GR11 - Isaba to Candanchu, 3 days, 224km done

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Sunday 24 July
Isaba hotel to Zuriza camping
11km
7:15 - 11:20 with regular short breaks and 30min break at the Col d’Arguibiela

Walking out of Isaba, past some of the younger generation clearly still awake from the nights celebrations, we enjoyed a gentle climb along a wide path along the river before hitting a signpost. Here we had a decision to make: to go the much harder, longer and more technical route (old GR11) to Zuriza or the shorter and easier one (new official GR11). Knowing the temperature was meant to rocket up again today, and knowing we had plenty of harder days ahead, we chose the simpler and shorter route, which followed the river further and, surprisingly, past a beautiful waterfall spot; a perfect place for a swim if we hadn’t only really just got started.

Continuing on, up along the river, you then cross it and soon start to climb more intensely through woodland. We climbed up and up until suddenly you meet a car park and sign to say you’re crossing from Navarre into Aragon! Wow! We made it to the next area of the trail and pretty much 25% complete! Go us! Now in more open sun, we crossed the road and followed the trail along and down…and then all the way around the campsite on the road…to get to the actual entrance of it, to check in and pitch up; all before the midday heat began.

The campsite at Zuriza is in a great location, but was busy and hectic with everyone pitching anywhere & everywhere. It’s also not the cleanest of places with many water taps, toilets and lights not working, and the supermarket still very much closed for the foreseeable. However, the bar was open and, with nothing else around, clearly a popular place for hikers, youth groups and families.

It was a needed spot to stop for us too in todays heat, and with shade, napping, cold drinks, salty crisps, and later catching up with all the Dutch again, was perfecto.

Monday 25 July
Zuriza camping to wild camp at natural pool just below unmanned Bothy at Achar d’Aguas
17km
6:45 - 16:00 with lots of short breaks, 30mins at top of climb, 20mins at on descent down and 120mins at La Mina

After a slightly unsettled start to the night (a kid briefly making ghost noises and throwing pine cones at our tent) we did manage a good sleep and woke early, as usual, to get ready slowly. Unsure as to how far we’d get today, we ventured out, excited and nervous as we hit Alpine territory. Following the river gently up again, it wasn’t long before we noticed the change in trail with steeper gradients, rockier paths and paths through scree beginning to appear. We felt the air change as it got fresher and, perhaps weirdly, we also smelt the change and can confirm it’s nicer then the alpine-air car fresheners you can get!

After surviving and enjoying our first real taste of a more technical ascent, (and spotting our first marmot!) making it to the top at Cuello Petraficha and suddenly seeing the vastness of the mountains in front of us was an amazing feeling! We are here and we are doing it! Whooohooo! Enjoying the view with a break here, two of the Dutch overtook us, and, using them as guide points, we soon followed them down the steep but zigzagging descent all the way to La Mina; actually much more descent then we thought, stopping for another short break to rest the feet, before eventually making it down.

Shoes off and feet in the river, we enjoyed some shaded rocks to sit and rest for lunch; also to do some much needed water filtering and topping up. There’s obviously a popular pool bit just up the river too, noticing many locals taking a dip there. Feeling a little early to call it a day, and with the heat less intense today, we decided to follow in the Dutch’s footsteps again, and continue further on the trail (first time we’ve done more then the guidebooks section!) Keeping the river on our right, (you can go the other side to what looks more like road walking) the trail follows it along, with gentle ups and downs, small and barely flowing streams, little shade and past increasing amounts of cattle, until it brings you back to the river over a bridge. Here, the trail then begins to ascend, but is where, with the two Dutch we had caught up with, we decided to wild camp.

With lots of little, flat-ish, spots dotted between bushes and the river flowing nicely for water, it was a good place to camp. There was also a ’natural pool’ (small deep bit of the river) under the bridge which made the perfect place to to freshen up with a swim. We then noticed clouds getting stuck at the top of the mountains, and with the wind picking up, begin to flow over and down into our valley; such a powerful and beautiful sight, albeit a little scary. Thankfully, apart from the wind getting stronger, the evening remained peaceful, and with stretches done and dinner eaten, we actually got an earlier night.

