Blogs from Iran, Middle East - page 4

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Middle East » Iran » South November 19th 2017

Sat 4 November Esfahan to Shiraz After a fairly straight forward, if long, drive we arrived in Shiraz in late afternoon. Another historic city with plenty to see - and we only touched the surface. Just enough afternoon daylight for us to walk to the formal gardens near the hotel; these were nice if quite simple and going into the autumn colours. We also visited the Tomb of Hafez as darkness fell. A nice spot and very popular with locals and tourists. We had dinner near the hotel - Susan managed to order a dish of liver, heart and kidney (she loved it), I had a koobiyeh (simple lamb kebab). Sunday was spent at Persepolis (see separate entry). In the evening we had a walk into town and ended up at the small friendly Café Naqashi ... read more
Masjed-e Nasir al-Molk
"the pink mosque"
Masjed-e Nasir al-Molk

Middle East » Iran » South » Persepolis November 19th 2017

I was oddly anxious about visiting Persepolis. I wasn't sure what to expect in terms of whether it would be a disappointment - had Alexander made such a thorough demolition job in 330BC that there would be nothing worth seeing. In retrospect I needn't have worried, there is plenty to see and it is still an impressive place. Vahid walked us around the main elements of the site - I think we were lucky that it wasn't blazing sunshine at this exposed place. Whilst the buildings are fragmentary there are lots of marvellous reliefs to look at. We then had free time to explore further - Susan went for tea, I went to see the rock cut tombs in the hillside above the site. Going up the hill gave the opportunity to look down over the ... read more
Persepolis - Approaching the platform
Persepolis
The Gate of All Nations

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd November 19th 2017

Tuesday 7 November We left Shiraz to travel to Yazd. En route we stopped at the early Achaemenid ruins at Pasargardae. Not too far from Persepolis this was the city built by Cyrus the Great somewhat earlier. There isn't a vast amount to see at this spread out site - but enough to give an impression of what this could have been like 2,500 years ago. Slightly hard to imagine the gardens that were here in the desert but we saw the irrigation channels. We had a lunch break at a small town called Abarkuh - we saw a very impressive ice house here in the desert. The town also has an old Cypress tree and a tall wind tower... We arrived in Yazd as night fell, staying at the lovely Dad hotel, a converted caravanserai. ... read more
Pasargadae - Tomb of Cyrus
Tower of Silence
Eternal flame (since c470AD)

Middle East » Iran » North » Tabriz November 18th 2017

Tuesday. To Qazvin via Alamut Looking back I can’t work out whether I enjoyed this day. We spent quite some time getting out of Tehran and driving to the outskirts of Qazvin where we changed to a smaller bus to tackle the mountain roads. One of the odd, but nerdily interesting, events was realising, when the driver filled up, that petrol/diesel costs about 6p a litre (compared to around £1.20 in London). Our objective for the day was the Assassin sect’s castle of Alamut. Three hours or so from leaving the motorway we arrived at the foot of an outcrop which seemed to be crowned with scaffolding and corrugated iron….the castle. The surrounding countryside was either bleached by the summer into a pale brown dustiness or covered in trees that were turning beautiful shades of gold ... read more
Alamut
autumn colours near Alamut
Most of the gang at Alamut

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran November 14th 2017

Preamble: I can’t really remember when the idea of visiting Iran first made its way into my head. It might have been over ten years ago when I bought a book on Islamic architecture and gazed at photographs of amazing tilework at mosques in Esfahan. In late 2016 we started thinking of where to go for our next sabbatical and Iran had by then made it to the shortlist. When we started looking at the practicalities we realised that this wasn’t as simple as buying a plane ticket and making it up from there. Politics raised its inconvenient head and as Brits we needed to go on an organised trip. Finding that a visa would cost £165 meant that we wanted a trip that would last a few weeks and found the Explore “Iran in depth” ... read more
Tehran from 12th floor hotel balcony
National Museum
Bowl in museum

