GR11 - Burguete to Isaba, 3 days, 160km done

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Thursday 21 July
Urrobi campsite near Burguete to wild camp just up from Hiriberri
19km
6:45am - 6:30pm with regular short breaks, 30min drink break at Orbara and 4hour siesta at Hiriberri

Having enjoyed our rest day and another good sleep (despite it being much busier the second night with a youth group having some sort of a disco near us) we set off sharpish to get back into Burguete and on the trail. Although still an incline, the trail was much steadier for the first half, gently climbing and meandering up and down through beautiful woodland. We also began to see rocky cliff edges and outcrops as we noticed the scenery beginning to change, and we caught up with a new hiker today! He is actually Spanish and doing part of the GR11 but, after trying and realising we would not understand each-other much our relationship became a mutal wave and short-worded conversation as we leap frogged eachother the rest of the day (next couple of days actually!)

Today also went through two small (tiny) villages both with an open bar/restaurant, which was nice for cold drinks and icecream. The second one in Hiriberri was particularly nice as the lady was very friendly, despite our limited Spanish, and it had a real welcoming local vibe as the nearby men all arrived for their siesta time, and the baker and butcher arrived honking horns for everyone to come and get what they needed from their delivery van. It also had a lovely shaded seating area where we spent a few hours trying to stay cool and resting. Only downside was there was a lot of flies! ‘Moscas’

It was also here that we briefly met another Spanish hiker and caught up with our Dutch friend, who, as it turns out, had met and was now walking with two other Dutch women. Then, as we continued to rest while they walked on, another Dutch girl appeared! Now later and slightly (ever so slightly) cooler, we chatted as we walked up the beginning of the hill together. She was heading for the very top but, knowing it was still a way and that it meant committing to passing the uncamp-able ridge line before being able to stop, as well as having to water load for that night and the next day (as there would be no more water points until the end of the next day) we opted for a flat spot before the incline increased and began to zigzag up into the woods.

And we were glad we did, with the last water point (cattle trough with pipe - edged with barb wire that had a fight with Paul as he tripped into it; luckily just a couple scratches easily cleaned with anti-septic) just down from us, a gorgeous view and now cooler air, we cooked, stretched, and looked at the trail days coming up, before easily settling to sleep.


Friday 22 July
Wild camp just up from Hiriberri to Ochagavia campsite
18km
7am - 1:30pm with regular short breaks, 30mins food break on ridge top, 20mins foot break before descent, and 20mins water break at Muskikda chapel

Opening the tent this morning gave a spectacular sight; a cloud covered valley so still and cool in motion. Looking around we then realised we too, were part of that cloud, as it whisped around and above us. It made for a darker start, but was light enough to walk by the time we had retraced briefly to top up with water (cue quiet Spanish guy passing us) and were ready to go. The steep incline zigzags up through the trees, with glimpses of gorgeous views of cloud cover increasing as we got higher and higher. Reaching the ridge, we were glad we didn’t attempt it last night, with rocks and roots everywhere it was a lot of concentration to avoid tripping. Finally out the other side, the landscape opened right up, showcasing the low cloud covering all the dips and valleys with hill and mountain tops peaking above.

Continuing on we rejoined the new Dutch girl who had just finished packing up from the night and walked within her again, only to then bump into the other three Dutch ladies! The rest of today ended up being a mix of walking with and without these guys as we varied paces and number of rest stops, as well as continuing the leapfrogging with quiet Spanish guy. Walking high, the views just kept giving today (catching our first real views of the upcoming Pyranese mountains! Gulp!) and there was a lovely cool breeze which really helped. Reaching a trail junction though, and passing an old bothy, the trail began to quickly descend and boy did it do just that. Down and down and down, very steeply at times, particularly after the cute chapel (Romanesque hermitage) making the feet ache.

Reaching Ochagavia at the bottom, we were met with cobble stones, a grand church with shiny chandelier, quaint houses with flowers everywhere and a pretty river. It also suddenly felt a lot busier, so we soon headed along to the campsite to clean off and set up camp; joined by all the Dutch and quiet Spanish guy, would you believe it ? Feeling fresher we nipped back into town and got a few foodie bits, bumping into the other couple again! Having been a few days since we saw them, we were all surprised and happy to catch up briefly, before they headed out to wild camp near by. A relaxed and social evening followed before settling quickly again to sleep.

Saturday 23 July
Ochagavia campsite to Isaba Hotel
21km
6:45 - 13:15 with regular short breaks, 20mins brunch break in woods and 40mins lunch at top of the descent

Today it happened! It actually finally happened! We were ready to go (just about) within an hour and a half (instead of our usual two hours) Check us out!; Maybe having an actual toilet, table and sink helped?! Setting off, we were ready for todays long steady climb. Well, it actually started out pretty steep and felt continuous initially, but, reaching a semi-top where it levelled a little, albeit continuing to climb gently, we soon warmed up and got into a flow. Although not as interesting as previous days, remaining mostly on forest road track surrounded by trees either side, we enjoyed the opportunity to not have to think too much and just plug in some music as we walked.

Reaching higher points with lower trees, did still give amazing views at times, and stopping at the top of the descent, we became fascinated by some very loud hissing crickets (failed to actually see an though). We then hit another steep and so so so so so so long descent all the way down to Isaba. Treating ourselves to a hotel room (expensive but not wanting to dry camp before/after Isaba, as, like yesterday and today, it would mean a fair amount of extra hiking and limited water sources) we were met by a very friendly guy who upgraded us to an apartment! Fancy I know! A little ponder around town and another shop (a bigger one needing food for 3-4days) we then chilled in our apartment, and were spoiled with a local festival orchestra and parade! Amazing! Let’s just hope the happy locals don’t stay too loud later tonight ?

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