Tuesday 26 July
Wild camp at natural pool just below unmanned Bothy at Achar d’Aguas to Candanchu (taking old GR11 route)
16.5km
6:45 - 14:00 with regular short breaks, 15mins at top of Collado before and 30mins at top of woodland La Callaversia

After a settled nights sleep (well, Paul got up twice to wee but said the sight of the stars was amazing so worth it) we woke to a much cooler morning. The wind still strong, we actually cooked from inside the tent (first time this trip) and packed bags as much as possible inside to avoid getting too cold outside. We were still ready in one of our quickest times though, and, looking at the trail climbing up into the grey foggy cloud, we actually put trousers and coats on (first time this trip!)

The first climb up to Achar d’Aguas warmed us up quickly, but, being inside the cloud we were also quickly covered in misty rain which kept us cool in the wind. As we looked back down, we were soon unable to see anything anymore. Looking foreword was a similar situation, hearing the cattle bells ring but only seeing slight shadows of them as we passed near by. Eerie but beautiful, we continued along the marshy flatland, only later realising there were huge mountains alongside us, as the sun made a brief appearance to show their peaks. The trail crosses a weak river and begins to climb again, as the misty rain and low foggy cloud continued to cover us, giving only brief glimpses of the immense mountain scenery surrounding us every now and then; at one moment displaying a stunning rainbow glistening over the valleys between mountains. It was an awesome and quite technical hike up, made even more special with some sights and sounds of the famous marmots and later an appearance from a chamois. Amazing.

Reaching the newish marker stuck on the side of a rock, signalling the now current GR11 route to Refugio de Lizara, we decided to change the plans (as previously discussed in earlier days with the Dutch) and take the old GR11 route straight to Candanchu; this in theory would give us an extra day back to use elsewhere. Turning left, our confidence was soon tested as the now green and yellow markers down to the lake ‘Ibon de Estanes’ seemed to quickly disappear. Spotting an old, half rubbed out, red and white marker, we ended up climbing (literally hoofing ourselves up and over) some boulders of rocks and wriggling along a thin trail now below the boulder rocks. Feeling a little sketchy we figured maybe this was why they changed the route, but then, finding a more substantial trail with the green and yellow markers back, we decided to continue with the plan.

Although rocky and along edges, twisting up and then down to the lake, the trail remained obvious; which was helpful with the foggy cloud remaining strong and preventing any view of the lake itself. Suddenly seeming to be surrounded with people, ghostly figures appearing out of the mist like a zombie movie, with many speaking French, we later realised taking this route meant we had passed into and out of France! Fancy that! Anyway, we soon turned off this popular wide track and began to side angle along grassy ridges and into woodland. It was here that we expected to go down to a river and then up into Candanchu but our map reading had gone wrong. We in fact, stayed very much up, crossed a dry vertical stream (low on water as had planned to refill here but thankfully not so sunny today and not too far off the end) and managed some boulder hoping and scree side angling.

Meandering back into some woodlands briefly, we then made it up and over into the ski town of Candanchu. What an immense day! Walking into the current ghost town, we found an open bar and enjoyed a cold drink and delicious pizza, for a Spanish timed late lunch. Our Dutch friends then joined us which was fun as we shared stories and images of the day before saying adios, as we went to check into a hotel (booked earlier today) to enjoy a rest day tomorrow, and they continued on to find a camping spot just after town.

Wednesday 27 July
Rest day in Candanchu
0km
Being given another random and free upgraded room from a basic small double to a double with a balcony felt amazing. Waking this morning with no alarm felt amazing and well needed. A full buffet breakfast was also amazing as well as the super friendly and helpful staff here at Hotel Tobazo. Being able to wash and dry clothes and charge electrics fully was amazing. Our mini trip up a ski lift to a lake for a tiny circular walk and lunch with a view (some small patches of snow seen on some peaks!) was amazing. What was not so amazing, was the weather report suggesting storms are coming in from tomorrow late morning, with rain and thunder and lightening risk particularly high overnight Thursday into Friday. With a high pass due on the next section, going above 2200m, we have, eventually, after much time trying to put the decision off and constantly rechecking many different weather reports, decided not to risk it and will stay here another night; we had gained that extra day to use when needed by taking the old direct route to Candanchu right?!

We’re also lucky to not really be time restricted, and well, another rest day can’t do any harm, especially in such a friendly hotel and chilled area. We enjoy the hiking a lot but also like to take our time and sight see on foot too, so, as the hotel guy has offered us to join him on his day off tomorrow to visit the capital Jaca, we’ve figured why not! Being low in a town with a local in rain and storm feels better then being high in a mountain. Hopefully the storms will pass enough for us to continue walking safely and confidently by Friday, but for now, we’ll just enjoy our time here and continue to check the weather.

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