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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 42.2583, -4.34647
The 30-bed dorm was maybe the noisiest yet with at least six to eight synchronized snorers! Neither of us slept past 2:00am. We have never had this happen before, but lights came on at 6:00! Actually, this was better than people sneaking around with their headlamps on and shining their lights in your face.
We packed up and went down to the kitchen for our yogurt, a peach and a breakfast bar.
We were on the Camino by 7:00, much too dark for our liking. It is difficult to find our Camino yellow arrows plus you miss the scenery, whether it be urban or countryside. Leaving Burgos we passed wide tree-lined boulevards and parks, but because of the darkness, we couldn't fully appreciate them.
On the edge of the city, we spotted a coffee place a block off the Camino and headed that way. A fellow pilgrim yelled, "Hey amigo, this way"; we yelled back "OK - coffee". We do take care of each other. It was the best coffee yet; 1st cup served with a smiley faced cookie and the 2nd with a small wedge of cake - plus a shot glass of OJ!
First village clear of Burgos was Rabe de
los Calzadas, where we had our worst cafe con leche - all leche and 2 euro, no other cup has ever been more than 1.20.
A long 8 kilometers to Hornillos del Camino. The landscape had turned flat and nothing but wheat. We stopped at a bar/cafe and had one of our sandwiches, (made last night), Cheetos, apple and a beer. Chatted with four young people from Denmark, Italy, Georgia, and DC (parents in Baltimore County). We ended up hiking with them, on and off the rest of the day.
We thought the last 8 kilometers was
long, but the next 11 were worse! Truly, the worst hiking experience was the hour of swarming bugs. They were constantly in our face and the only relief was when we crested the ridge and the wind picked up.
No real break from the wheat field scenery and our overnight town would never appear, even though the signs said 2 kilometers, 1 kilometer, and 1/2 kilometer. Hontanas was down in a deep valley and you couldn't see it until we were in it.
The 30 kilometer hike was worth it because Albergue Santa Brigida was fantastic. The most welcoming couple run the place. They had done the Camino
years earlier and decided that opening an albergue would be much better than the hustle and bustle jobs they left behind. They did every thing possible to make their home our home - by starting out saying, "go shower, clean up, relax before worrying about registering." We did all of that and did our hand washed laundry.
Landon and Cecelia waked by while we were sitting having a glass of wine so we invited them for the pilgrim meal at Santa Brigida. Because the registered guests would have filled the dining room, the four of us had dinner in the cafe. It was was the same meal, just not in the main dining room.
Sandra, our proprietress, introduced
a local legend and his unique style of
drinking from the porron (pouring directly from a long necked flask to your mouth, without touching your lips). We both did it, but were provided a bib, which proved unnecessary!
After enjoying a great meal and good conversation, we were ready to call it a day. Before heading up to bed we asked the proprietor/chef, Hernan, if he could call ahead and make a reservation for albergue En el Camino in Boadilla del Camino. He made the call for
four of us (Landon & Cecelia). We were set but must be there by 3:00pm or all bets were off. Too much pressure!
Tot: 2.47s; Tpl: 0.047s; cc: 7; qc: 53; dbt: 0.0379s; 2; m:saturn w:www (220.127.116.11); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.4mb