried to refuse the sugar, I got really scary glares from dear old Amir, who looked like an angry and spicier twin of Super Mario. 50 degrees celsius was like hell, especially when the bus thermometer refuses to acknowledge heat beyond 50, so who knows how hot is was there as I tried my best to check out the ancient persian political capital of Susa? Sadly unlike Persepolis there isnt much to left there except for remnants of walls, a base of a column and ... read more
Where's Wally - I mean, Hercules?
Taq-i-Bustan
Bisotun

Middle East » Iran » West » Ahvaz May 27th 2007

Imagine being in a sauna turned up to the max. Despite the marvellous sites to visit in south-western Iran, I was dying to the point that nicotine addiction didnt take effect, and locals (and tourists) were laughing at how beetroot red i'd become due to the scorching heat. I sadly don't tan due to my dad's genes, I just roast like a suckling pig. In the Persian language, '-stan' is translated to 'the place of'. Hence to this day, we have countries and provinces which used to be part of the humongous Persian Empire, ending with such (eg. Kurdistan - 'place of the kurds'...ok, you got me). My second trip to Iran focused on the west, where it seemed that majority of the provinces were called 'something-a-rather-stan'. Touring around national borders was absolutely fantabulous, as ... read more
Priests' entrance
Choga Zanbil
sexy sundial

Middle East » Iran May 11th 2007

Before my trip, my dad asked me about my next travel destination. I panicked of course, and said a half-truth..."Persia. Yep, sure it's a country". After all, a few years back my parents flipped out when I said I was in Turkey, screaming "WHAT? You're going to be abducted by a carpet-seller who will rename you Fatima and make you his fourth wife!". They knew little about Hanofi Turkey, where it's so lax and westernized without headscarves due to Ataturk's reforms at the turn of the century. So I couldnt mutter the word, 'Iran' obviously. "Where's the capital?" he asked. Uh-oh. I pronouned 'Tehran' in the weirdest possible way that made me sound like Chewbacca with a lisp. He did find out later on, but to my surprise didn't get hysterical. Instead, he recounted his ... read more
Mosque at Shiraz
Ali Qapu palace
At Azadi tower

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran May 10th 2007

So a reader sent me a short youtube link to a redonculous parody travel ad to the Middle East: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_hH1cPRXI0 Sure, it's black humor to it's deepest darkest black hole, but 'oh dear' enough to check out. Thanks for the worries, but Iran's really not all that dangerous once you're there as long as you don't confuse the country's name with its western neighbour's! (it has happened, no joke, at a UN Ambassador's university seminar. The guestspeaker who congresswoman made the mistake was not on 'wanna grab drinks after this gig?' terms with the Iranian UN Ambassador at least. Much of the American media, including the popular Glenn Beck, has said a lot of harmful comments about Iran. I'm a frat-party-ridden college kid so I cannot say that I am a specialist about the country...but ... read more
White palace
world's largest pink diamond
Shah's crown

Middle East » Iran » East » Mashhad May 9th 2007

'Chador', in Farsi literally means 'tent'. It's the huge plain moon-shaped sheet that Iranian women donn themselves with, miraculously keeping it in place without the aid of any buttons or duct tape. Now, if it weren't for all the practice I got during dorm keg 'n' Toga parties and Greek/Roman plays (I knew Shakespeare and Sophocles would come in handy, everything truly does happen for a reason!) I couldn't have managed to drag myself around the Masshad's Holy Imam Reza complex feeling like I was going through one of those Asian 'sweat out the fat' diets for three hours. Rules for female visitors are bloody stricter than anywhere else I visited in Iran, for the reason that it is the third Holiest site for Shi'ites after Mecca and Medina. So for non-Muslims, this is the ... read more
Imam Reza complex
Imam Reza complex
Masshad street scene

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz May 8th 2007

Have you ever been to the UN building's Hall of Nations in New York? I've fortunately had the opportunity to visit it for free since i'm a penniless college kid in Manhattan improving ramen recipes. But anyway, if you have gone there you may have noticed the plaque marked with the following lovely passage: بنى آدم اعضاء يك پیکرند، که در آفرينش ز يك گوهرند چو عضوى به درد آورد روزگار، دگر عضوها را نماند قرار تو که از محنت دیگران بیغمی، نشاید که نامت نهند ادمی "Of one Essence is the human race, Thusly has Creation put the Base; One Limb impacted is sufficient, For all Others to feel the Mace." This is the work of the famous Persian poet, Sa'adi. Iran's produced a number of fantastic writers who're popular amongst both Iranians and ... read more
Statue of Ferdousi
Ferdousi's tomb
Tomb of Sa'adi

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz May 7th 2007

In 333 BCE, Alexander the Great (not Colin Farrell) and his Macedonian troops threw a classical-equivalent of a frat party in the Persian ceremonial city of Persepolis. After all, they had to celebrate their second victory over the mighty Persians! After one too many jolly drinks, an Attic gal by the name of Thais thought it a fantabulous idea to set fire to the city (revenge for the prior burning of Greek temples by the Persians). And so they did. But after the liquor snapped out of Alexander, he regretted it wholeheartedly. It was, after all such a splendid place. Setting off from Shiraz, we visited the ruins of Persepolis. It covers a large block of land, and there are even two royal tombs built into the cliff face looking over the site - smokers, ... read more
Persepolis
Persepolis
Persepolis




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