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Published: October 18th 2016
This is just 1/2 of my room. Dorm A, Bed18, that was me!
Sarria is tomorrow, Triacastela is not an option on this site.
The walking today was mainly on natural paths and was quite steep both ways, up and down. We passed though early morning oak forests before climbing into the high country and being treated to some of the most amazing country scenes you will see anywhere. The views across Spain and deep into the valleys were breathtaking ( or was that just the walk up the hills?).
We stopped for coffee at a small hamlet before beginning the slow steep descent into the valley, and Triacastela. You pass through many small hamlets and farms and witness the daily lives of the inhabitants; milking cows, mucking out sheds, or just tending to other farm work. Large dogs are always on the scene but are oblivious to anyone but their master, or they are asleep.
I was hopefully anticipating passing through one hamlet where, last time, an old lady in a headscarf offered sugar sprinkled pancakes as you passed. She was there, and I gave her a Euro as, while not compulsory, she hints at it as you leave. Two young girls walked away with one in each hand and
You miss the best parts if you don't look back sometimes. A bit of philosophy for you; free!
offered nothing. Maybe they don't realise that 'Gracias!' doesn't buy more ingredients to feed future pilgrims. Maybe they thought she was subsidised by Tourism Spain.
Some of the paths today were cut deep into hillsides or had high stone walls covered in moss, ferns and ivy. They were covered in by chestnut trees and it made the way really pleasant with the moist damp smell of the foliage and trees. These paths are traditionally cow paths so it's important to watch where you tread. It was a lovely day to walk and now I might check out the village.
The rest of the walk was downhill and pretty hard on your feet. I stopped to change socks at about 3kms to go as my heals were feeling it. Injuries usually occurr near the end of a day and it's not worth thinking, ' I'm nearly there, it will be OK.'
A little bit on albergues. Tonight we are in the same albergue as last time; 8 people in the room, our own bathroom, sheet and pillow case, and a warm blanket. Last night it was about 40 to a room, the limited facilities are shared by 110
people, and as stated previously , no shower doors, hooks, nothin'! So your clothes and towel were out in another area, nowhere near your shower.
There was little space in the room for your gear so it just hung everywhere, like the showers, know what I mean, or was on the floor. I went to bed at about 8.30 and was immediately assaulted by the machine gun fire of flatulence coming from an uninhibited young man in a nearby bed. And I'm still calling this a holiday! As the night goes on the room fills and the range of nationalities, genders, and dietary preferences takes on a life of its own. I went to the gents at about 5 in the morning, and upon re entering our room, was overcome by the warm moist air that I was living in ( and contributing to in my own small way.). I was on the top bunk, and this air hangs like a low toxic cloud over the ceiling area; I don't think you fall asleep as much as slip into a coma. That's albergue living for you. Just a taste!
Well, I'll try and put up a few pics
but I'm imposing a limit of 10 as I don't self censor enough and the Internet can be slow. Also if you leave a comment and I don't reply , thanks all the same, they're appreciated. Cheers
I'm back. Just had a shower with a door. Luxury.
Wandered around town and this is a very lovely village.
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