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan October 18th 2017

Travelling further south we are aiming for Shiraz, but we have a lot of Persian history to learn about, and see, on the journey. Initially we head into the mountains, passing through remote rural villages - the going is slow. We stop, for an enjoyable picnic lunch, and eventually reach our destination for the night, at a home stay in the small village of Faraghe. We stroll around the village, sampling hot breads straight from the wood-fired ovens, and later sample figs and pomegranates picked from the orchard trees. We enjoy a simple but tasty home-cooked meal around a blazing brazier. The following morning the history commences when we visit the Tomb of Cyrus the Great, the founder of the Persian Empire, a high stone tiered edifice. Iranians are forever drinking tea, lightly spiced with mint, ... read more
Mirror-tiled Interior Ali-ibn-hamzeh Shrine - Shiraz
Eagle head Statues - Persepolis
Reflections at night of the Imam Mosque - Isfahan

Middle East » Iran October 17th 2017

YOU CAN CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE IT, THEN GO BACK TO THE BLOG OR GO THROUGH THE PHOTOS (79 TOTAL - CLICK ON NEXT OR PREVIOUS) IN THAT ENLARGED FORMAT. I PUT LOTS OF INFORMATION IN THE PHOTO CAPTIONS SO YOU CAN SKIP THE NARRATIVE, JUST LOOK AT THE ENLARGED PHOTOS AND CAPTIONS AND YOU'LL STILL GET MORE INFORMATION THAN YOU EVER WANTED. TO RETURN TO THE BLOG ENTRY, JUST CLICK YOUR BACK BUTTON OR ON THE NAME OF THE BLOG, BELOW THE NUMBERS ON THE LEFT. As you have probably figured out, these travel blogs are a way for Bernard and me to keep track of our adventures. I can't tell you how many times we've referred back to one of our over 60 travel blogs looking for various details, maps, dates, etc. ... read more
Roadside Cafe Meeting
Imam Reza Shrine, Mashhad, Iran
2nd Chador and Guide (Mashhad)

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran October 10th 2017

What a thrill to fly from cool autumnal Britain, overnight from Heathrow and arrive at Imam Khomeini International Airport to a cool clear dawn in Tehran. Many of our family and friends were incredulous at our choice of this latest Wandering destination - we are hoping over the next couple of weeks to show what an inspired choice it was!! We are travelling on a Wild Frontiers small group tour, commencing in Tehran and then travelling south through the central and eastern deserts to Yazd, Shiraz and Persepolis and subsequently heading back north through the mountain ranges to the amazing Silk Road city of Esfahan. Tehran is a sprawling metropolis, suffering with dreadful traffic congestion, but the slow moving traffic does allow one to cross the busy roads dodging between slow moving traffic! Between the modern ... read more
Saffron in the Bazaar - Tehran
Mosque - Tehran
Tile decoration Jama ‘Friday’ Mosque - Yazd

Middle East » Iran » North » Mazandaran August 8th 2017

Mazandaran, or Tabarestan in old Persian, was the last Persian stronghold to be conquered by the Arab armies who brought Islam to Iran. Unlike the rest of the Iranian Plateau, the residents of Mazandaran were able to defend their land from Arab invaders for centuries thanks to the natural barriers of mountains and a resilient population known for being warriors. The ancient religion of Persia "Zoroastrianism" was able to hold a majority in the region until the 12th century while the rest of Persia fell quickly to Islam in the 7th century. Mazandaran has many beautiful sites. Within mainland Iran, this area is called "shomal" which literally translates to "north". Many Persians today consider it the most beautiful region of Iran. It's a great area for adventure seekers with lots of jungles, mountains, and of course ... read more
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Middle East » Iran » North August 6th 2017

In Golestan Province, located in northeastern Iran close to the border of Turkmenistan, an intriguing cemetery exists called Khalid Nabi where tombstones are made to look like male and female sex organs. This area is dated prior to the arrival of Islam and has survived nearly untouched due to being in a remote area. From the city of Gorgan in Golestan province, the route to Khalid Nabi is very scenic - rolling green hills, local red flowers called shaghayegh, and fruit trees line the 2 lane road leading to Khalid Nabi. The drive there is approx 2 hours so plan a full day there. The first impression of the site is the abundance of nature's beauty. Set in a backdrop of gorgeous green mountains, you have to be prepared to hike along a mountainous trail before ... read more
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