GR11 - Elizondo to Burguete, 3days, 99km done

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5 - Sunday 17 July
Wild wooded camp 2km south of Elizondo to Collado Zaldegi hunting cabin
12km
7:30am - 1pm with 1.5hour break at Collado de Urballo

Waking early, it was a little spooky but cool to open the tent door and remember we were pitched in the woods with the sounds of insects and birds. It was beautiful though, to see the light change from this cool deep blue colour with silhouetted trees to a warm pink and orange as the sun started to rise. Noting a hiker already on the trail below pass us, we finished up breaky and got going around 7:30, spotting a fox run across a field in the distance.

The trail, expectedly, quickly began to climb, up and up, getting steeper and steeper, along stoney tracks and forest roads through shaded woods. It was also often very ferny (tick heaven) with some bits pretty overgrown, and spikey plants hiding underneath to catch your legs (lots of scratches on legs from this). Reaching the first hunting cabin Collado de Urballo, we appreciated the notes written all over the watertap informing us the handle was broken but the valve behind it worked to turn the water on and off; cue a hiker shower and clothes rinse! A Dutch mum & son joined us there briefly (thankfully after we’d washed) before moving on quickly as they were using accommodation so had a timeline to keep.

More refreshed but with the sun now getting hotter, we headed out again to get to the next hunting cabin. This section was higher along the ridge with less shade but amazing views. Spotting the cabin we detoured off trail slightly thinking we’d seen a path up through the woods rather then sticking to the hot road. It wasn’t long before we regretted this decision, as we lost the trail and got spiked and ferned again; never try and take a short cut at the end of your walk. Some moans and grumbles occurred as we found ourselves climbing again to re-reach the proper trail and eventually the hunting cabins at Collado Zaldegi. Water, shade, flat ground and we were happy again; Eating, napping, practicing Spanish, seeing a few other hikers pass, watching and hearing the huge ponies meander around, another hiker wash, cooking dinner, and we were in bed and asleep before you knew it.

6 - Monday 18 July
Collado Zaldegi to Albergue Sorogain (closed! So retracked back 1.5k up river to wild camp)
15km
6:30am-1pm with regular short breaks including 30mins just passed Urkiaga and 30mins sat outside the Albergue

Waking in the night, the wind had picked right up so we shut the outer tent doors and had a more restless night. We also planned to try and leave earlier today, so I think knowing this we were also more aware of the need to sleep which always makes it harder. Anyways, the 4:30 alarm soon went off and despite trying to be more efficient and we still took 2 hours to be ready to go. 6:30 was the deadline though and so we headed out, to another expected instant climb (I think this will be the regular pattern of the trip!)

Higher up on more exposed ridges again, we enjoyed another beautiful sunrise across magnificent views as it followed us up the hilltops, spot lighting all the sheep and ponies as we went. The wind was still strong, making a big difference to all the previous very still days we had had, and we began to see the large vultures soaring high above, as well as lots of shooting huts and old bunkers which we obviously had to stop and look at.

The trail then takes a sharp left and begins descending down into woods again, following wide forest tracks, all the way to Urkiaga (nothing here other then a road crossing, signs, a few bins, old bunkers and possibly a small hikers hut?) Having headed down, the trail was now only to go up again, thankfully staying under the shade of trees and along easy tracks. Reaching the top, the views open up briefly again, before descending once more, steeply in parts, down through forest until hitting a river (first water source we saw in this section). Following the rocky and winding trail along the river was fun, but noted it soon thinned and then dried out as we left the shelter of the trees and approached the road along to Alburge Sorogain.

Thinking of a cold beer and icecream we approached excitedly…to quickly be disappointed. It was shut; turns out Mondays is their weekly rest day. With no freely available water tap here, or knowingly near by, the sun now too hot for us, and a steep hill climb next, we didn’t want to continue on. Instead, we retraced back along the river until it flowed again, and, under the shade of the trees, found a peaceful siesta spot, with the plan to pitch up on a nearby flat spot later on. Having not seen anyone for a while, a young Swiss girl then appeared, and telling her there is no water source further down, she ended up sitting with us to chat and cook; she had walked the GR10 last year so was a good source of trail knowledge and hiking tips. Cowboy camping (no tent) for the night she found a flat spot just down the river from us and, after making a cattle protection barrier, having a river wash, doing our regular daily stretches, having some slight freaking out about bugs from Paul, we soon settled to sleep.

7 - Tuesday 19 July
River wild camp before Albergue Sorogain to Burguete official campsite at Urrobi
14km
7am-2pm with half hour rest stop at the top and 2hours rest and resupply in Burguete centre

Another early morning, we managed our regular morning routine 10mins quicker today! Check us out ? We were feeling quite tired and beginning to feel achey too, so with electrics running low and a possible thunderstorm storm tonight, we decided we’d look to stay in Burguete tonight rather then just pass through. Waving bye to the Swiss cowboy camper who said she’d overslept, we headed back along the river and began the steep climb up, and boy was it steep. Thinking we’d reached the top, we enjoyed the spectacular views again, with sea-like low lying cloud whipping up along the edges of the hills around us and, for the first time on this trip, spotting our first cloud in the sky; perhaps the weather is changing!

Hiking on, we soon realised we were not at the top, but had another two big climbs ahead of us. Although steep, and taking them very slow, zigzagging at points where possible, we did manage them without dying, so we’ll take that as a win for now, knowing this is just practice for the higher Pyrenees to come. The views always make it worth it too, and walking along the ridges, we saw more vultures swarming close above us which was cool. As we took a break at the actual highest point, just above the trail on a moundy bit, we spotted the Swiss girl pass us below (with her earphones in she obviously didn’t hear us call out) hiking quickly along the trail, and turning right to dive down into forest once more.

Having watched her go on, we soon followed in her footsteps, heading down along the still-very-well-marked trail, through woods, to another river (again, first real water source since the river at the Albergue; apart from a few still cattle troughs). The path becomes more exposed to the sun on and off now, as it joins dusty road tracks into Burguete. After checking out some of the hostels (all booked), we rested at a bar for food&drink, before picking up some resupplies at the small supermarket and enduring the 2km road walk down (the wrong way to the trail) to an official campsite, Urrobi.

A large site with plenty of space, walk-in availability, small shop, bar&restaurant, river to paddle in, and swimming pool we were happy with our decision to stay and in fact paid for two nights; treating ourselves to a whole rest day. Showering, clothes washing, charging electrics, checking routes, downloading maps, social catch ups, stretching, sleeping, listening to locals and trying to speak more Spanish, eating, drinking, swimming, and did I say showering?! Bliss.

(Oh, and that thunderstorm did come, albeit in the distance, it didn’t rain but was loud and we saw the lightening in the clouds; awesome but scary!)

8 - Wednesday 20 July
REST DAY at campsite
0km

☀️???‍♀️?? ????☕️

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