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November 19th 2017
Published: December 15th 2017
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Sat 4 November Esfahan to Shiraz

After a fairly straight forward, if long, drive we arrived in Shiraz in late afternoon. Another historic city with plenty to see - and we only touched the surface.

Just enough afternoon daylight for us to walk to the formal gardens near the hotel; these were nice if quite simple and going into the autumn colours. We also visited the Tomb of Hafez as darkness fell. A nice spot and very popular with locals and tourists. We had dinner near the hotel - Susan managed to order a dish of liver, heart and kidney (she loved it), I had a koobiyeh (simple lamb kebab).

Sunday was spent at Persepolis (see separate entry). In the evening we had a walk into town and ended up at the small friendly Café Naqashi for a snack.

Monday 6 November

Sightseeing started with a visit to the Masjed-e Nasir al-Molk, with its lovely stained glass windows. We were at the right time to see the light streaming through the windows (thanks Vahid) at this popular location. I think we all took lots of photos, many with other tourists walking into shot.... photo bombing either by accident or intent. A pretty unmissable place if you ever happen to be in Shiraz.

Just down the street we visited the Narenjestan (orangery) an historic house with gardens - and a stall selling freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. We then went to the important Mausoleum of Shah Cheragh. This was a site where we, as non muslims, couldn't enter the actual shrine but could wander the courtyards. All women have to wear a chador so our group were issued with nylon horrors. Susan struggled with this as it proceeded to frazzle her head and brain....

After Susan had a restorative cheesecake and coffee we went to the citadel, inside the walls there are nice gardens and a bathhouse that is worth a visit. We met some local guys who were keen to have a selfie in the bathhouse. For my lunch we stopped off at an unpromising place on the way back to the hotel (we had seen a queue outside here last night). It turned out to be a place that did falafels and little else. The falafels came out of the fryer into the baguette like bread with loads of herbs and a sort of
"the pink mosque""the pink mosque""the pink mosque"

it took some patience to wait for the room to clear for this photo
garlicky mayonnaise. Yummo as Rick Stein might say.

Additional photos below
Photos: 15, Displayed: 15


Masjed-e Nasir al-MolkMasjed-e Nasir al-Molk
Masjed-e Nasir al-Molk

the stained glassed prayer hall is to the right
Narenjestan - the orangeryNarenjestan - the orangery
Narenjestan - the orangery

lovely peaceful spot
Shah Cheragh shrineShah Cheragh shrine
Shah Cheragh shrine

complete with the brain frazzling nylon chador
supper at Cafe Naqashisupper at Cafe Naqashi
supper at Cafe Naqashi

never found out what this was called but they were a tasty local speciality

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