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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 42.2581, -4.34649
This morning was a perfect example of why we don't understand people packing up at 5:30am, and waking everyone else with their clattering. Three of the six of us were packed out and gone by 6:00. Dave went down at 6:30 to retrieve laundry and they, along with a 1/2 dozen others, were in the albergue's cafe, waiting for it to open! All this to walk an hour in the dark.
After coffee at Albergue Santa Brigida, walked in pre-dawn light through rolling hills. We soon came upon the convent/hospital ruins of San Anton, a Middle Ages structure that is partially intact. We hope our photos show even a fraction of how impressive the place is.
We stopped for our 2nd coffee of the day at Castrojeriz. Another town with a Middle Ages church, but more impressive was the Roman ruins on the hill above the village. We paid the euro to tour the church. Like all of these churches, it was beautiful. We think the euro was for all of the museum type displays, which were all in Spanish, so we didn't get much out of it.
We had coffee from a bar/restaurant with outside tables across the street that
offered great views over the valley below. This was one of the prettiest walk-through towns with its ancient buildings, hand-paved streets and views of the surrounding countryside.
Shortly out of town we began a mile plus climb of about a 1,000 feet vertical; we made it to the top with only a picture break! At the top you could see 360 degrees for 25 miles.
We descended those same 1,000 feet. Into the Rio Pisuerga valley and passed from the Burgos provenance into Palencia. This stretch and into tomorrow we would be on sections of the old Roman road. The stone arched bridge over the Pisuerga dates to the 10th century.
We hiked onto Itero de la Vega and had a couple of beers with the last of our sandwich at bar/cafe Tachu. We got our credencials stamped there because they had a really cool stamp that had the Camino shell as the body of a guitar. Based on all the guitar posters on the walls, we're thinking Tachu may mean guitar?
We have learned a new term, rather than backpacking there is "slackpacking". These are all the people who have their packs transported to their next overnight. Based on our
own observation, talking to pilgrims who have done the Camino previously and to albergue staff, anywhere between 20 and 50% of today's pilgrims are slackpacking.
We now understand the appeal of the Camino and also understand the mushrooming number of pilgrims is partially driven by the fact more people are able to do it when not carrying a 20lb pack.
The scenery has remained pretty constant. The wheat fields have been harvested and waiting to be plowed under and are all a golden color. The only variation are the few unknown cash crops that are vibrant green, only because they are irrigated. The tilled areas still seem to be more rock than soil.
There are not many of us on the Camino as we entered Boadilla del Camino. Only a village of 124, without any amenities outside the albergues. We checked into En el Camino. The staff was very friendly and with the lawn, pool, and people lounging, it felt almost commune like. At 7 euro we had a six-person room in this 48 bed albergue. All is falling into routine: shower, hand wash laundry, relax with a beverage, look for tomorrow's albergue and work on the journal.
Following all of
that, we had the pilgrim meal for 10 euro at 7:00: squash soup, lentil soup, beef steak, roasted chicken, salad and always wine.
After a glass of wine within the courtyard and gathering laundry, we went to our room about 9:30 and the lights were out and, as quietly as possible, readied ourselves and climbed into bed.
Tot: 2.508s; Tpl: 0.048s; cc: 6; qc: 52; dbt: 0.0393s; 2; m:saturn w:www (184.108.40.206); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.4mb